Hi

I've recently purchased a 1992 Honda Del Sol S, D15 non Vtec with auto trans, 150k miles. It starts and run just fine the first week I've owned it, but after that its having starting problems. This occurs randomly, cold or hot, usually sitting for a few hours or longer.

Problem :
When trying to start the car from sitting for a few hours or longer the following things happens...
1) Car starts up on first try and runs fine
2) Car turns over once and dies instantly
3) Car turns over 3-4 times then dies
4) Car struggles a bit but starts then dies about 10 seconds later

When the car has trouble starting, it usually takes 4 to 10 tries and it will eventually starts and run. I've never been stranded... knock on wood.

The following items has been replaced:
Main relay
Fuel filter
Air filter
Spark plugs
Spark plugs wires

Any inputs on how to solve this is greatly appreciated...

 

Does the fuel pump prime when you put the key to On(ll)? If it does or doesn't you should check the fuel pressure. I'm having sorta the same problem with my sol. I been told it's the fuel pump or a clogged line. Or maybe replace the rotor in the distributor and the cap, if it's been a while and you don't know who replaced it last. Hope you solve it, and keep us posted!

 

Yes, I can hear the fuel pump priming when the key is switched to the on position. Guy at Autozone suggested rotors, so I will try that next.

 

Wow, noticing I have the exact same problem! Yeah try replacing the rotor, I replaced mine but it was from autozone, didnt stop the problem. You should go oem on the rotor. And maybe even give it a compression test. But easiest first right? Try cleaning out the IACV located behind the throttle body, I also hear ignitor in the distributor can cause this when it's hot and if your tach jumps around sometimes. Hope this helps ya man!

 

Yep, my tach jumps around like its goin crazy when I have the key in the on position, engine not running. Whats that all about? lol

 

Hope your not trolling? I don't get how a tach can jump when not even on the crank position. But I know if it does that while driving its the ignitor.

 

You have an electrical interference issue if you have your tachometer jumping around.

 

Not trolling one bit.
My tach needle does that randomly, whether the engine is running or not.
I've still hasn't got around to fixing this yet, been busy. I'll have time this week to tinker around.

Someone suggested just replacing the whole distributor with one that's made in China, its supposed to be really cheap, but I don't like China made anything...

 

I have the same exact problem with my d15b vtec except it does not shut off. It starts fine the first time but once the motor warms up it takes 10-15 minutes to restart and once it finally does it runs like crap for a second then idles at 3000rpm. I replaced the dizzy and it only got worse. I feel like I've run out of options

 

I wouldnt suggest to replace the dizzy, just yet. Especially not a china made one! Get one from the junkyard if you need one. I don't get it, your main problem in the first post is a crank no start problem. The tach jumping around while not on is something totally different bro. Thats got to be electrical. I think your crank no start problem if anything it's the igniton coil or ignitor in the dizzy with your symptoms. No need to replace the whole thing, just pull one that doesn't look fried, bent or corroded from the junkyard.

 

I went to pick up a couple of tools today, spark tester and a circuit tester. Was gonna tackle this thing today thinking one of the 3 things needs replacing such as coil packs, caps, or rotors.

I put the key in the ignition and turn it, and it starts. So if everything is working, there's really no way to test what is bad?

It was hot outside, about 80 degrees, so I'm thinking it has a problem starting cold, usually when I get off work in the morning at 5 AM. It takes about 8 to 10 tries to get it to start when cold.

 

Check your grounds, then check your connectors to the distributor, then pull the distributor cap and check for oil seeping to the distributor body via the shaft seal. Also shine a light into the distributor body to see if there's excessive corrosion on the internals.Keep an eye out for internal damage to the wiring, sensors, rotors, shaft..and see if there is any debris floating around in there. In your connectors, make sure none of the pins have unseated, and check that there is no moisture/foreign liquid inside, no debris/corrosion, and no damage to the connector body/pins. Also see if you can use/borrow a known good ecu of the same model to test for any non-code throwing electrical short/error/****-up.


^^Start there, and good luck.

 

What this guy said ^^ And

Sloppy rpm gauges are usually caused by the ignition coil, inside the distributor. It may be as simple as the coil needing packed with "di electric grease" Although thats unlikely if it happens with the car off... Unless your car vibrates when its off... New coils are rather pricey and you could replace it with an external coil for about the same price.

I currently have a MSD Blaster SS external coil waiting to replace my stock coil, its kit comes with new rotor and distributor cap as-well so just something to keep in mind. About 80$ altogether.

Secondly when it comes to the car dieing. I second the motion to check the grounds. I had a similar problem with my 93 Del Sol Si. Sanded up all the grounds, added di electric grease to prevent new corrosion, cleaned up my battery and it hasn't happened since.


Adjust your fast idle screw if it idles that high all the time. If its just at start up Del Sols will idle at a higher RPM while warming up. Once the car is satisfied the idle will drop.

As an example in my 93 Del Sol Si when i first start it it idles around 2700rpm, after a few minutes it will drop to about 1200. Its normal