I have a ls swap in my ek it has a m24 turbo on it stock internals has evo 8 injectors warlboro 255 fuel pump 3 bar map currently running on a basemap in socketed p28 ecu it idles fine a drives fine until you want to punch it and it just bogs down or when your at a launch it's fine till around 4k rpm then bogs out really bad for a couple seconds then suddenly comes back and pulls hard any input or help? I put the new 3 bar Map in place of the stock map thinking it might be that but didn't help at all

 

Uhhh if the basemap was made for a oem map sensor then keep that on there for now. Also it not running right bc it's basemap.lol it was designed to be a starting point. To start the engine and move it lightly, not to be hammered on. Guess you don't even have a wideband to monitor the A/F ratio to see how the engine is running in terms of rich or lean? I suggest a actual tune to fix your issue.

 

It's on a basemap, not a tune. how were you expecting it to run?

also if the basemap isn't setup for a 3bar map then you've just made the problem worse. you can't just go swapping parts around and expect everything to magically work.

a basemap is meant to start up the car to check for normal operation, leaks, make sure all fluids get up to temp and to get the car to a tuner so it can be tuned... they weren't meant to be driven on like a stock ecu and they certainly aren't meant to be used to beat on the motor..

get it tuned and your problems will go away.

 

I do have a new basemap for the 3 bar I've had several cars on basemaps that ran good not great but good and haven't acted like this

 

Countless reasons it runs like poop......why the 3bar map? You pushing over 30psi? The resolution on bigger MAP sensors is unnecessary if under high boost levels like that, and a real dyno tune is in order, don't run it off the base map and expect it much.....a 2.5bar MAP will work upto 22psi with better resolution

 

Nothing runs even close to good on a basemap. unless you have a seriously weird definition of good.

the injector scalars could be wrong, battery offset could be wrong, dead time could be wrong, the timing and fueling tables are definitely wrong, ignition retard could be wrong, any sensor settings in the ecu could be wrong, cam timing/distributor timing could be wrong, ignition sync value in the ecu could be wrong, coil dwell settings could be wrong, disitributor could be 180* out, valve lash could be wrong, you could have a vacuum leak, bad iacv, ecu pins could be loose, wiring harness could have issues, you could be missing engine/trans to chassis grounds, etc... the possibilities of what's wrong is literally endless.

hence why a basemap isn't designed to be driven on.. without a wideband and egt gauge you have no idea what the engine is doing.

you could be too lean or too rich causing elevated EGTs (too rich can elevate EGTs just like being too lean can), ignition timing could be horribly wrong causing elevated EGTs, pre-ignition/detonation, incomplete fuel/air charge burn, all of this leads to engine component damage and possibly a reduced service life or an immediate catastrophic failure.

 

Do you have to have ecu hardware for tuning

 

Oh man this thread

 

Was friends with a guy who would run every motor he had on basemaps.. Needless to say they all blew up. The money you will spend on another motor could be spent getting a tune.

 

um... yes. and if you don't know what you're doing then you can severely damage things

I don't get your "i have a basemap for the 3bar map" comment. if your basemap is scaled around a 3bar sensor then having the stock one would result in the car doing nothing more than idling (poorly)

same for the I put my 3bar map sensor in... unless you physically swapped the eprom chip in the ecu from a stock map sensor basemap to a 3bar basemap then you don't have a map for one of them... you can't just plug them in and expect for the ecu to know the difference. it doesn't work like that.

if your basemap uses the stock sensor then say at warm idle you see 25in of vacuum. let's say that equals 1 volt from the sensor to the ecu. with the same idle vacuum with a 3bar (still on the stock sensor map) the sensor voltage could be lower or higher than stock (i don't know the scalar breakdown, this is just a theoretical example) and this would make the ecu think the motor isn't idling at 25in of vacuum.

the reverse is true for a 3bar map using the stock sensor... the relationship between the sensor voltage output and what that voltage correlates to in pressure is not the same between the two sensors.

you obviously don't have a firm grasp of what's going on here... I'm not trying to be a dick, I'm trying to give you advice to prevent you from killing your motor. I highly suggest you take the car to a reputable tuner in your area and let them fix the small issues and properly tune the car.

most of the time if you have questions the tuner/shop would normally be happy to help you with any questions (provided you're a paying customer or a repeat customer, most shops don't give out free advice)


I was waiting for you to break out an Anna gif lol, thank you for never disappointing.

 

You, personally, may not. Check with your tuner and see what they require.
A tuner should have everything to hook up to your ECU during the tuning session and will load the final tune to a new chip to replace your basemap.

 

Keep beating on it with a basemap and yours will blow up too..lol

 

i bet its an "eBay" "GM style" 3 bar map too. lol

 

 

I don't even...