Hello Honda tech, first post here. I have owned my 1990 Ef hatch for 2 years and have been a long time lurker here. Here is my question, my car is currently dpfi, I've found the mpfi conversion harness made by monotech on Ebay, I've also seen his OBD1 mpfi conversion harnesses online as well, I plan on swapping in a non vtec B18 and am leaning more toward an OBD1 B18B as opposed to an OBD0 and OBD1 B18A because it is not only a newer engine with less miles but it has 10 more HP and 10 more ft lbs of torque, I've also read the B18B head flows a little better the the B18A head, so in the meen time I was thinking I could convert my D15B1 to OBD1 mpfi by using a D15B7 dizzy and the B7 ecu with OBD1 injectors and the monotech OBD1 mpfi conversion harness, would this work until I swap in an OBD1 B18B? Or should I just convert to OBD0 mpfi with his harness and run that till I swap in the B18 then convert to OBD1 with the jumper harness he makes? The only reason I would like to covert to OBD1 is because I would like to turbo the B18 and from what I have read any good program on OBD1 is far more tunable than say turbo edit on OBD0, i'm not knocking OBD0 tuning I would just like to convert to OBD1 because i'm assuming there are not many OBD0 tuners out there. Btw the OBD1 mpfi conversion harnesses he makes are like the OBD0 dpfi to mpfi conversion harness with the OBD1 jumper already attached and wired to all the needed plugs all in 1 engine harness. Thanks in advance I appreciate it! - Jake Kenny

 

I recommend going with a B20B or B20Z over a B18. You can usually find them for around $500 from JDM importers with under 60k miles. And they are MUCH more powerful than a B18. JMO

 

Thanks for the input engine wise but i'm really looking for what to do OBD wise, can you share your opinion on that?

 

If you convert to OBD1 MPFI now, you will be able to bolt a B series right in (wiring-wise).

 

Do you think it would be worth it to do everything at once? So I could use a D15B7 dizzy, injectors, and ecu to run OBD1 on my D15B1 till I swap in the OBD1 B18B1? The monotech OBD0 dpfi to OBD1 mpfi is a custom made plug and play engine harness with the OBD0-OBD1 jumper already wired into the engine harness to all the needed OBD1 plugs for all the OBD1 engine components. I'd only have to swap a couple ecu pins around which isn't a problem for me.

 

Whichever will simplify the process for you is better. IMO go OBD1 with the engine. Be prepared for issues though. Injectors, distributor, O2 sensor and others will play a factor in this process. Wherever you purchase the engine make sure it is a reputable company.

 

You could if you could find all the parts for near free, which you probably could at a pull a part junkyard. Also you'll need to wire in the additional 3 wires for the oxygen sensor as well to the ECU.

 

OBD1 is superior. It's newer. It's almost common sense. Much easier to work with overall. Even more so when it comes to tuning. OBD0 pieces are getting much older now and are getting harder to find. In a few years OBD0 will literally be 'antique' and will be very expensive to source good parts.

 

Thanks everyone I really appreciate it! I'm going to covert to OBD1 mpfi before the B18 swap!

 

U do know that u need a mpfi manifold too right

 

Yes, do this and get all your issues/troubleshooting sorted. Get everything running fine, then your future B-swap will be that much easier. I too recommend finding a low mileage B20Z over the B18B.

 

Just be careful with the B20 and your radius arms (Arms for the front cross member?). They have a tendency to rub depending on your motor mounts.

 

I have a complete A6 manifold, however I will be going to the local pull a part for a B7 dizzy and injectors.

 

How are those engines on boost with a stock block, I have a Garrett TA0301 T3 turbo with a .42 ar compressor .48 ar turbine, I read a post where a guy was using one on his B18B and he said spool time was great but it ran out of air shortly after 6 grand, which is good because of the stock 6500 or 6800(can't remember) rpm rev limit on the B18 or B20. My only concern using that turbo on the B20 would be chocking off the exhaust of the engine.

 

I will be using billet hasport mounts I got from my buddies old hatch but ill be sure to keep that in mind, thanks for the tip!

 

One more question, anyone had any luck tuning an OBD0 turbo (or NA) set up using turboedit with a socketed and chipped OBD0 ecu? I've read a pretty good amount on pgmfi.org where you can use a datalogging cable hooked up to your laptop and get a pretty decent street tune using turbo edit, as you all probably know you can tune ignition timing and compensate for larger injectors as well as alot of other things. If anyone has any experience or anything let me know.

 

I haven't done this myself (tuning OBD0 turbo) but was looking into OBD0 tuning options on my NA b16. From what i've seen there are plenty of people who successfully tune on either Turboedit or BRE in both forced induction or NA. If you're willing to dedicate some time to learn you can walk away with a good tune. The problem with tuning on OBD0 seems to be third party "tuners" no longer wanting to provide the service. Most will require you convert to OBD1 for more stable maps, S300, better distributors, and as others have mentioned above: ease in finding replacement parts moving forward.

IMO i'd do the OBD1 MPFI swap first, then proceed with the swap.

 

You will need to run either an N1 pulley (alternator only) or what I did: custom machine shorten a set of curved radius rods out of a 92-93 accord this gives the best clearance and allows me to run a fluid damper pulley.

 

Yeah I bet it would be quite difficult finding a tuner to tune OBD0, thank you for the input though, ill look more into OBD0 tuning on pgmfi.org

 

Does this apply only to the B20? Or the B18B1 also?

 

Since this just went there, do not tune on OBD0. It is a nightmare. BRE and TurboEdit have horrible options for datalogging, which is the most important part! Honestly, and I mean this, if you are going to try and tune yourself DO NOT use OBD0. It is awful. The biggest waste of time. Some of the knowledge transfers over, but that's it. I'd go with Chrome on OBD1 if you just want to do some simple stuff.

I started off with an ostrich and a hulog on a PW0 I chipped myself. I now have a P28 with a demon board and it's literally a night and day difference. PGMFI.org is very out dated. It's not very active anymore. I ended up selling most of my equipment and ECUs for the price/more than what I paid and bought the demon used BNIB.

I'd definitely go OBD1 if I went through it all again.