Hi,

I read a few posts on this site about a similar problem.
Here is the car:
Honda Civic LX 1995. Purchased in California (CA emission compliant)
155 000 miles. Overall, great condition.
ECU 37820-P06-A52

Here are the problems:
car cranks (starter turns and engine)
the main relay does not click a second time (and possibly a third time)
I replaced the main relay with a new one.
There is no fire on the plugs.
With the ignition on (II) and the brake pedal depressed, I cannot shift from park to any other position (the cylinder to unlock does not activate). I used a key to unlock it manually.

Here are the tests I conducted:
brand new distributor installed.
brand new main relay installed.
Checked all fuses under hood, all fuses under dashboard.
Removed, cleaned, and tightened the ground on thermostat (it was not corroded at all)
Checked grounds on ECU (A23, A24, A26, B1) with a light test. All OK.
Checked power on ECU D1 (Backup) and got 12.8 Volts and continuity on wire, A25 with key ignition on (II) and got 12.1 Volts.
Checked power on ECU D2 (Brake switch) and got 12.1 Volts, and a few others (I do not have sheet with me)... On one I got 6 Volts.
I tested tension on Throttle Position Sensor. I do not get 5 Volts. (no power on all three positions (0.35 Volts on one pin)
I tested tension on MAP Sensor. something weird happened there.
At first, there were no power (0,35 Volts on two pins). Then, I heard a click while the wires were out the MAP Sensor but could not locate its origin. I then tested 5 Volts on two of the three wires of the MAP sensor. I put the wires back on. I tested TPS again (no voltage). Unplugged MAP and tested it again (no voltage). I did not measure voltage on MAP afterward (removed neutral from battery and back later on, tried to start, tested a few more thing on ECU, ...) tested back MAP connectors a few times, no voltage.

That is where I am at.
I suspect ECU to be faulty (Like I did with distributor and main relay ! )
On possibly a sensor or switch (ignition, A/T Position, etc.)

Any advise anyone?
I am ready to go to te next step but do not know where.

Daniel

 

Also, the Check Engine Light (CEL) does not turn off with key on (II).

 

If the CE light does not go off and the fuel pump does not prime, it could be the ECU. To test, leave the key in the ACC position and go have a cup of coffee. Come back to it in 10-15 minutes and if the CE light is off and you can start the car, it's the ECU.

PM me if you need to get it fixed

 

No fuel and no spark?

 

Did you check the icm output from the ecu? Its a ground signal to the icm. Check that wire

 

Thanks to all. I will check those tomorrow or the next day and come back with the results.

 

One other thing.
I tried to get a code by jumping the two pins on the 2-pin connector on the passenger side. Since the CEL on constantly on, il does not blink. The SRS light flashes steady (not long nor short) as long as the ignition is on (II) and the connector jumped.
There is also a 3-pin connector next to the 2-pin connector...

 

7rrivera7,
I let the ignition switch on (II) for over 15 minutes, the CEL stayed on, the car did not start.
I still suspect the ECU to be bad at this point...

 

turbohatch96y7,
I tested the black/yellow wire to the ICM, there were 12 V on (II), and at start (III).
I tested pin A21 with A26 on ECU, I got 5 volts.
I tested pin D19 (VCC1-Sensor Voltage for MAP) with D21 (SG1-Sensor Ground): no voltage (0.337 V) which is the same I measured on the connector of the MAP sensor.
I tested pin D20 (VCC2-Sensor Voltage for TPS) with D22 (SG2-Sensor Ground): no voltage (0.33 V) which is the same I measured on the connector of the TPS sensor.

 

Op, does your car have anti-theft? If so i would check that.... usually can b reset by simply locking and unlocking drivers door.... see manual....

 

I mean locking and unlocking using key

 

Hello everyone,

I replaced the ECU (I was lucky to find a used one with the exact same model number because I am in Canada and the ECU is from USA).
The engine light turned off after the fuel pump primed, the car started and ran with no problems. I was able to bring the car to neutral with the ignition key on (II) and the brake pedal pressed. Basically, back to normal.

Here is my concern. I was told an ECU rarely goes bad unless there is a surge or a short somewhere. The faulty ECU was visually in excellent condition.

Should I look further for a short of some kind?

Here is an hypothesis: I replaced the distributor with a new one as a first step. Could have the old distributor gone bad and burned the ECU? I would have then solved the source of the problem without knowing it. I don't dare test it...
Could it be possible?
Or could an ECU go bad for no apparent reason?

Thank you all for your answers.

 

if you're getting a solid CEL that sounds like an ECU issue to me, esp if you're not getting TPS voltage and you've checked all your power and grounds at the ECU.

EDIT: hmm i should prob read rest of the thread first lol. meh, it's not common, but ECUs go bad. ever have a passenger side water leak?