so I just started piecing together a turbo kit for the lsvtec im building. all I got so far was injectors and a turbo. the turbo I got is a stock caliber srt4 turbo with an internal wastegate and recirculation valve. I was looking for some opinions on using this turbo and if it is fine to use its recirculation valve or should I get a block off plate for it and use a bov- thanks

 

Why?

 

Unless that turbo has a t3 or t4 flange it may cause a lot of issues for the rest of kit and it may put the turbo at an angle u don't want since internal waste-gates requires modification for clocking the turbo

 

that's the turbo

 

because I got it trading some old parts I had kiking around so was basicly free, I don't think it does because its a 5 bolt flange

 

it's supposed be to attached to the exhaust manifold... the turbine housing is cast as one piece with the exhaust manifold

and people don't make separate housings for those so really you're screwed

 

so what your saying is that it wont seal to another manifold ? because this turbo was replaced by another one because the waste gate wasn't working.

 

It was replaced on an SRT4 correct? Don't understand how you think this would translate (easily or at all) to a Honda or how you thought it would work in the first place that you traded for it.

 

because people use factory turbos from other cars all the time to make cheap home made kit. thanks for your opinion

 

Not as many as you think, unless they have a talent for fabrication.

Unfortunately, you fell for the "I got it for free, so its gotta work".
Remember this as a general rule of thumb regarding many OEM turbos. The reason you got it for free, was because the person you bought it from couldn't use it either.

Time to try another idea.. but good luck to you.

 

alright well that sucks, but just to clarify things why exactly cant I use it

 

Because you won't be able to mount it to your engine without extensive fabrication, as Shodan already said.

 

because the srt4 engine exhaust manifold is no where near like a honda manifold. cylinder spacing and bolt pattern are all wrong.

this should have the oem exhaust manifold on it if the turbine housing is on the turbo. you can't just cut it off and weld it to something else, welding cast doesn't work that way

and you'll be hard pressed to find a typical turbine housing that fits the turbine wheel

 

Caliber SRT4, not a Neon SRT4. Not cast into the manifold



wouldn't be worth it unless you had the downpipe and manifold to hack the flanges off

 

I always love pictures of OEM turbos - the flanges are so ******* weird sometimes.

 

I have a guy who can waterjet or plasma cut flanges based off of a gasket.

but you'll never find a production turbo manifold to fit the thing, anything will be 100% custom including the downpipe

and even then the caliber uses a tiny turbo.. a TD04HL4S-20TK32SF-F11.0 to be exact

Compressor wheel
27.43mm inducer
58mm exducer

58mm turbine wheel
11cm turbine housing

the actuator is set at somewhere between 12-15psi if it's a us market turbo. They are rated to a pressure ratio of 3.16bar or around 31psi but you'll never make that much and after 20 they just blow hot air.

the caliber guys can't make more than 18psi on the top end as boost tapers off and on the 2.4 power tanks after about 5200ish. it might be good for 250hp or so at most with strong midrange but don't expect it to be a top end monster. the small compressor induced is what will kill power not to mention the tiny turbine wheel.

honestly by the time you pay for and wait to receive a custom manifold and downpipe you could've sold that turbo for a fair amount on eBay or some dodge forum if it's in good shape and gone with a much more affordable, proven solution. not to mention a readily available option

but since you haven't told us **** like what motor it's going on, what your power goal is, what the purpose for the car is, budget, etc. we can't tell you **** about anything.

 

Would be going on a mostly.stock lsvtec with arp rod and head bolts. Not looking for huge power 300 at the most. That's ok with me cause I.wanted a strong mid range amd fast spooling turbo

 

I was priety sure.I was gona.need a custom.manifold anyway. I work at a dodge dealer so I should be able to track down some flages and.if I can't.I'll get some made from some gaskets I have a good idea were I can.get it done for a reasonable price. My main question was let's say I did use the turbo could I run it with its resuculadtion valve or should I just get the 15$ block off plate and get a blow off valve

 

Try it. You didn't hear a word anyone said to you. By the time you do all the fabbing and hackery you could have bought a bolt-on setup.

 

Remove the block off plate from your brain and listen to everyone telling you not to use that turbo. Go find a 2876 and a log manifold and have a proper setup.

 

if you really are trying to do this cheap, keep the bypass valve. You'll still need a manifold, oil lines, downpipe, IC piping, injectors/pump and a tune. Find a turbo-less kit in the FI FS section. I'm not too sure that you're going to be able to fit that thing in there very well though...

 

it won't make 300.

just because it works on 2.4l motor doesn't mean anything. The 2.4 motor has a notoriously shitty head. Our heads flow incredibly well and have high volumetric efficiency (a boost b series vtec motor can be over 110%)

and the srt4 guys were having a hard time even making 18psi... on any vtec honda motor you'll have an even harder time maintaining high boost pressures.

You might get 250 out of it but thats it. a turbo that small wouldn't make 300 at 18psi

 

for the people who were actualy helpful thanks you, I may just wait and get a complete go autoworks kit since its my first time messing around with turbos and sell this to some caliber guy for a spare

 

I mean this would be an awesome turbo for a single cam for sure. I think it would make decent midrange on an lsvtec but i think top end would suffer

see what they are selling for on ebay and go from there. If it's in good shape you could make a decent amount of money selling it on ebay.

 

Oddly enough I own and drive a SRT4 and just so those who read this know what your saying is directly from manufactures specs ( like good job reading the brochure type stuff ). However, plenty of us SRT4 guys boost way over manufacture specs and hold it. Im tuned at over 20 it holds and I have zero issues. I know others who also are boosting at over 24 and holding...

Our cars produce at stock 285hp but I know of plenty who at stock are producing 305hp with out touching them.

There is a good amount of fabrication involved but unless the guy want to go with a ebay kit ( hope not ) then the cost of a legit kit compared to mocking up your own is really not comparable. Of course some people have deep discounts and or free parts, but to the typical joe blow.... its way easier to mock up a kit than buy new.

I put a turbo off of a camry that was racing at a local strip, onto a sentra only running 5-6 pounds of boost ( not even worth it really ). but a kit ( universal ) was more expensive than the kit I built and it worked flawless.

I said all of that to simply say that when people ask for help, I always stress to not tell them it cannt be done, but give advise on how it can be done, if you dont know how to do it then dont comment.

I hope no one gets butt hurt over my post, but I just dont like to see facts given when they are wrong, and then the guy not getting any help much other than you cannt do this, dont do that...

Also, I would suggest watching the series by Mighty Car Mods guys... they turboed a miata, and put a blower on a mini cooper... They are very good reference for what you might encounter...

Just trying to provide some decent help....

Anything can be done, it just depends on your knowledge and how deep your pockets are