my civic smells when i get on it
why does my civic with a b18c1 smell when I get on it? anyway to make it stop? also when I get on it, it smokes but doesn't drip oil on ground. I may have a cam seal leak as well.
+1 for what color smoke...
Fix your cam seal leak, you don't want oil leaking down on your timing belt. Not to mention, if you have oil leaking on the engine/exhaust, you're definitely going to be smelling that as well...
Fix your cam seal leak, you don't want oil leaking down on your timing belt. Not to mention, if you have oil leaking on the engine/exhaust, you're definitely going to be smelling that as well...
the smoke is black. sorry if I posted on the wrong forum, im new to this and new to the import world so forgive a noob. it had heads rebuilt about 15k miles ago.
VegasInvasion in my defense the forum was labeled ENGINE MANAGEMENT and Tuning. So please excuse me maybe everything should be labeled a little bit more indepth if someone wants to make such a hassle about the forum being in the "wrong" place. doesn't matter as long as I get the help. so I don't see such a big deal about it.
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The black smoke indicates that you are burning oil. This can be from many things. I would do a compression test and if you can, a leak down test.
you can get the tester from autozone ... you screw it into a spark plug hole after removing all spark plugs and disconecting the distributor connectors and crank it til the gauge stops going up
dont use any adapters just hand thread it in .. do it for each cylinder
dont use any adapters just hand thread it in .. do it for each cylinder
Good idea to do a compression test as it is just a good way to learn the overall health of the internal engine. If it makes you feel any better I experienced the same problem with my 92 Accord when going about 110 mph. I have no idea if it is blowing smoke since my neck is not long enough to reach around to the back of my car while I'm driving it, but as "fcm" suggested maybe just don't drive like that anymore....I haven't.
One note on compression tests, though, I used to have a 1978 Ford Granada (my beloved baby) that always tested good for compression (you should get values where the lowest cylinder reading is at least 75% of the highest reading, which is to say, FOR EXAMPLE ONLY, if the highest reading is 100, the lowest should be at least 75.) but it still had poor oil control and would soak the spark plugs with oil in a few weeks, which of course lead to all kinds of problems, including smoke from the tailpipe. So a compression test is not the end-all for troubleshooting your problem.
I would definitely check spark plugs and make sure no oil is on either side, either from the bottom (poor oil control/valve guides/piston rings) or the top, which I had until I replaced the valve cover gasket and the LOWER set of o-rings that go where the spark plug tubes are bisected. If you get a good gasket set all the necessary rings will be included. Replacing the lower ones isn't exactly easy, but not impossible - I referred to a video by ErictheCarGuy on YouTube. You must remove the rocker arms to get to them, but it stopped the oil getting between the plug wires and plugs. If you do this, DO NOT LET THE BOLTS FALL OUT OF THE ROCKER ARM ASSEMBLY! I did and watched as the entire thing started to fall apart in front of my eyes.
Hope it helps.
One note on compression tests, though, I used to have a 1978 Ford Granada (my beloved baby) that always tested good for compression (you should get values where the lowest cylinder reading is at least 75% of the highest reading, which is to say, FOR EXAMPLE ONLY, if the highest reading is 100, the lowest should be at least 75.) but it still had poor oil control and would soak the spark plugs with oil in a few weeks, which of course lead to all kinds of problems, including smoke from the tailpipe. So a compression test is not the end-all for troubleshooting your problem.
I would definitely check spark plugs and make sure no oil is on either side, either from the bottom (poor oil control/valve guides/piston rings) or the top, which I had until I replaced the valve cover gasket and the LOWER set of o-rings that go where the spark plug tubes are bisected. If you get a good gasket set all the necessary rings will be included. Replacing the lower ones isn't exactly easy, but not impossible - I referred to a video by ErictheCarGuy on YouTube. You must remove the rocker arms to get to them, but it stopped the oil getting between the plug wires and plugs. If you do this, DO NOT LET THE BOLTS FALL OUT OF THE ROCKER ARM ASSEMBLY! I did and watched as the entire thing started to fall apart in front of my eyes.
Hope it helps.
You have to unplug the injectors or cut power to them.
Imo the best way Is to hook up a starter button from the plug on the starter and the battery.
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