So I am curious on what intake manifold to run. Ive been reading good and bad things about sk2,blox, aebs, ect......
This motor is freshly built and not even back from machine shop yet.

BUILD
B20Z2 BLOCK
BORE 84.5 (NOT DECKED IT DIDNT NEED IT)
YCP ITR PISTONS
HASTINGS RINGS
STOCK RODS
ARP ROD BOLTS
ACL ROD AND MAIN BEARINGS
CRANK RE POLISHED
ALL NEW SEALS

2000 SI HEAD JUST MACHINED
NEW VALVE
SKUNK2 ALPHA SPRINGS AND RETAINERS
ITR USDM CAMS
BWR CAM GEARS
68MM THROTTLE BODY
ZERG THERMAL MANI GASKET
P30 VTEC SOLENOID
STOCK RAIL
FUEL PRESSURE REGULATOR

IM RUNING MY LS TRANNY.

WHAT WOULD BE THE BEST MANIFOLD FOR THE SET UP.
I CURRENTLY HAVE A ITR P73 MANIFOLD BUT WAS THINKING ABOUT SOMETHING DIFFERENT BECAUSE ITR MANI STARTS MAKING POWER AT 7K RPMS
AND I CANT GO PASS 8200.

ALSO WHAT SHOULD I SET MY FUEL PRESSURE TO ON MY REGULATOR THAT SAFE UNTILL I GET IT TUNED?

I DONT HAVE THE MONEY TO GET IT TUNED YET.
IT CURRENTLY HAS A MUGEN CHIPPED P28

SORRY FOR BEING SO LONG I JUST NEED ADVICE.
ANY WILL BE APRECIATED

 

Best recommendation would be use your money for rods. Stock fuel pressure is fine and the P73 manifold will make good power.

 

Just want to make sure everybody reads this part...

 

This exactly.
Get those rods outta there, before they leave on their own.
This is the B20 achilies heel, stock rods and bolts let go unexpectedly.
Fix now or forever hold your pieces of motor.

 

You have pretty much the same setup as I do. ITR IM will do just fine, I would recommend you to get a set of forged rods if you were planning on making more power(rev more). Ive been daily driving mine with eagle rods for almost 2years now about 15xxxmi on motor since built. My motor sees past 8k occasionally but never gives me any hiccup.

 

- you have ITR cams and you setting your rev limit to 8.2K. I wouldn't be worried about the stock rods with the ARP bolts.

- no fuel pressure necessary, and stock ITR intake manifold will be fine.

- the most important thing to do is to spend your money on a tune. the mugen chip is useless.

- the #2 thing I would do, is to replace your LS tranny with at least a GSR. how the car feels will greatly depend on that.

- u didnt mention a header, but hopefully it's a decent replica or skunk2 alpha.

 

MY PISTONS ARE NOT FLOATING PISTONS THEY TAKE PRESSED WRIST PINS ALL THE RODS I FOUND ARE FOR FLOATING PISTONS.
IS THERE ANY FORGED RODS THAT ARE PRESSED FIT?

 

HEADER IS TRI-Y

 

Dude ok, theres an aftermarket company makes cast pistons work for float and non-float both. RS machine itr would work with eagle rods. You cant find my pistons(spark racing) because they closed the company few years ago. Sucks that ycp itr wont work on eagle rods, didnt even know. I only know they are relatively cheap pistons.

 

Rs machine makes ycp pistons there the same company and made identical material wise.
The only reason they are cheaper than rs machine is because rs machine pistons can be used either floating or pressed as ycp is just pressed that's why they are about 100 dollars cheaper. But as far as quality goes they are exactly the same.
I already bought the ycp itr pistons and machine shop has begun assembly. Hopefully it will be alright with the stock rods, the rods have been re sized and re conditioned and fitted with arp rod bolts.

 

invest the money in your gearing, ls is worthless. b16

 

I figured ls tranny is perfect for b20 due to the amount of torque it has
B16 and gsr are to short I will go threw gears like so fast.
And hwy driving sucks lol

 

best option would be gsr tranny with ls 5th gear if you have to drive on the freeway a lot.
if you think that the torque is gonna save you with ls tranny you will be greatly disappointed. ls tranny is for lower redline engine and geared appropriately for 7200rpm redline

if you gonna have 8200 rpm shifting a gsr tranny will be perfect

to give you an idea
I have a b16 and b20 with gsr trannys .
b16 is too weak and takes forever to spin up
b20 has a lot more torque and I hate it because I have to shift at 6500 rpm
neither engine is geared right for gsr tranny as a daily driver especially on the freeway
but if I was racing I would still choose shorter geared transmission


have a look here and input your wheel size and shift point for both gsr and ls tranny that way you can see exactly what you getting with each

http://www.zealautowerks.com/transcalc.php

 

GSR trans is great with a torque-y motor. Skip the LS fifth, I'm putting my stock one back in when I have the time to pull the trans. It dropped the rpm by about 300 at 75mph, so it's much quieter and calmer but not worth the mismatch in gearing. It also had no measurable impact on fuel mileage. Fact is, I just use fifth less around town.

The big downfall of the LS trans is the 4.26 final drive. It makes the gears super long. I'd get rid of it asap.

 

I think gsr tranny is the best for mainly dd car. I used to hate getting on highway with b16 tranny. B16 makes your car peppy for sure though.

 

lol ur town must be big. I barely get to use 4th gear around town on b20
and mostly 3rd gear in b16

gsr tranny is by far the best "compromise" for daily driving

 

Id rather take an interstate than stuck in traffic worrying about some teenie bopper or old folks rear end me everytime so i need gsr tranny lol

 

Lol I guess so, lots of 45mph roads around. My commute is about 60 miles a day.

 

lol a b16 tranny feels long to me now, ever since DDing a 4.928 final drive for 4 years

 

Like driving an s2k huh? haha

The ITR manifold will do great on this build. I'd save the money for a tune you said you can't afford. If it blows it doesn't matter what manifold you have.

Stock rods w/ arp bolts will be fine on this build. The builds that really need better rods are the ones spinning 9k+ all the time. Get the rotating assembly balanced, and a tune and your in good shape.

Notice how many times the word "tune" has come up in these posts though? A build is only a good as it's tune. You're heart can run without your brain right?

 

Did you open up the inlet on the intake manifold? If not the bigger throttle body really isn't helping much. Opening up the inlet on the manifold you have will help make better top end power. Until you mod further that ITR manifold will serve you well. Put any intake money you have and put it towards engine management and a tune. You will pick up some power, make it more reliable AND set yourself up to make more power later on. Money well spent imo.