i just got my 99/00 b16a2 and i am gonna drop it into my 93dx hatch.i have the b16's motor harness...is there anyone in the area or that can explain really well that can help me out with the wiring...i have no clue on it and shops are chargin a grip of money to do it...id appreciate it...thanks

 

Maybe this will help.. I know it refers to GSR engine but I think they are similar

OBD 2 to OBD1 issues

1. Q What different sensors are there on an OBD2 engine and what do I need to do to make the extra **** inside the manifold work in an OBD1 car?

A What type of **** inside the manifold? I've disassembled an OBD2 GSR intake manifold and didn’t see anything. IABs are the same, ports are the same. The EACV bolt pattern is slightly different but mechanically/electrically the same on OBD1 and 2. This "sensor" you see on top of the manifold is the purge valve for the EVAP system.

Since you're using a pre-95 ECU, you've got nothing to worry about. Swap the air and coolant temp sensors with the Civic ones though...resistance values changed for OBD2 cars. You can leave the crank sensor unplugged since that's for 96-on systems only.

NOTE:
The 97 GSR manifold does have some differences, most notably the lack of a vacuum nipple on the throttle body for the Evap Purge solenoid. I just left mine unconnected. The smog check here isn’t as stringent as in California. (UPDATE: I have since added the correct nipple by drilling out the mounting boss on the throttle body and fastening a nipple in place with epoxy. To connect the hole I drilled into the main throttle body air passage from above and sealed the outside opening with a 4mm threaded plug. The Helms manual details the air flow for the Evap Purge system)

2. Q Do I need to re-wire the dash of the car if I want to install a 97 OBD2 engine?

A Well I have a 95 Civic Coupe With a 97 B18C1 in it and the only thing I had to do different is get a 95 ECU and no I didn't have to rewire the whole car or anything like that. I get no codes and I have no problems. I say why not keep the OBDII engine, because it will evidently have less miles on it (mine only had 12,000 miles on it). So for the extra $300 I had to spend on a 95 ECU (Got it from KATMAN,Thanks KAT)I have a very strong, practically brand new engine.

3. Q What extra wires do I need to run to the ECU to get the GSR engine to work?

A (Kenji) All you need to do is add 3 wires. VTEC pressure switch, VTEC solenoid, and knock sensor. You can do this by adding 'pins' to the Civic chassis harness. You can get the pins from a junkyard. Just go there and clip off a bunch of chassis harness plugs and try to get ECU plugs too. Most yards don't like you doing this but I am sure worse things have happened. When I wire up a 5G Civic I split the loom on the chassis harness after I added the pins in the appropriate spots and run it as cleanly as possible to the ECU. You will know where to add the wires on the chassis harness by looking at the corresponding spot on the engine harness. The VTEC PS is blu/blk, the VTEC solenoid is grn/yel, and the KS is red/blu. It is real easy. If you need any help email me privately.

Just install the swap and plug it up. The only thing you need to do is get an OBD1 ECU and add some wires for VTEC PS, VTEC solenoid, KS, and move A20 to A17. Oh yeah, you will also need to give the IAB a 12volt switched source. Here is why....OBD2 GS-R engine harnesses use a positive trigger from the ECU to activate the IAB. OBD1 GS-R engine harnesses use a negative trigger from the ECU to activate the IAB.

Don't believe me? Try a continuity test on the IAB plug on a OBD2 GS-R harness with the blk (I think that is the color. I am going from memory. Anyways it is not the red/blu wire.) wire and the thermostat ground. It will be continuous.

Now try a continuity test on an OBD1 GS-R engine harness. The yel/blk wire will be a 12V switched source.

Don't know why Honda did this but I am sure they have their reason.

NOTE:
The way to do this is to connect the black wire from the IAB plug to the Black/Yellow wire that feeds the injectors. If you unwrap the drivers side engine harness to the IAB plug you can easily relocate the black wire and splice it into the injector wire near the plug.

4. Q How do I use an OBD 2 engine in a 5th generation Civic?
A (Kenji) just plug up the engine harness underneath the hood and use an OBDI ECU. For the wiring, all you need to do is take the blu/yel wire from the 6 point (or maybe it is 5) plug that is left over at the passenger side and remove it from the plug and put it in the place of the knock sensor (on the corresponding spot on the Civic body harness). If you get confused just look at the D3 location on the ECU plugs. You will notice a blu/yel wire. Now just test for continuity between that wire and the blu/yel wire on the 6 point plug that is left over in the passenger side body harness. You don't need to add any wires for your car. Just switch the blu/yel wire and move A20 to A17. That is for the IAB.

5. Q Can some one verify that the IAB wires on obd2 engines at the sensor plug are, 1 black and 1 red/with a blue stripe? trying to label my harness while its off...thanks in advance..
A Yes.

 

helps a little..oh and i have the obd1 p30 ecu..that i am goin to run....
anyone else out there?

 

If you have a harness from a 99/00 B16A2 that means its a harness from a 99/00 SI and you CANNOT USE THAT HARNESS IN YOUR CAR.

Go get a harness from a 94-95 GSR and you will be golden. Not sure if OB2 GSR harnesses will work, but they may.