So its been a while I have had my car. I sawapped it with a b16 engine from japan.

I rode the engine for a while, and build up a better cylinder head. I swapped cylinder head out. Probably only 30k on head. I just started to drive car again. was parked for 2 years or more.

Recently I am driving and the car has a hic-cup. like it surged under load. I ended up goosing the throttle and it almost cuts out. I happned friday. I did not drive car saturday or sunday but at night.

When I drive car last night (sunday) it seemed like it started to do it again.

I immideately looked at the plugs to see if one was fouling out or a cylinder was dead but all my plugs look white hot.

I am really not sure where else to look or what to look for. There are no leaks or oil anywhere. NO codes only the #9 code which I have had on for years since I did the swap. A new dist. never fixed the bulb or CEL anyway.

Right now the car runs and idles a bit low..when stopped under load it is cutting out or surging sounds like a dead spot in the car...

Anyone have any ideas? Or help would be great. I dont want to get stranded

 

Try fixing the wiring. The CEL code #9 is important. Are you using the correct distributor? You should trace the wires or rerun a set of wires. It is only 2 wires on the distributor and it goes back to the ECU. I'm sure that will help.

 

I replaced the distributor once and it was a refurbished unit. I think I am running the OEM dist. that came on the car. and the other one is a back up. It never fixed the code or blinking light. I traced all over but its never acted up. Up untill now the car started to surge or give a buck during driving under acceleration.

Some one handled the wiring who was reputable and I had him do it. I send my stuff out or send him and he made it all work from a DX or STD chassis to a b16. So I would not know or remember much about the ECM locations as it was a conversion.

Today I did not drive car. I did start car and it started ran for a brief time like 20 seconds and shut off. So I am afraid to do anything like drive it or go anywhere as I might get stranded or it could cost.


I think I am selling the car. I cant keep dealing with fixing and trying to figure it all out. Owned the car for a while now. Just put a bunch of stuff into the car like new radiator and traction bar.. just put real nice tires on it as well. Id rather try selling.

 

The OEM distributor is wrong. You got yourself into a mess.

 

OEM dist. wrong?

Thanks for your imput. I dont think I will be on here no more. WTF kind of response is that?

The OEM distributor is wrong.

Guess what buddy, the TD44 distributor came on the engine from japan. It also started and ran the car for a good 35-40 thousand miles. I had some one tell me to buy a new distributor to fix the CEL #9. Guess what. I bought another brand new aftermarket TD44 distributor and it never cleared the code.

So now your telling me the original one is wrong? Where do you pull your answers from? the thin air?

You may be behind the keyboard more than your behind a set of tools. I cant agree with you at all. Minimal info provided on your response.

 

Hey man, my BF is running a obd-o b16 w/ obd1 TD44 and it works fine. He had a custom harness made to convert it to obd1 distributor. Do you happen to know if yours was properly converted to run an obd1 distributor?

You may want to check your timing also. I've read that a stretched timing belt can cause a CEL # 9 to pop up. You may also want to backtrack the wiring to see if there is a break in it. We spent about a 1-2 hours removing looms and electrical tape tracing down a distributor code and it ended up being a bad ECU. Thankfully we had an extra ECU laying around and swapped it in! bam no problems anymore. good luck

 

Alright. I'll give you some extended input. The OEM 1991 CRX distributor will not work on a B16A. The 1991 CRX came with a D15B-(2 or 7?) or a D16A6. Neither of those motors are DOHC or VTEC.

You didn't say if the car was OBD0 or OBD1. That is crucial for determining the distributor code.

The TD-22u is the OBD0 B16 distributor. For OBD1, any OBD1 VTEC distributor will work. OBD2 have some sensor on the other side of the motor from what I recall.

The TD44U seems to be a OBD1 VTEC distributor. Without any detail, I assumed OEM meant OEM for your car. That's a common mistake.

I don't think aftermarket distributors are nearly as good as the OEM ones. Some of them are just refurb OEM models, but I wouldn't run an eBay brand distributor if that is what you are doing.

As for being behind a keyboard more than a set of tools: You are correct. My day job is 50% on the computer. So I'd say 4 hours a day is much more than I spend wrenching on my car. With that said, I've done plenty of this before and I've spent enough time reading articles and write ups to be helpful.

I'm the only person that bothered with this thread. It's been asked a million times and most people come in and just tell you to search.

I said you got yourself into a mess because you had someone else do the work. You said he/she was reputable, but a lot of people say that and it ends up being false. The wiring is easy to switch up. I've seen many swaps go wrong. I've seen tons of wiring harnesses destroyed and hacked up for no reason. Even experienced individuals mess up. Your CEL code #9 should be fixed. It is usually the sensor in the distributor. If it is not fixed with a new distributor, then you have an issue with the wiring. The ECU/ECM is under the passenger foot area. It's behind the carpet. Very easy to get to/find.

Good luck with the sale. Apologies for being so short winded before.

EDIT:

As long as the distributor and ECU are the same OBD, the engine's original OBD is irrelevant. Your BF should be using an OBD1 ECU such as a P28 or P72. I assume he is.

The rest of this is pretty sound advice. Trace wires or try a new ECU.

 

The car was built like in 2009. I ran for a while. No issues.. atleast 3 years. I parked it for 2. The car would start and run. I would start it up occasionaly to cycle fluids and heat up.

I recently got car inspected in begining of may. Its been a month...? problems.

The wiring was done by some one who specializes in the conversions. My car is a civic with a JDM swap. B16. OBD1. It was converted from the original platform to the obd1 with a jumper harness and under hood engine harness modified.


I do have a obd1 ecu TD44- with a JDM p30 short box.

I do also have a spare P30 Short box I might try. ? I do have a spare in my storage. I dont want to but if it fries something I am cooked.

Here is a photo of my engine bay

 

I'd still suggest checking your wiring or ECU. Especially if u said it sat for two years. Wouldn't be the first time I've seen electrical issues pop up after a cars been sitting for awhile. You can open up the ECU by just removing several screws. If the inside smells like dead fish, you may have leaking capacitors that can cause intermittent issues. good luck

 

Ok, I will try that since I am not doing nothing. The car was inspected and passed and I put about 2000 miles since I put it on road.

On the same hand. Things are not panning out in my favor. Just went to go look for the ECU in the box I left it in. Not there. So now I am screwed on my ecu test. Get to search franticly.

Thanks.

 

Hey everyone or who ever is reading this. Good morning.

Just went out to car. In a little bit of a better mood. Started car. went to engine bay to listen.

I notice my gates racing timing belt is making noise. It looked floppy and like it was loose.

I am wondering if my car jumped a tooth? on the timing gears? Car does start and run. Under load it cuts out. The timing belt is newer. I recently replaced it (within 2 years and car was parked) I was using gates racing timing belt before and replaced it again.

Currently it looks like its floppy and making some noise.

Does anyone have any imput on this?

It would require me to take the valve cover off, new gasket.. so on. Unless I can take the side cover off and see if the teeth are off at TDC #1

 

BTW I misplaced the ECU. My bro had it stored some where else. After frantically looking all over I called him. He told me it was in his car... Phew..

So even though I put it in. The Other ECU did not clear or fix the #9 cel.

So. I been back and fourth up on the dist end connector with orange and white wires if i remember correctly each wire is in its correct location.

 

Seems like goo_punch has had a bad timing belt cause this before too. When you take the valve cover off, you don't have to replace that gasket. I am not saying to cheap out on the $25, but you can skip it for now and see if your timing is really the cause of the problem.

As for seeing the timing from the side, not really possible unless you remove the plastic pieces which are tucked underneath the valve cover and bolted to the block. How can you tell it is making noise? You hear the noise and that's where it seems to be coming from? It's worth removing the cover and checking.

 

if you look in the photo you can see my timing belt (blue) and the back cover is off.

I have the plastic front cover off just checked the markings at tdc and they are on so? IDKWTF im doing.

Back cover is off. I was listeing to engine run and notice a noise which sounded like a flapping. It was the belt on the exhaust side flapping around. I dont know if the water pump or something went? Car stays cool. Maby the belt is old? dried out or stretched? not sure how THAT is possible beacsue its a newer belt.

I checked the tensioner and it seems to me tighter than a bulls A$$. The belt does fluctuate and flap.

 

It was an attachment, I didn't see if when I was posting the reply. I do see the timing belt, but that's not enough to really do anything. The front cover has to come off.

Here's a write up just in case:
https://honda-tech.com/forums/honda-accord-1990-2002-2/how-replace-timing-belt-timing-balancer-belt-water-pump-f22b1-1908944/

It's a SOHC F22, but the procedure is similar.

If the side of the belt closest to the front fender is loose when at TDC, you may need a new belt. I forget what the spec calls for. But it's impossible to determine how much torque you are applying to move the belt 'x' distance by hand.

 

So I just had a friend swing by and I had him look and give me his input.

Car did not die or stall out. The belt issue was probably nothing.

Funny because I started and shows him engine running and listen to noises and than we later went for a ride I describe the hiccup or surge during accel and it did not happen. Felt like I wasted his time and mine.

I did go through a few things like check marks at tdc. Inspect dist. Cap. Inspect plugs. I backed the fuel pressure down from 50 to 40 thinking it was too high.

There was a electrical wire I addressed and felt like i t could have had a bad connection. 4 days now NO car. And today I waited to show it to buddy and i t did not do anything like stall,surge buck or leave me stranded. I opened it up VTEC cracked and that was it. I did it again opend car up full throttle did not stall or anything just a low idle after that.

 

So its been a week or 2. I am back.

Saturday night.. the car did the same $hit. crusing at 50 and the car started to surge and hesitate and buck a little. Was getting dark. I was on a road that was 90% covered by trees so during full day light it barely gets light. It was getting dark and things got bad. My hazzard lights do not work or flash.

I was very concerned. No hazzards? everyone behind me who pulled up was being dumb. Not very helpful in regards to im broke down.

Anyway I knew what I had to do immediately was call for another TOW.

Got the car dropped at my place again and worked all day yesterday monkieing around. Went out and got a new main realy and it did not solve the problem. When I put my back up dist. on the car, it did fire it and run it for a short time (10 seconds) and that was it. I was able to start it one or 2 more times and than my jump pack died.

Had been arguing with my brother about my car and he tried to help and his help is yelling at me and telling me how it is. so i bagged out of the car for a while and cooled off and got to relax my mind. After a few non-sence rounds of yelling he noticed my Fuel gauge was not registering pressuure.

So I am almost positive I have a super weak pump and it is not pumping anything. I thought I was able to get to my pump from under the seat, and I remember having my pump done about 4 years ago. I had a pump put in for no reason (was a cheap *** pep-boys part) and I ran the car for about 1 year on the pump and parked it for about 2. Car sat... recently started driving.

The bummer is the shop charged me all this money to drop the tank and do the pump and i never needed it. I thought it was a issue before and I paied them bean bags like $400+ to do the job and it never fixed my car. A month went by and they "could not figure it out" I showed up to pay them off and looked under my hood and it was a fuse that went last time and it costed me 400 for a cheap **** pump and all.

Now I am looking for a upgrade pump. I bought my brother one for his acura. He said listen to mine... and turn his key and it sounded like a jet engine. mine was very faint like it was clogged.

What is a good 91 civic fuel pump? I do have a back up acura pump here but Im looking for a good replacment this time

 

Get a Walbro 190 lp fuel pump.

I just searched the market place, really quickly I might add. $89 shipped. Not sure if that's the best price.

http://hondamarketplace.com/showthre...ight=fuel+pump

Try lifting up your back seat, you may have an access panel under it instead of dropping the tank. This is probably terrible information, but I don't know which cars do and do not have a panel.

 

Just did the pump in a hour or so.

Was the problem. fired right up after 2 hours of searching for tools and 1 hour of work. Could not find a 3/8 ratchet for ****. I just dropped all my tools off too. Its done. Not going to go for a ride tho untill later...

Any insight on the hazzard lights? Fuse is good... No BLINKIE Almost got killed the other night No blinking lights .

hit the button nothing. Fuse is good. Any other place I should check??

 

Have you done any wiring in the past with the lighting? HIDs? Foglights? Wierd underglow stuff? Tucked wiring?

Often times issues like this crop up from messing with wiring, could be that a ground is loose too.

 

You know its just been really crazy. Like real insane with the car.

After I did the pump yesterday I just started the car and ran it for about 20 minutes. I called my neighbor to give me a ride I was not ready to take the car out. He took me for a ride I had to do some things and he asked me where I made it with the car and I told him I fixed it. I put the new pump it I started it and ran it but did not want to take it out on the road. It was only like 90 some degrees out yesterday. Could not imagine getting stranded.

Well, My brother wanted me to take him to the store later last night and he was all loaded up on beer so needed me to drive. I thought we would take his vehicle? He said U driving. So i was like I am not ready to break down or what ever have happen. It was a quick job to do the pump but I was worn out after doing it and like I said I did not want to get stuck again. Its getting costly here with PARTS and TOWS that I dont need. Just got stuck with the MAIN RELAY I just bought and cant return so if anyone needs one I have a brand new one.

Well we make it out the drive down the street to a light.. and on the main road. No signs of kicking bucking or surging but the car did die climbing a hill and I had to carry my momentum to get it off the road. Car just SHUT DOWN.

So, It did have fuel pressure this time. No codes were flashing. I had put my *newer* back up dist on and the car ran.. but obviously died. Was out there for like 1 hour having my brother go off on me because I had a attitude about the car dieing. I did not want to even take it out. Of course I was pist off. He was out there just yelling at me making me feel like NO ONE. Its great to have a extra hand but not when they ******* yell at you. So I spend all that time hearing him go off and pull all sorts of **** out wires and messing with my car and I wanted to just push it into a spot and call it a night. Ended up walking home and thought about some stuff on the walk and here the dist. was throwing code 15. I realise that the dist. could have cooked? and I ended up going back later last night and putting my old dist. in and it started right back up. I was able to get my car home with out another yelling match and tow. I did pull fuse and reset ECM. On the ride home it came on again with the old original dist. in.

Any ideas on why now the code 15 is flashing. I never had it before and 1 dist. to the next it did the same thing.

 

Looking up some stuff, it seems code 15 is the Ignition Control Module (ICM), the Igniter. It's a replaceable component inside your distributor, or otherwise replace the whole distributor with a brand new one. I believe they also sell the igniter (ICM) by itself at auto parts stores. Secondly, people also point to the main relay.

They have a obd0 flash codes list here in honda-tech, I'd keep it for your reference