98 honda accord ex 4 cylinder not starting
Alright i have seen thread after thread about this problem.
The car is turning over but not starting.
Fuses are all good.
The car is getting spark and it has fuel pressure.
I have changed the ignition switch.
I can here the main relay click when turning the key on.
The immobilizer is reading the key. Green key light comes on the goes off like i read it should do.
The only thing i have noticed is where the key goes is has some play. I noticed that key has some play between the off and 1. so when the door is open the car will be beeping at me and then when i move it just a hair up the beeping stops.
Could my problem be where the key goes in is wore out?
Im thinking i need the full assembly bellow, what do yall think?
Of course if this is my issue how can i program the keys to the car?
http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/se...21s%21assembly

 

Check for any stored codes.

If you know the lock cylinder is bad you may as well replace it since it needs to be replaced.

 

Hi I have a 97 accord with similar no start trouble,if I disconnect the battery then reconnect it the car will start once, maybe twice, then wont start again. It has fire, new main relay, can hear fuel pump, checked all grounds, previous owner replaced control module, plugs, wires , and battery. What could it be?

 

could be a film around the battery post .. could be hard to see

 

My 96 Honda Accord will not start. I have spark to plugs. I replaced the main relay and fuel pump. The ECM is not activating the main relay to activate the fuel pump. Any ideas?

 

there should be voltage at the black/yellow wire at the dizzy when cranking or key on. if no voltage replace lock cylinder may not be making contact.

 

What is the "dizzy"

 

distributor

 

The spark plugs are getting fire. So I assume that there is voltage to the distributor.

 

are you getting full 12 volts at the black/yellow? bad switch equal resistance. resistance higher impedance. harder to develop full 12 volts of spark my car never started when my old battery was under 12 volts once i tried to crank it it dropped to 10 volts and never started. and just because you see spark doesn't mean its enough to actually light the fuel and air mixture. you need a spark tester that lets gap the spark so you can push the maximum output of the coil. this also could be done with a screw driver lightly pushed into the spark plug wire and set the screw driver at a distance from something metal so you can see spark distance and color. check compression as well. you say there is fuel pressure, but are the injectors opening when you crank it for a while and take out the spark plug do they smell like fuel??? also check timing

 

The car was running fine one day and the next it didn't. I sprayed starter fluid in the intake and the engine sputtered. I have had a battery charger on the battery and it turns over at a good rate. It checked out the new main relay and it is good. When I turn the key to the second position the fuel pump does not turn on. I have tested the f/p and it work when there is power to it. I am wondering if the ecm is bad.

 

so you are not getting voltage to the pump? when you put power to the fuel pump it runs? have you done the main relay test with a dmm?

 

you said there was fuel but now you are saying that the pump is not running

 

when i hot wire the main relay the f/p turns on. I ran a diagnostic and the new main relay checks out good.

 

Holmes is the main relay layout the same as the cb and cd and bb?

 

yes its the same .. sounds like the ecu is bad going by your test results

im guessing you used this site ...

http://techauto.tripod.com/