I have done a lot of reading and still cant quite find an answer.

The car is a 00 dx hatch w/d15z. It has the y7 intake and y7 obd2b harness (yes I know Im missing a crank fluctuation sensor . . for all intents and purposes the block doesn't matter. . . wiring, intake/exhaust and ecu are y7)

The check engine light is always on solid. Wont blink when I jump the service connector. My scanner cant pull codes out of it.

I changed the wiring harness 2 weeks ago and the problem came with the harness.

When I first plugged in the ecu after changing the harness the car wouldn't start. I tried a couple other ecu's (p2p and p28 w/ obd2b - 1 harness same thing) It seemed that the ecu wasn't getting power.

I checked all the fuses, tried several main relays. . . still the same issue.

I found a similar problem sort of while researching . . . the guy ran positive power to the yellow/black wire on the ecu.. The car finally started right up.

I tried positive power to both yellow/black wires at the same time the car wouldn't start again . .. It only starts when you have + power to EITHER of the wires but not together.

The car runs perfectly fine with + power to the ecu.

I need to do an Emissions test asap but its not gonna pass if I cant get codes out or get the light off, or pull codes with a scanner.

Anyone seen this before or point me in a direction to do some more testing.

Any help is much appreciated.

if I can provide more information please ask.

Thanks

 

Have you tried pulling the codes via the paper clip/jumper method? And what ECU are you using to try to scan?

 

 

the engine light wont blink. I have tried jumping the service connector, solid light. I have tried a obd2 scanner . . wont connect. I have tries 5 different ECU's 2 x p2e, 2 x p2p, 1 p28 with obd2b-obd1 harness. the car runs perfectly fine with + power running to one or the other of the yellow/black ecu power wires (all ecu's run the car). The main relay wont fire the fuel pump or start with out + power to one or the other of those wires . .

would something else not be getting power to cause this?

I have tried several main relays, checked EVERY fuse multiple times

 

I have been over the harness from one end to the other checking connections. I have had the harness out of the car several times checking continuity of the wires . . . .

 

I have even tried a second y7 harness !!!!

 

Could the problem be in the OBD2B -> OBD1 Harness? A missing connection or something?

Seems you have thoroughly checked the OEM harness' but what about your aftermarket conversion harness?

 

I AM NOT using an aftermarket harness. I said I have tried one with an obd1 ecu and I still have the same problems.

IT IS CURRENTLY USING A OBD2B y7 INTAKE, A 0BD2B D16Y7 WIRE HARNESS AND A OBD2B Y7 (P2E) ECU. The car is a 2000 HONDA CIVIC DX - North American model

I have no voltage to the ECU on the stock harness. . . . .i have to run my own positive wire . . .what else requires + voltage from the harness . . i know something else isn't getting powered . .. what is it.

 

i have pretty much returned it to stock for the E test. i have never modified or altered the in car harness. its a stock Y7 . . .just a different block . . and the block wouldn't be affecting the wiring. . .

 

As simple as it may seem, try taking a bulb from another known good spot on the cluster and swap them. I recently swapped out most of my cluster's incandescent bulbs to red LEDs, but for some reason when I did the check engine light, the brights, and the turn signals, the check engine light would always stay on, and the other 3 would never turn on. I put back in the incandescent bulbs and they worked fine. It might not fix you problem, but the bulbs seem pretty picky, and at least it would rule one more thing out.

 

Your all caps shouting is absolutely unnecessary and ends here. If you cannot control yourself, then don't create threads in tech forums.