So I have everything prepped and ready to go, but I am unsure of what to do with the Air Temperature Sensor. Since the D16Y7 ATS uses a different plug than the Z6 ATS. am I able to just splice and wire up the OBD1 plug for the Z6 ATS or shout I just leave the y7 one hanging somewhere or port it in my CAI?

 

Either splice it to an obd1 connector or put it into your intake arm

 

put it in the intake arm, drill a hole, add a grommet, done.

 

Which would be the better option, in the CAI arm or just splicing the wires and connecting?

 

Anyone?

 

 

 

That would probably be best so i will so that. Thanks eghatch

 

So I did the swap and it runs well, although there is one issue, when I start it up when cold it shoots to 2000 rpm and stays there while warming up, then after its warm it either stays at 2000rpm or rises slightly to 2300rpm ~ even after revving it it wont drop lower, however if I shut it off, then restart right after it idles fine. What could it be?

 

Is there a CEL on? Perhaps for the IACV?

EDIT: Watch this on checking/cleaning your FITV

 

Leviatard- Clean the IACV first. Have you adjusted the throttle body at all, it could be wide open?

 

When I first plugged everything back in after installing I accidentally reversed the MAP and TPS plugs which threw a MAP code, fixed and cleared and it was doing what it is now. the Throttle is closed and it now idles normal after I have been driving, but wont drop to idle until Im at a dead stop. it is still doing the warm up issue. Cleaning the IACV seems like a bad idea since it was fine with idling with the stock manifold.

 

How is it a bad idea? All it will cost you is time.

 

The last time I just cleaned an IACV was on the 95 accord I used to have and It made the issues with that worse, if it ain't broke, don't fix it, like I said before the swap idled fine, so I do not see how that would fix the issue, unless the IACV being emptied of coolant while I did the swap disrupted something.

 

If it aint broke then don't fix it? You know for a fact that the IACV is not causing your issue? Alright. Go ahead and discount something that is known to cause idle issues because of some preconceived notion you have.

Hint; when you post up asking for help and then start disregarding what you want to, they usually lock your thread.

 

I am not disregarding the help, I know it can cause the issue, I just know I have messed with stuff like that before and it turned out to not be the problem and made the situation worse that is all, so my apologies. and also the thing that I should have mentioned is that when I am driving and I push the clutch in it won't drop to idle like it would normally until I come to a complete stop. if that is a symptom of IACV then maybe you are right and I should give it a clean.

 

That is an important detail to be sure. Possibly something else is sticking. I don't see anything else right now that hasn't been mentioned.

 

I cleaned the throttle body before installing it as well and took the butterfly plate out, not sure If I could have put that back in wrong at all, if you can. that and if throttle body cleaner can damage the IACV, I do not know, the only other thing I can think of is maybe the coolant lines to the IACV are reversed. otherwise, everything else is operating properly.

 

SOunds like the next step is to try a different throttlebody since you disassembled it.

 

When i cleaned my moms throttle body (d16y7) it was fine and i used the same method. But idk this things can be very touchy. The problem also beig i do not have another tb to try.

 

So anything else to try other than adjusting the TB and cleaning the IACV?