I've done a bunch of google searches on reviews for camber kits and all I come up with is kids saying you don't them need because "it's not the camber that wears your tires out, it's the toe and the camber helps cornering" blah blah blah. Well, I drag race and camber doesn't help that. I'd like my tires at 0*. I was looking at the Skunk2 pro+ and the Blox arms. Any advice is greatly appreciated.

 

HardRace or Buddy Club are going to be the best quality.

 

Kingpin Machine.

 

Actually you want a little camber in the rear for high speed stability. I've been running my skunk2 for 6-7 years. They work well. Hardrace would be another good choice. Either way upgrade the bushings too while you run there

 

Just sent mine off to get done.

Screw rubber.

I am redoing my whole front end rubber free!

 

Been trying to get PCI solid brass bushings for my upper and lower arms for my civic..
Been waiting on production on them for a good 4-5 months directly through Brian at PCI .. They seem to be a better solution to stock rubber bushings and cheaper than spherical, just gota get ur hands on em

 

Doing the same, my Kingpin stuff should be here tomorrow.

 

I'm not really diggin the hardrace arms. They just look extra chinesey to me. Especially since they are about half the price. They also look like they might have clearance issues. The Buddy clubs look pretty much the same as the skunk2 pro plus, but I think the pro plus looks to have a better bushing setup. I would love to go with a solid setup like I have on my mr2 drag car, but this is a street car and I drive it 60 miles a day with my 4 year old in it. Gotta have bushings.

 

I found 2 more options.
Ingalls:
http://iapdirect.com/96-00-honda-civ...ight-clon.html

and

SPC:
http://iapdirect.com/96-00-honda-civ...l-arm-kit.html

 

Over and over I see people saying to run the stock upper arms, but then how the hell do all the drag racer guys dial in their camber when doing an alignment? What do the pros use? Solid bushings in the factory arms with adjustable ball joints maybe?
http://www.spcalignment.com/componen...AFrom&to=USATo

 

I really like the idea of the caster adjustment on the SPC arms. I see too many people trying to adjust caster with traction bars on a lower control arm with 2 inner pickup points. That makes no sense to me. Honestly I can't see how having solid bushings on the LCA and then with traction bars, also with solid heims, can even work at all without binding on cars with an a-arm style LCA if the traction bar doesn't have some slop. As far as I can tell, that's why EFs have radius rods stock and EKs don't. How could the LCA ever follow the arc of the traction bar when an A-arm, by design, cannot move fore and aft unless by bushing compliance?

 

i use the skunk2 arm up front. they have been holding up good for a few years now. it might be a good idea to use a long bolt and put a nut on it through the top for the ball joint, in case for some freak reason all the allen head bolts come loose or back out.

for the rear, i just use some washers and slightly longer bolts to shim out that upper arm and cancel out some of that negative camber

 

I've had my skunk2 upper in the front of 8-9 years. I recently replaced the ball joints in them as they were worn and boots torn. I upgraded to the better ball joint that screws in from the top instead of the bottom. Still holding strong

 

I'm a machinist and have been eyeballing the PCI. I think in the near future I'm gonna track down some used arms and make my own brass bushing setup for my car, and IG I decided its not enough I may go ahead and replicate the kingpin setup.

 

Bingo. "Traction" bars on a DC/EG with sphericals makes no sense. Once you go to good quality sphericals the traction bar needs to go on ebay.

 

Too bad you aren't a machinist with ethics or morals. Hopefully if you come up with an idea for a business and pour your blood, sweat and tears and untold hundreds of hours for free, some ******* will "replicate" your parts as well.

 

Woah bud no reason to get butthurt over it I don't make any parts for my car to sell to the public. Everything I make for my car is just that.

If you think your the first person to ever do this kind of thing then you're a fool.

I'm a machinist and my brother is an engineer everything possible we can make ourselves we do.

 

Nothing more to add. Your words.

 

Take it as a compliment sorry I can't afford your setup, unlike some people we have a budget that we have to make up for with our skills and abilities.

I assume every time you see someone "replicate" an engine based off of some big names engine, you cry an moan about that to?

I tend to make replacement bolts that I loose for the car, I'll call Honda in the morning and apologize to them.

 

LOL at these guys^^^

Anyway, what do you people think of the SPC arms?
http://www.spcalignment.com/componen...AFrom&to=USATo

I think they're just rebadged Eibach arms. I can't see how they could have any clearance issues like the other brands. There is nothing on top. All of the adjustment comes from the bolts on the side that let the ball joint slide back and forth. Also, they have adjustable caster. A little more caster is good for a drag car and doing it at the top is the proper way instead of binding the hell out of the LCA bushings with "traction" bars.

 

Maybe you should not come onto a huge forum and let it be known that you are going to copy another member's hard work and research? Just a thought. There are some things you should probably keep to yourself.

 

I probably could have made something work, I mean I did build every other part on my car myself but kingpin stuff is second to none and cannot easily be "replicated" trust me I have seen people try and fail miserably... I don't see why anyone would cheap out on a component like this I mean dollar for dollar tenth for tenth these are the absolute best upgrade you can make to a track car.

 

That's great that you guys all have an opinion about whether of not ideas should be copied or not, but what does that have to do with me figuring out what upper control arms to buy? I'd really like some input here people.

 

Ok. So I went with the Skunk2 Pro Plus arms. They just seemed to have a better bushing area design than the competition. The buddy clubs basically looked the same as the regular Skunk2 pro series. I thought the hard race arms looked like every other chinese upper arm in the world just rebadged. Here you go: http://www.alibaba.com/trade/search?...er+control+arm

Go start your own chinese control arm company. LOL
If I were gonna run something like that, I'd say TruHart arms get an honorable mention for improving on the balljoint design.

Now I know there has been a lot of things said about skunk2, but most of what I read is pretty ill-informed. People seem to bash the products because they are made overseas. Well, so are my blue point and mitutoyo tools. Where it's made isn't nearly as much of an issue as who did the engineering and what materials and quality control is specified. Iphones and Xboxs are made in China and people love that ****.

I also read about bushings failing. Most of these arms have rubber bushing with no ability to rotate other than it's twisting compliance. That said, the bolts that mount the bushings shouldn't be tightened until the car is on the ground at ride height or ride height is simulated. I can just picture a bunch of 17 year old kids having their suspension at maximum travel and tightening the bushings down and then taking the car off the stands and having it sit mad JDM hella tucked. The rubber probably tears immediately. It should be noted that the Skunk2 pro plus utilizes freely moving urethane bushings instead of the usual pressed rubber.

 

Keep your factory "bushing brackets" that are on the stock arms. They will fit into the Skunk2 arms if you ever wanted to have Kingpin do the bushings.

Right now I have my new Skunk2 arms bushing-less and my parts car has some shiny new Skunk2 bushings on the factory arms! Lol.