As a newbie I think one of the best things I can do for the forums is contribute. So here's my little write up on diagnosing a window regulator problem.

My 1996 Honda Accord LX had an interesting little issue with the Front Driver's side power window. The window would roll up and down, however about 2/3rds of the way up it would slip out of the run channel. In order to use the window I'd have to press the glass in one direction while it was rolling up to keep it in the channel / on track. I also noticed that went I put the window all the way down, it would make a thunk / thud noise when it fully rolled down. As my window is a giant piece of glass, well, that concerned me.

In order of operation I tried the following first to eliminate the cheap fixes such as :
- Inspect window sashes (metal guide in door on either side of glass) for bends.
- Inspect for bunching, clean and lube the window run channel
- Inspect for damage, replace and tighten window regulator bolts
- Check window glass mount for adhesive failure between glass and mount.

Inspecting window sashes :
I removed the door panel / door card and looked in on either side and checked the metal sleeves that the window sits in. One was bent on my door so I taped the glass in the proper position and took a flat heat and rubber hammer to it. Even after some reforming the sash did not effect the problem in any way.


Inspecting the window run channel :
I rolled the window down all the way and took several cotton swabs (Q-tips) and sprayed them with silicone lube. Using a flat head screw driver I opened the run channel slightly to slide the cotton swab in until it hit the edge of the run channel. Guiding the swab up and down one piece of the channel at a time I didn't feel any blockage, debris or anything out of the ordinary. If you find any debris, remove it, do the entire run channel and try to operate your window. If this works for you, you're lucky.

Take note of any bunching, if the rubber gets bunched up it could catch while rolling up or down and slip out. Bunching would feel like a little bump in the run channel if you're checking it with a swab. If you feel a bump and no debris comes out, might be time to replace the run channel or at the very least remove and re-seat it. A junk yard will sell you one for $4, new they're $40+ so make your own decisions on that.


Inspecting regulator bolts :
Dead simple, remove the door panel / door card and locate the 4 bolts for the regulator itself. Check them for damage, tightness, and so on.


Checking the Glass Mount :
In my time on Youtube researching possible causes I had heard talk about making sure the mount on the glass was glued securely. As my window could be rocked side to side (towards the front and back of car) I figured maybe the glue on the mount went or the mount itself was off, bent or broken.

I found the easiest way to check the mount was to roll the window up and put tape on it to hold it in place. I then unbolted the mount and reached in the door and tried to wiggle the mount on the glass. The mount wouldn't sway, meaning it wasn't the mount attached to the glass itself.


My diagnosis :
Out of curiosity I then tried to wiggle the mount from the regulator bar with the glass mount detached from the regulator and it gave me a little slack. So taking a leap of faith I bought a $44 regulator off of eBay from a verified seller. After replacing the regulator, the window would go up and down flawlessly. The thunk / thud noise that occurred while rolling the window down has also stopped.

After thoughts...
So just because your window doesn't stay in the window run channel doesn't mean it's solely the fault of the run channel. If you clean and lube it and the window still acts like mine, go ahead and save yourself the time and just replace the regulator provided the door isn't bent or something that would effect the regulator placement. I tried to outline every single problem and simple fix so take it from me, if that regulator mount wiggles - replace the darn thing.

 

Dear Experts,

I'll add some more for any other poor soul.

I've had some recurring problems with my window too.
You can see some posts I've done here:

Last year:
https://honda-tech.com/honda-accord-...track-3222583/

And this year:
Correct procedure to change 96 Accord front window sash/run channel? - Honda-Tech


Last year, my driver's window came out of the track at the rear,
near the passenger door. I fixed it, and it worked fine.

Until this year, when the window began to come out of
its track near the side view mirror. And tried to
compress the rubber track as it went up. Not again.

From the junkyard, I got a rubber track, and changed that.
But now, the window did not seal completely at the front,
near the windshield. You could see a gap between the window
and the lip of the rubber track. Sigh.

I took the car to an autobody shop, and asked them to
do the final adjustments. But even after they worked on it,
there was still the gap. Sigh.

I figured what happened, was that some of the parts had stretched
or deformed. Sheet steel. Cables. Slow constant pressure.
I've heard of this before.


Back at the junkyard, I got some more parts from one car that looked good:
Window
Rubber run channel/weatherstripping (the the window rolls up into)
Rear metal sash/run channel (metal parts that the rubber channel is inserted into).

and a new Dorman window regulator (on warranty)


And changed them all. Now it seems to be working fine again.
Window goes correctly into the rubber run channel.


Now here are the secrets to make it all work correctly.

1) when you install the rubber run channel, do like Eric the Car guy,
and use silicone on the back and front (see his Youtube video about
changing the rubber run channels).


2) After installing everything, at first, DO NOT tighten
up all the bolts.

If you look, you will notice that there is room for play,
where exactly you can tighten the bolts. The window can move
slightly, and the regulator can move slightly.

Turn the bolts till it they start to be tight,
then back off a 1/4 or 1/2 turn to allow some movement.


There are six bolts to be concerned about. The four bolts for
the regulator (2 top and 2 bottom). And the two bolts to hold
the window. (You could even be concerned about the
bottom bolt for the rear sash channel.)


With the bolts still loose, roll the window up into the rubber run channel.
Then lower it all the way. And repeat a few times.

If all the parts are installed right, the window should
seat itself correctly.

Roll the window up again, as much as the regulator will allow,
and tighten all the bolts.


It worked for me. So far, so good.
Hopefully, this will be the last time I'll fix it.