rear disc swap. still lots of friction on brakes
whats up guys, i just completed a rear disc conversion on my 94 civic. i put the 40/40 proportioning valve, new rotors and pads, ran the parking brake cable (not adjusted), bleed the brakes but still lots of friction on the rotors and when the rims are installed it takes alot to spin them when they are up on jack stands. CAN SOMEONE PLEASE HELP? WHAT DID I DO WRONG? WHAT STEP DID I MISS? HOW DO I FIX THE PROBLEM?
THANKS GUYS
THANKS GUYS
Are you positive everything is mounted properly? Right rotors and pads? Is the e-brake cable somehow way too tight? Do you have all the right parts (booster, MC, ect). Have you set everything by pressing the brakes nice and firm so that it lines everything up a little more? Most pads need to be set after installation. Cant hurt to try. My brakes were like what you are saying right after my 5-lug swap and then after going for a slow brief drive everything set in place and it is no longer a problem.
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From: TRILLINOIS....WAY downtown, jerky.
Are the slide pins stuck? Did you turn the piston ALL the way back into its bore when you put new pads/rotors on? Is the e brake cable tight (what does "not adjusted" mean?)? Is the e brake mechanism stuck?
Is the vertical slot on the cross (+) on the brake piston lined up with the round nub on the brake pad?
Is the vertical slot on the cross (+) on the brake piston lined up with the round nub on the brake pad?
Last edited by B serious; May 9, 2014 at 10:34 AM.
Are you positive everything is mounted properly? Right rotors and pads? Is the e-brake cable somehow way too tight? Do you have all the right parts (booster, MC, ect). Have you set everything by pressing the brakes nice and firm so that it lines everything up a little more? Most pads need to be set after installation. Cant hurt to try. My brakes were like what you are saying right after my 5-lug swap and then after going for a slow brief drive everything set in place and it is no longer a problem.
yea calipers and rotors are mounted and torqued correctly. i didnt get the brake booster and master cylinder cause every i looked all the parts list just said to put the proportioning valve. i wanna take it for a drive also cause i thought of that but im worried about everything catching on fire. A five lug swap thats pretty sweet. more rim options
Are the slide pins stuck? Did you turn the piston ALL the way back into its bore when you put new pads/rotors on? Is the e brake cable tight (what does "not adjusted" mean?)? Is the e brake mechanism stuck?
Is the vertical slot on the cross (+) on the brake piston lined up with the round nub on the brake pad?
Is the vertical slot on the cross (+) on the brake piston lined up with the round nub on the brake pad?
i pressed the calipers as far as it would allow. its possible that the sliding pins are stuck they were a little stiff but i didnt think it would cause to much trouble for me. as for E-BRAKE cable i loosened it up all the way cause it thought that is what was causing all the problems but the problem stayed the same as far as the piston and the pad nub goes how do i check to see if they are lined up?
thank both you guys!! i got them to work. it was the guide pins on both sides, lucky me i had some from the doner trailing arms.
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