retainer ?'s
Okay so I ordered h22 pro1's springs, valves bases, and held off on there ti. Retainers because we'll this is my dd and I would like some longevity I won't be reving the pissed out of this so I asked them technically speaking could I use my stock steel ones as far as clearances and everything and they replied saying I would have to source these answers on my own wow thnx. So here I am.
So judging by my wear and tear used or new will the steel stock h22a4 retainers work on these.
My build:
88mm wiseco 11.5.1
BC sportsman rods
GE sleeved short block assembled,
BS delete kaizen
S2 pro 1+ cams
S2 valvetrain/ need cam gears.
S2 IM 74mm tb
Injen cai
Invidia catback
Bisimoto flywheel
ACT 275 hp rated clutch
Header: TBD, still up in the air if I need or want to really invest in a pricey one.
Probably beat to death but for **** and giggles im gonna ask can I get away with throwing a fpr on to squeeze more fuel in this is just a 250hp build GE rated it at.
So judging by my wear and tear used or new will the steel stock h22a4 retainers work on these.
My build:
88mm wiseco 11.5.1
BC sportsman rods
GE sleeved short block assembled,
BS delete kaizen
S2 pro 1+ cams
S2 valvetrain/ need cam gears.
S2 IM 74mm tb
Injen cai
Invidia catback
Bisimoto flywheel
ACT 275 hp rated clutch
Header: TBD, still up in the air if I need or want to really invest in a pricey one.
Probably beat to death but for **** and giggles im gonna ask can I get away with throwing a fpr on to squeeze more fuel in this is just a 250hp build GE rated it at.
Does S2 make steel retainers? I would stay away from titanium, they wear faster and need frequent valve lash adjustments. For a Non-DD car, titanium would be the better rout though.
If you put stock ones on be sure to check piston to valve, and valve lash clearances before starting it up. Then re check valve lash after driving it every couple days. Which is a good thing to do on a fresh rebuilt head after break in anyhow.
What injectors do you plan on using with a aftermarket FPR?
Raising the PSI may give a slight bump in fuel, but too much will hurt more then help. Id also suggest a new fuel pump for your set up. You may get away with a oem one for awhile, but would be a good upgrade along with some bigger injectors.
PLM headers are dyno proven to increase power, so are vibrant. Those are probably the cheapest performance headers out there, they both are between $300-$400. 90% of the other headers like Megan Racing and DC are just fancy oem replacements with little to no gain.
If you put stock ones on be sure to check piston to valve, and valve lash clearances before starting it up. Then re check valve lash after driving it every couple days. Which is a good thing to do on a fresh rebuilt head after break in anyhow.
What injectors do you plan on using with a aftermarket FPR?
Raising the PSI may give a slight bump in fuel, but too much will hurt more then help. Id also suggest a new fuel pump for your set up. You may get away with a oem one for awhile, but would be a good upgrade along with some bigger injectors.
PLM headers are dyno proven to increase power, so are vibrant. Those are probably the cheapest performance headers out there, they both are between $300-$400. 90% of the other headers like Megan Racing and DC are just fancy oem replacements with little to no gain.
No they don't that's why I'm asking if anyone has used their oem steel retainers on s2 pro 1 cams on a h22. Cause I know the support guy said you have to get the bases for clearance issue and springs for higher lobes I'm just wonderin if the retainer plays a role in the clearance as well.
The stock injector and fuel system would get me to a tuner I figured atleast. Everyone says they are a very rich basemap so I figured with a little more pressure I could just push the extra fuel through. I have a neo with a booms Lang as well if needed. And yes I understand afc's are very old technology and it would be exponentially better to be tuning on a Hondata obd1 system it's just I am obd2 required. And this isn't setting records my build list is a small NA build so a tuned/chipped basemap or afc should be fine.
The stock injector and fuel system would get me to a tuner I figured atleast. Everyone says they are a very rich basemap so I figured with a little more pressure I could just push the extra fuel through. I have a neo with a booms Lang as well if needed. And yes I understand afc's are very old technology and it would be exponentially better to be tuning on a Hondata obd1 system it's just I am obd2 required. And this isn't setting records my build list is a small NA build so a tuned/chipped basemap or afc should be fine.
The Ti retainers should be just fine. I have put ~7K miles on mine with no signs of wear.
For cam gears, get something with big bolts to tighten them down, like the new AEM, or Golden Eagle. I just killed a set of valves due to a cam gear slipping, and the tuner (Kenny aka Turbogixxer) said he has seen pretty much all of the gears that use small allen bolts do it.
For tuning, you may need to use a harness and neo for emissions purposes, but you are leaving a ton of potential on the table with your build. If you can use that for inspection, then switch to and obd1 conversion and Hondata etc, would be the way to go.
For cam gears, get something with big bolts to tighten them down, like the new AEM, or Golden Eagle. I just killed a set of valves due to a cam gear slipping, and the tuner (Kenny aka Turbogixxer) said he has seen pretty much all of the gears that use small allen bolts do it.
For tuning, you may need to use a harness and neo for emissions purposes, but you are leaving a ton of potential on the table with your build. If you can use that for inspection, then switch to and obd1 conversion and Hondata etc, would be the way to go.
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