93 civic hatch fuel problem or maybe spark? help
i got a 93 civic hatch with a b18b1 and i have been having straight headaches with it . every time i would take off in 1st and 2nd gear the car would start jerking and you can here like multiple spuddering in the muffler and it would not move like if it lost its horsepower and then all of a sudden it would go like normal and it would do it again , and when its idling like say i was in a red light and it was acting up the idle would drop and then go high , then it would return to normal . alot of people have told me different things like it has to do with air , maybe fuel problems , or dizzy problems . i don't want to be guessing and buying parts for nothing and replacing stuff that works. maybe this has happened to anybody and can tell me what it might be ?? my check engine does not work so i can't check that
, it started happening after i changed the PVC valve . but i double checked that everything was tight and it was . i have recently replaced the fuel pressure regulator and nothing -.- next i was thinking of replacing the dizzy but that's like 200 bucks lol i also changed the plugs , wires , distributor rotor button , the cap and nothing so can anybody help me ? please has this ever happen to anybody ?
, it started happening after i changed the PVC valve . but i double checked that everything was tight and it was . i have recently replaced the fuel pressure regulator and nothing -.- next i was thinking of replacing the dizzy but that's like 200 bucks lol i also changed the plugs , wires , distributor rotor button , the cap and nothing so can anybody help me ? please has this ever happen to anybody ?
Changed the fuel filter? They're only about $25 from an online Honda dealer and its a regular maintenance item that should get replaced from time to time anyway.
did you use a Honda pcv valve or aftermarket? What about egr?
did you use a Honda pcv valve or aftermarket? What about egr?
i recently replaced the fuel filter and i used a after market pcv valve . i havent messed with the egr yet ..
take the tubing or whatever apart, blow it all clean with compressed air, and use a new Honda PCV valve.
im guessing those are cheap lol , should i also change the grommet where the pcv valve sits?
If the grommet is cheap or if it looks worn out, yeah. IV personally seen lots of problems with aftermarket PCV valves, and cheap-*** shops changing them. I always disassemble the system, blow it all out, and use OEM pcv valves. Same goes with ERG
i dont think obd-1 ls motors have egr's...or do they ?
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pfft **** if I know, i think you may be right actually. They're things i usually do together though, basically the same procedure
lots of people actually remove them, they seem to cause lots of problems. I dont recommend this because it hurts earth our home but i understand the motivation.
did you just replace the valve or did you service the whole PCV system like i was saying before? If you didnt, that alone may fix it.
lots of people actually remove them, they seem to cause lots of problems. I dont recommend this because it hurts earth our home but i understand the motivation.
did you just replace the valve or did you service the whole PCV system like i was saying before? If you didnt, that alone may fix it.
pfft **** if I know, i think you may be right actually. They're things i usually do together though, basically the same procedure
lots of people actually remove them, they seem to cause lots of problems. I dont recommend this because it hurts earth our home but i understand the motivation.
did you just replace the valve or did you service the whole PCV system like i was saying before? If you didnt, that alone may fix it.
lots of people actually remove them, they seem to cause lots of problems. I dont recommend this because it hurts earth our home but i understand the motivation.
did you just replace the valve or did you service the whole PCV system like i was saying before? If you didnt, that alone may fix it.
naa i just replaced the valve i didnt touch anything else .. im going to go to acura tommarow and pick that up and see if that fixs it cause this car has just been headaches for me , im thinking of swaping the ls and justing droping a b20 and maybe some boost down the road lol 

then you can try putting it back together, or also get the new OEM PCV
the PCV valve has tubing that it connects to on both sides. Disconnect the tubing from the valve and also the engine. Hold an air compressor nozzle to the tubing, and blow all the built up crap out of it.
then you can try putting it back together, or also get the new OEM PCV
then you can try putting it back together, or also get the new OEM PCV
It seems I mildly misinformed you, i think there's only one hose I dunno why I wrote that.
thinking about it you should clean your throttle body too if you haven't done that. There's a crap load of tune up things you should do, not just replace parts but also cleaning things
thinking about it you should clean your throttle body too if you haven't done that. There's a crap load of tune up things you should do, not just replace parts but also cleaning things
It seems I mildly misinformed you, i think there's only one hose I dunno why I wrote that.
thinking about it you should clean your throttle body too if you haven't done that. There's a crap load of tune up things you should do, not just replace parts but also cleaning things
thinking about it you should clean your throttle body too if you haven't done that. There's a crap load of tune up things you should do, not just replace parts but also cleaning things
p75 ecu , and i don't know cause i haven't checked to see if the check engine light even works , it comes on and off due to having no converter . but the thing is i have to drive the car awhile to get it on, then when i turn it off it goes away , it never stays on .. always have to drive it alot in order to get it on .
The CEL in the cluster?
When you turn the key from off to ON(II) [engine off], the CEL turns on for about 2 seconds and then turns off?
The next time the CEL turns on while driving, pull over and leave the engine running and then jump the service connector to pull the CEL code. An OBD1 ECU would not throw a code for a bad catalytic converter.
When you turn the key from off to ON(II) [engine off], the CEL turns on for about 2 seconds and then turns off?
The next time the CEL turns on while driving, pull over and leave the engine running and then jump the service connector to pull the CEL code. An OBD1 ECU would not throw a code for a bad catalytic converter.
The CEL in the cluster?
When you turn the key from off to ON(II) [engine off], the CEL turns on for about 2 seconds and then turns off?
The next time the CEL turns on while driving, pull over and leave the engine running and then jump the service connector to pull the CEL code. An OBD1 ECU would not throw a code for a bad catalytic converter.
When you turn the key from off to ON(II) [engine off], the CEL turns on for about 2 seconds and then turns off?
The next time the CEL turns on while driving, pull over and leave the engine running and then jump the service connector to pull the CEL code. An OBD1 ECU would not throw a code for a bad catalytic converter.
if im not mistaken on most hondas the service connector is located on the p/s right ?
You neither need nor want an OBD1 code reader. Just jump the service connector. Click the Codes link in my signature.
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