Ok so this is normally a really easy answer... But here is what I am working with and what is not normal about the situation.

I am working with a 95 Civic Ex MT D16z6.

Symptoms are:

The exhaust smells like fuel once it's warm.

The car will run really rough on start up after the motor is warm but will clear up by the time I have backed out of the parking spot.

I have noticed that there are some days where the car is the normal power expected from a D16z6 with 130,00 and others it is just a dog and doesn't want to get out from under its self until it gets to Vtec then it will move.

Also it seems as though the car is revving out to the proper RPM by the sound of the motor and pull but the rev limit kicks in at 6500 according to the dash.

Parts that have been replaced

Cap/Rotor/Plugs/Wires

New Denso 02 sensor

FPR

New Cone Filter

Synthetic Oil Change

I set the timing to what the Honda manual called for when doing my timing belt and water pump so unless it has magically changed without the distributor moving then it should be correct and the problems where there before doing the timing any ways.

I just don't know weather to start with the MAP CPS or Distributor I was kind of leaning to the Distributor but that is like a $250 part and I think I have a D Series TB laying around here some where that I could take the CPS and MAP off of and see if that makes a difference. If not a D Series then I know I have a F22 and a couple H22 TB's around here would the sensors work off of those? Any help is very much appreciated.

 

I forgot to mention there are no check engine lights and the light does work

 

Also the Fuel filter was replaced and there have been a couple different good fuel system cleaners run through the car in the 9 months I have had it.

 

Compression test results?

 

If I remember correctly it was at around 150-160 across the board but it has been probably 4 or 5 months since I did it but there were no cylinders that were low they were all right around the same #'s.

 

Possibly an injector is stuck open.

 

How would I tell if one is stuck open and can that be fixed by cleaning or would that require a replacement?

 

Bump

 

You could try doing a resistance check on all four injectors and see if one of the injectors differs greatly from the other 3. If all of them are right around the same resistance between say 12-15 ohms, then it would appear to not be stuck open. I believe the injectors are a "Normally Closed" type of electrical mechanical device.

If one of the injectors has a significant variance of resistance to the others, that would be your faulty injector.

 

I'm going to test the injectors tomorrow if they pass the test where should I start next?

 

sensors and computer

 

Can you be any more vague? What sensors?

I would suggest a noid light test to verify proper signalling to the injectors would be the next step.

I'm assuming the car still runs fine and idles fine just smells of gas? If it's running a little rough, I'd pull a current compression test to rule out broken ring or cracked ring land. Low enough compression I believe can cause a dirty burn leaving fuel in the exhaust.

 

It only runs a little rough after I go on a drive and then say stop at the gas station to get something to drink really quick then when I start it up it sputters all over its self for maybe 10-20 seconds and then is fine. It also seems that there are some days where the car has a whole bunch more power than others. BTW I do have a cone filter on stock intake tube and some no name headers & exhaust on the car but I don't think that is going to make that big of a difference. The only reason I was leaning towards it being a bad Distributor is because my TAC doesn't register right (I have not checked with a gauge just sounds like the motor is at 7000 RPM when it is bouncing rev limit at 6500 RPM). The car drives just fine never hesitates or anything while going down the road just the few symptoms that I listed here. I am going to go to work for three hours and when i get home the testing begins!

 

And if no one mentioned anywhere in the thread, STOP DRIVING IT!!! YOu are washing the cylinders walls dry with that extra fuel and your oil is probably the consistency of ink right about now. That's a ticking time bomb right there. You'll get a rod through the block pretty soon.

 

He's never vague, just lame answers.

OP just start with the injectors and report back, its cool sometimes to think 3 steps in advance.

 

Ok, check your fuel pressure - since you've already changed the FPR (and I'm hoping you went OEM here). Quickest thing to do is buy the FP guage on eBay for $19, it sits on top of your fuel filter at the firewall. If you're leaking fuel into the cylinders from a fuel injector you will see no pressure at the guage when the car is off. Autozone etc dont rent this, I tried.
If its your injectors you can mail them for servicing takes about a week. I sent mine on Saturday, they got it on Tuesday and by Saturday I got them back.

I dont think its compression, you're pissing fuel in your chamber. How's your mpg? O2 wont throw a code because it only looks for oxygen in the exhaust gas, but it would be nice to know your fuel trims.

 

MPG sucks compared to other civic's I have had but I live in the hills and have my foot into it everywhere I go so I get around 150 miles per tank lol I didn't get to test the injectors yesterday because it was raining and I don't have a shop to do it in but the weather cleared up today so it is on I will post back tonight. On a side note to grumblemarc I did a OIL change like 4 or 5 days ago the oil was black but didn't smell of gas or anything so at least the motor is happy with some fresh synthetic oil

 

OK so all the injectors check out OK based on resistance they were all at 12 ohms. What next?

 

BUMP

 

NOID light test is normally next.

I'd also think about the Primary O2 sensor, if it's faulty it could be not trimming the fuel thus pumping more gas than it should.

There is also the part about fuel pressure, not sure if a bad regulator could cause too much gas but it is still a part of the fuel system that can go awry.

 

Check fpr after the NOID light test, make sure its within spec. If you went and bought an adjustable fpr you need to adjust it.

 

And just as an FYI, the NOID light should be blinking when you are cranking the engine. If one of the lights stays on solid, that's the problem and isn't the injector but the fuel control which I believe is part of the ECU. Not sure if a short of some sort could cause constant voltage to the injector......

Anyways, you test each injector connector. Make sure to unhook all 4 injector plugs and both plugs to the distributor before cranking the motor repeatedly.