I have a couple things I want to ask/see if there is anything wrong. First thing is the car is an boosted ls vtec integra. When i was driving the other day just cruising down the road the rmp just dropped about 2000 rpm's for like a second and jumped back up. it did it like 3 times back to back and felt it in the motor too. Then it didn't really do it again the rest of the drive. This has happened to me before just randomly any thoughts on what it could be, or check/clean.

Also I got the car tuned last fall and have not really driven the car much since the tune. It sat over the winter maybe driven it about a couple dozen times with some start ups and let it run over the winter. The car seems to be running rich now when i got the car back from the tune the a/f gauge read about mid 13's under boost. Now its reading like mid to low 11's. What would cause it to change that much with not really driving it that much and is it fine to drive still as it is?

 

mid-low 11's is what it should be under boost.......mid 13's is waaaaay lean.

 

this..

and did you put fresh gas in it? I usually run some iso-heat on my first tank of the spring and try to run it empty just to get as much water out as possible.

 

I thought I remember the shop where I got it tuned at said mid 13's maybe I just remember wrong and forgot from sitting over the winter. No its still the same gas from last season. Maybe ill add some iso heat to it and try that

 

On Pump Gas 93 if its E10, I tune for 12.0-11.8AFR under WOT boosting.

If its regular 93, 11.5-11.8.

Some tuners will start lean and richen up as RPM / Load progress, this is to increase response and acceleration, you don't want to just dump 10AFRs at WOT right away, gradually going into it will produce a better useable powerband.

 

I have an lsv turbo 10:1 compression about 8 psi and doesn't like a a/f less than 12.5 or it bogs so it kinda depends on the setup

 

Im about the same 10.5:1 ish on 10lbs. Im going to try the iso-heet, and see what happens with that. run the old gas out and put fresh gas in

 

honestly I'd never run richer than 12.5

going too rich can be just as bad as going too lean and can cause a huge increase in EGTs, not to mention wasting fuel in addition to horrible fuel mileage and the possibility of washing the cylinder walls.

I don't know how anyone would ever drive a boosted motor at 10:1... You must be blowing black smoke everywhere.

peak torque is produced at 13.2:1. if you have the right fuel and big enough ***** and a well built motor you can make a motor survive running leaner.

 

Drove the car again today to see and try to pay more attention to it. It did do it again its almost like it cuts in and out and makes the car a little jerky and just like cruising speed. It was at the begging of the drive then it was fine. So i had a open spot and went into boost to see how it did, not full boost. Seemed fine going into boost when i let my food off the gas it did it a little bit again. Cruising speed around 60 mph and 3-4k rpm my wideband gauge looked it was reading 14's to mid 15's and boost it looked like lower 11's. Any thoughts? is it something silly like not getting good spark, or something along the lines of being to lean and causing this? Do i need a new tune even though its less than a year since i got it tuned.

 

Sounds like your blowing out spark maybe? Whats your gap.

List the following;
Fuel
Spark plugs - heat range, gap and ign setup
Fueling, if you have your tables (fuel map and spark map) screen shot and post.
Where is the issue happening ( rpm, tps% etc)

 

Lean afr at cruise/light throttle is perfectly normal. so is mid 11s under boost, what's the afr at wot/full boost?

I don't think your problem is fuel related.. at least not with the hardware. your tune could have issues, it could be due to the hotter weather, humidity, barometric pressure etc. or somehow your tune could have become corrupted.

can you do any datalogging? Values like wideband o2, tps, rpm, mph, boost, knock count, timing advance/retard, total timing, IAT, coolant temp, short term and long term fuel trims, etc. basically any values that have to do with operating the motor.

that way we can get a visual picture of the complete engine operating conditions when this problem starts.

it could be an issue that you'd never see by just looking at afrs. it could be a timing issue (mechanical, software), ignition (coil, igniter, icm, plugs), a table in the ecu or some value in a box isn't correct, and so on.

 

You talking like what octane or company for fuel? Dont have tables not sure of the gap the tuner did that. I can take one out and look at which ones.
ill get in wot on my way home from work and look. No i dont do any datalogging.

 

unless you're gonna stare at a laptop or video the screen we can't really help you unless you start taking things apart. a datalog would give us a visual history of how the motor is running.

 

Stop beating on your car until your tuner or you can provide proper information on this situation. Its obvious the tune is off, or something is causing the tune to be off, datalogs and maps are a must, otherwise, we can't help you.

 

You said the rpms dropped when cruising right? Like the ignition cut out? Im wondering if you have a failing component in the distributor and its causing a weak spark.

 

Well unless he provides us with a datalog or starts testing various components with a multimeter and reporting back there's nothing we can do.

OP, take the car to a reputable local shop and have them troubleshoot the problem. if you keep driving your car and beating on it eventually a small issue will turn into a large one and then you face the real possibility of damaging your motor beyond being operable or even fixable.

 

yeah it dropped down and then went right back. I may have to look into that.

Im not driving it right now so it does not get worse. I'm trying to get my buddy who is a mechanic to come over and take a look at it with me. If no luck with him then i may have to take it to a shop.

 

Stoxk motor as in pistons and rod?
What octane ?
What compression is motor?
How much boost?
How much timing is on that roll of peak boost

You see if your at 12 psi with 13 a/f its OK if u only running 8 degrees of timing max , but if its at 22 degresd it needs to be 10-1 air / fuel and then u get a monster lol

 

Trolling wayy to hard now.

10:1?

12 psi? Never even mentioned a turbo

 

93 octane, the motor is around 10.5:1, 10lbs of boost, and not sure about timing.


I did a little looking around the car and found out that the screw came off of the distributor rotor, and the rotor has a little play in it, so its not snug. That may be problem.

 

Sounds like the problem right there. I had the screw fall out and thought my car busted the timing belt or jumped timing

 

Could the screw coming off cause any timing issues?

 

yup that screw is a big *** problem , misfire ! tighten it as tight as you can by hand, (your tuner should ve told you to do that before dynoing all honda s with dist have that problem!

 

Put one back on and I did. Should I be concerned with timing issues at all now?