I don't get why the porcelain is so black after the threads? It's only about 3/4ths of the way around it.
Stock head F22B1.
10.5:1 Arias Pistons
Eagle rods.
PTE 680cc.
.60AR Comp/.63 AR Turbine T3/T4 on 19-20psi.
93 pump gas.
I'm about .75/deg of retard per psi and running 11.5-11.2 AFR in boost. Plugs are BKR7E. Gapped to about .021-.022

 

Did you make a pull on these clean and then shut it down immediately?

Hard to read a plug with any idle time or regular driving on it.

 

That's when you read the strap for timing.

Looks like you're running rich or burning oil.

 

Agreed rich or oil

 

They've got about 1000 miles on them. I usually put in a new set every time I change the oil, go do a pull and then check them. The blackness on the porcelain is always there after the pull. It's a little richer past 6k rpm. Like high 10s I think. Hard to focus on the wideband during pulls. I don't have anything in the way of datalogging. It's street tuned on Crome free and I endlessly fiddle with it. The car doesn't smoke at all. I kinda figured it was just from running rich but I wanted some other opinions. Didn't know if I needed a different heat range or something.

 

High 10's is quite rich

 

It's only like 10.8-10.9 for ~500rpm. I'm about to go out and fix that right now. I have a feeling it's a valve seal issue though. I just went out and checked again. That blackness is only on cyl #1 plug. Others look exactly as they should. It did it on my stock block setup too. Same cylinder.

 

Take another pic, turn the plug sides so we can actually see the timing mark.

It looks a tad rich, but nothing hurtful..

 

10s is still rich. you could lean it out to 12:1-12.5:1 under boost with no issues assuming you're using a minimum of 93 octane.

 

even if you run 11.8 or 11.9 for boost you should be good

 

The heat range on the plug is correct, but overall running rich. The tip is getting hot enough to prevent carbon build-up, but the rest has black soot from excessive partially-burnt fuel (aka too rich).

If the porcelain or electrode were different colors, that would indicate incorrect heat range. Ignition timing is mostly independent of heat range (when correct), that's determined by using a fresh set of plugs and doing a full pull and looking at the ground strap.

 

Did you tune it or self

 

He said it was street tuned... by the way he's describing it I think he at least partially tuned it or has refined the initial tune a small bit.

what's weird is why the plug is so coated in carbon with afrs in the low 11s. I don't know if you answered this but did you do a wot pull and immediately shut the motor down or did you let engine rpm fall before shutting the car off? that could cause erroneous reading of engine conditions.

do you notice any smoking or a slight smell of burning oil? a compression and leakdown test would let you know if you have a ring seal issue or some other problem that's allowing oil into the combustion chamber.

if you can put a fresh set of plugs in it, let the engine get up to operating temperature (both oil and coolant) a good 15-20 minute idle would suffice and shouldn't cause any buildup on the plugs that could skew your reading of the plugs.

then do a wot pull and immediately shut the motor down at your rpm limit, coast to a stop and pull the plugs right away and check them and take pics for us. sometimes using older plugs can cause problems with the plug showing the true engine operating conditions so a set of new plugs will almost immediately give you an accurate read with the wot pull then shutdown method.

at least that's my two cents lol

 

I street tuned it and I've been tuning for a few years now. I always tune on the side of safety hence the mid/low 11 AFR in boost. Anyway, as I stated once already it's just on the cyl #1 plug. I overlooked that. The other 3 are fine and look normal. I believe it's a head issue, a valve seal I guess. I reused this head on my new build. My old stock block setup was using the same head and had the same issue but I didn't really care about it then because I was actually trying to break ****(even though I couldn't) before I put my built bottom end in. Anyway, this motor is healthy aside from this little issue on cyl #1. Compression is 200psi across the board. Exactly the same on every cylinder.


And no, the car doesn't smoke at all under throttle or even during normal driving, ever. This issue seems to be intermittent. The only time the car will smoke is very briefly if I've shut it off hot and then restarted it within 5-10 minutes. I can confirm it's oil. It'll idle like poop, smoke a little, and then clear up after 15-20 seconds and be fine again. Oil consumption is minimal. Having only slightly deviated from the full mark after 1000 miles or so.

 

If it was something burning in the chambers, you'd have something on the strap, that's not the case here. Lean the car up in boost to around 11.8-12.0, Whats your total timing, the plug heat range is fine, but we need to see the ground strap.

 

Yea I'm trying to figure out why the plug looks that way if it's only an intermittent issue... maybe it's present all the time but only gets to the point where it's noticeable at random intervals

 

You might have a inj issue if one isn't spraying as well as it should.