I just traded my da for a eg sedan. it has the d15b7 block with the d16z6 head. I am having trouble when I go to pull out in front of someone it has fuel cut out at about 3 grand. if I drive it normally it doesn't do this. when I had the d16y8 head on it it ran fine. I replaced the fuel filter and the fuel pressure regulator it has new plugs wires and dizzy. I can hear my fuel pump kick on loudly. my cel is on due to the o2 sensor but that's the only code I throw. I haven't checked the fuel injectors yet or the fuel rail. I have never had this problem before. but the dude I traded with hard vtec into the d15b7 harness so im wondering if he possible did it wrong bc vtec also doesn't kick in. if you have any ideas plz let me know. thanx

 

im having the same problem with my 94 coupei dropped an ls into ifi floor itit cuts out around 3k but if i ease it i can take it all the way

 

Is yours throwing a CEL? And maybe, instead of jacking the thread to say "me too", you could list off all pertinent car info and mods? People keep claiming these cut-offs are distributor related.

 

If the CEL is on, how exactly do you know that you haven't thrown another code after the car cuts? A lot of OBD-I cars will drop codes when you turn them off. This is why you fix CEL issues, rather than just letting them sit there.

 

mine has three codes. map sensor vtec solenoid and o2 sensor. im not really worried about my o2 sensor and I just got a map sensor so im gunna try that soon. I know I also need the right harness for that car bc they used a d15b7 harness and hard wired in vtec but they did that wrong my whole wiring harness looks all sorts of messed up. I know its not my dizzy bc I pulled one off my friends eg with the same swap and his car runs fine and my car still did the same thing. has new plugs and wires also

 

Don't post again until you fix all known deficiencies. One of them might actually be responsible for your issue or get fixed along the way.

 

Oh, so you're waiting until post #5 to give us relevant information. Next thing you know, you'll tell us it's running a 75 shot, too

A faulty MAP sensor would certainly cause the car to run in limp mode. Start with that. Before you go replacing the sensor, use a voltmeter to test the wires for resistance/continuity from the ECU to the sensor. There should be little to no resistance.

 

wow you guys don't have to be huge dicks about it I was just asking for help and telling what all ive done along the way!!!

 

Consider this, hypothetically speaking. If the problem is in fact triggering a check engine light that you don't mention on here, how can anyone fully help you solve your problem? That's why it is IMPORTANT to include all relevant information as stated above.

The kicker is that you have now called someone a dick when they were trying to help you WITHOUT all of the relevant information.

 

You post on the 5th and give relevant info on the 12th. Who's helping who?

 

Rules exist for a reason. The rules of this section clearly state that you are expected to give all relevant information in your first post. To be quite frank, considering you don't know what's wrong with your car, you aren't really in a position to decide what is or isn't relevant, so you should tell us everything. Had you told us everything when you created your thread a week ago, you would have been told to resistance test your MAP sensor wiring. We would have told you that a week ago, and your issue might have been solved by today.

There is a natural flow to the way this community works. You can't expect to push against the flow and get a positive result. Life doesn't work that way.