I am doing a y8 block/ z6 head turbo build in my 92 vx hatch. It will have vitara pistons and eagle rods. Also using an ACL rod and main bearing kit to replace the old stuff. My question is... Will putting all this new stuff around my old crank wear the crank out? Or can it hold the 12-15lbs I'm shooting for? I won't lie, I'm going to beat this car like Chris Brown beat Rhianna *** so be honest with me. What options do I have? What will happen to this crank? Can I strengthen it somehow? Or don't even bother cause it's cool like that? Thanks in advance!

 

That many lbs of boost and power the stock crank should hold the power no problem. I ran mine at 15 lbs @ 236. But if I were you I would use a stock Z6 crank because it has more oiling holes (correct me if Im wrong).

 

Oh I honestly don't know. I have a d15b2 block, would it be better to just run that block with a z6 head? Or go find a z6 crank and throw it in the y8 block?

 

Wait, you're talking about putting a B2 crank in a Y8 block, with Vitara hardware that we can only assume is made for the Y8? Not all D series cranks are made the same, and destroking a Vitara setup that will already have lowered compression is...What the ****? Are you researching things, or just doing what a buddy told you to do one night while you were at the bar?

 

He has a y8 block and a d15b2 block. Hes asking if its better to use the z6 head on a b2 block or the y8 block.

I dont know much about d series but it sounds like the y8 block with a z6 crank and z6 head would be the most ideal combination in this case

 

He started off saying he would be using a Y8 block, Z6 head, and Vitara/Eagle, and was asking about "[his] old crank". Then he started talking about just putting the Z6 head on the B2. Logical thinking would say that his old crank is from a B2.

The ideal setup would just be a Z6. Barring that, a Y8 with Z6 internals works, too. Putting a B2 crank anywhere in the picture is just...kind of dumb. I'm trying to be nice.

 

You all are focusing on the wrong aspects anyways... He asked if the crankshaft will hold 15 psi. He also asked if "the new stuff will wear out the old stuff". Screw the compression and Mix n' Match Engine Kit from the Lunchables section here guys, the OP needs to learn the basics before we can get into what parts work where.

 

I'm sorry, the concept of destroking a setup with an already lowered compression was just too stupid for me to ignore. Stock cranks have been pushed into the four digits of power - 15 PSI through any turbo won't do a damn thing to it, if it's healthy.

 

stock honda cranks have taken over 1000whp... I think you will be fine. correct me if I'm wrong but I'm pretty sure speedfactory's car still has a factory ls or b20 crank in it.

 

I had heard that. I've also heard of more than a handful of other actual, trailer-only, race cars using stock cranks all throughout the Honda lineup. D, B, K, J, C, it doesn't seem to matter as long as it's properly balanced, and properly spec'd when it's installed. I looked into it when I was first starting my build, eyeballing a couple aftermarket cranks, and the few specific companies I looked at, race teams were reporting breaking the aftermarket cranks before they broke the OEM cranks.

For a mild build, a stock crank is absolutely fine. For a moderate to heavy build, a stock crank that's been knifed and lightened by a competent machine shop is just fine. I just can't take anyone who spends $1500 on an aftermarket Honda crank seriously.

 

The problem with the y8 crank is the oiling design and/or the oil pump. Sooner or later they all seem to kill a bearing.

My stock y8 fell victim to spinning a bearing (every single one actually) for no real reason. Cranked the car and drove 5 miles until the oil pressure suddenly dropped to zero. Instantly started knocking like I was beating the motor with a hammer and wouldn't run with the clutch depressed. Said **** it and drove it home... Even spun the cam in the head.

Either find a z6 block PR put a z6 crank/pump in the y8 block. You'll lose the dipstick without a y8 pump so you'd have to drill the block in the usual spot for a z6 dipstick.

 

First off I can do without the sarcasm. Secondly thank you for the serious input to those who read my post correctly. I've heard of y8's giving problems so that's why I suggested using the b2 block instead. I never implied that I will be trying to use a b2 crank in the y8 block. I was trying to use what I already had (b2 block) and not have to search for a z6 crank to modify the y8 block. Seems like a pain in the *** having to change literally everything in it that's all. With all that being said, I'll just do a full z6 setup and save myself from a world of pain. Seriously thank you for the guidance. Any other pointers? I haven't finished my lunchables.

 

IIRC the d15b2 not only has a different stroke but a different deck height as well. Which means your current parts wouldn't be anywhere close to working with that crank.

If you need any y8 parts let me know, I have everything from axles to the intake manifold lol.

 

Built bottom end/head - Z6

Save yourself the headache and just buy this - its ready to drop in

 

Thanks want boost but I already have complete bottom end with axles and tranny. Just need piston rings. I think I'll just turbo the z6 I have in the coupe and run the 15lbs on my dd. Thank you for all the suggestions I really appreciate them. On another note... Can I put all that in myself at my house? Or would a machine shop have to come into play at some point? Mainly talking about reinstalling the crank after replacing the main bearing....

 

You could do nearly all of it yourself, but there are certain things you would be better off trusting a machine shop for, if you've never done it before, especially if you want a modicum of reliability out of the engine. Really, the only thing that it wouldn't be feasible for you to do yourself, and that's cleaning the block. Have a professional do a hydrosonic cleaning for you. Once you're past that, you could buy the hardware to Hone it yourself, but it'll probably be cheaper to have a shop do it. Same applies for checking clearances for bearings - the tools are expensive, paying a shop to spec it out isn't.

 

Specing out bearings isnt hard at all. Get the block codes, order one pair of oem of the thinnest and thickest your block calls for, then go to town with plastigauge. If the thinnest your codes call for is too thick, step up one color, if the thickest isnt enough, step down one size.

You might end up spending a little more but its worth it to get all the clearance spot on

 

There's the DIY way, and then there's the right way. The DIY way isn't necessarily wrong, but it also isn't exactly right, either. Using the proper tools, 2+2=4. Using stamped codes and plastigauge, 2+2 might equal 4, or it might equal 4.00000000001, or it might equal 3.9999999999. When I'm building something that I expect to last 150k+ miles, spin past the OEM rev limiter, and make three times the original rated power, 2+2 had damn well better equal 4.

 

A dial bore indicator should be used first. Then the gap desired is determined based on engine build purpose. This is factored into measurements and the result is selecting the bearings with the proper thickness to achieve your clearance number. After you get the bearings you then plastigauge to verify the clearance is as desired with proper crush in place from proper clamping be it torqued or stretched install method.

 

Yep, that's the rough summation of the 2+2=4 method.

 

Well played my man. I am definitely looking for 4.... Also this would be my first time doing that and I'd like the car to last. I'm obviously a novice, usually I find out through trial and error if I did something correctly. If it don't blow up I'm like yay. But spending all this money just getting parts together is enough of a challenge. I honestly thought if it bolted out I could bolt it back in. Plastiguage? No clue what that is which tells me a shop visit is in order.

So... I'm thinking I just buy an ACL bearing kit, eagle rods, and vitara pistons, and go to a shop like put all this in and make it work. Considering it'd be just as much if not more (through error) to DIY. Correct me if I'm wrong. If not, boom there goes the dynamite, thank you gentleman. You are far too kind and I truly appreciate and envy your knowledge.

 

Typically any quality, reputable shop can easily assemble a motor that will last. Most competent shops will have some form of warranty on a motor build. If they aren't installing and tuning the motor then the minimum (and all you'll get) is a warranty saying the motor won't be DOA and will crank the first time.

Anymore of a warranty will require them doing the swap and all subsequent work. The way to spot a good shop is if they offer a startup warranty, if they don't, keep looking.

Also try to avoid a car shop, look for a machine shop that builds motors. 9 times out of 10 all a car shop will do is send the parts to a machine shop and have the motor assembled. All the shop does is deliver and pickup the motor and charge you a hefty premium over the labor costs.

A few shops will do assembly on their own while having a machine shop do the machine work only.

Be forewarned that any decent shop will have a labor rate of roughly 80-130 dollars PER HOUR. Some cost less, some cost more, either way having a professional assemble a motor isn't cheap.

However if you aren't familiar with how to assemble a motor and the steps involved and you don't have the proper tools then let the pros do it. Trying it on your own can easily cost double if you make a mistake and improperly install and/or damage parts.