curb hit need help
Hit a curb the other day trying to avoid a collision in the rain ended up sliding into
the curb and bent my rim.it was lumpy but i made it home. So then changed my
rim,and the rim in not centered correctly its pushed back more compared to the
drivers side. what may have i damaged ? by the looks it looks like the sway bar i
is bent. can this cause it to be pushed back more. any help with be greatfull
thnx
1997 ex cuope
the curb and bent my rim.it was lumpy but i made it home. So then changed my
rim,and the rim in not centered correctly its pushed back more compared to the
drivers side. what may have i damaged ? by the looks it looks like the sway bar i
is bent. can this cause it to be pushed back more. any help with be greatfull
thnx
1997 ex cuope
Cool Cool Island Breezes. BOY-EE
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From: TRILLINOIS....WAY downtown, jerky.
You probably bent your lower control arm, subframe, or knuckle.
Probably your lower control arm if your swaybar looks bent. Swaybars aren't load bearing parts. So you need to bend quite a few other things to bend a sway bar from a collision.
Probably your lower control arm if your swaybar looks bent. Swaybars aren't load bearing parts. So you need to bend quite a few other things to bend a sway bar from a collision.
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Your bushings may be bad too, but I can't tell.
can you jack up the front of the car and try to check everything with a ridged metal meter/yard stick? This would be a good way to check if your subframe is bent. You have to compare it to the car itself like the firewall or radiator support if that isn't bent.
if it seems tweaked whatsoever, I suggest getting one plus lower control arms, knuckles (spindle hub bearings), swaybar, new swaybar links (5$ each).
if your struts are bad/bent/old might as well try for those too. OEM struts are good, but they're leaking or clearly broken dont pay for em. Same goes for your rack if it leaks or feels mesed up.
these are the things most likely to bend hitting a curb, IMO. Yes, everything. It all absorbs the damage. Along with your tires and wheels..
if you get it pulled out ready for pick up it shouldn't cost more than 300$. Maybe 500$ with rack struts upper control arms + ball joints, but only if every thing is pristine condition no tears in bushings no leaky struts non rusty subframe/control arms etc.
shouldn't cost more than
can you jack up the front of the car and try to check everything with a ridged metal meter/yard stick? This would be a good way to check if your subframe is bent. You have to compare it to the car itself like the firewall or radiator support if that isn't bent.
if it seems tweaked whatsoever, I suggest getting one plus lower control arms, knuckles (spindle hub bearings), swaybar, new swaybar links (5$ each).
if your struts are bad/bent/old might as well try for those too. OEM struts are good, but they're leaking or clearly broken dont pay for em. Same goes for your rack if it leaks or feels mesed up.
these are the things most likely to bend hitting a curb, IMO. Yes, everything. It all absorbs the damage. Along with your tires and wheels..
if you get it pulled out ready for pick up it shouldn't cost more than 300$. Maybe 500$ with rack struts upper control arms + ball joints, but only if every thing is pristine condition no tears in bushings no leaky struts non rusty subframe/control arms etc.
shouldn't cost more than
My first guess would be the lower control. You may not really be able to tell untill you put it next to a new one and see how obvious it really is. Inspect along the frame and make sure its not bent, is your fender lined up fine? Does the gaps match the drivers side for the good and door? i would look at easy things like that first. Your sway bar is spring steel, they usually don't bend unless it has been heated first so if something is pulling it back then it should spring back into place. You can check the "dirt" lines around the sway bar bushings on both sides of the car. Inspect the subframe and its bolts to see if anything is bent or shifted. The upper arm should be fine because the strut tower will give a little bit. look at your rack and pinion and see if its shifted any.
If i was to look it over and not be able to tell whats bent or shifted i would get a new lower arm off ebay for cheap unless there is one at a junkyard near you. and compare the two to see if its bent. if not you can always send it back. Or install the new one and see if its fixed! and go from there. In my opinion the less money it takes to fix a car the better. You can always go back and change the bushings and sway bar links, but the main thing i would think is getting it back on the road.
Make sure you soak the bolts in pb blaster and be careful not to snap off the heads.
Also am i seeing this wrong?????
If i was to look it over and not be able to tell whats bent or shifted i would get a new lower arm off ebay for cheap unless there is one at a junkyard near you. and compare the two to see if its bent. if not you can always send it back. Or install the new one and see if its fixed! and go from there. In my opinion the less money it takes to fix a car the better. You can always go back and change the bushings and sway bar links, but the main thing i would think is getting it back on the road.
Make sure you soak the bolts in pb blaster and be careful not to snap off the heads.
Also am i seeing this wrong?????
Why do you want a part number? They're aprox. 50$ from summit/rock auto. Pull em out and replace.
I just pulled out my subframe to replace em along with the entire front suspension.
paid 300$ for LCA, ball joints, UCA w/ ball joints, sway bar links, and I got a shim kit for the hell of it incase the alignment shop needs em. Advanced wanted 600$ but I had em price match rock auto.
I got a subframe from an Integra too, since a cap nut broke off of mine. Freakin 1 dumb nut cost me a 50$ subframe and 2 hrs labor (took me 3 1/2 the first time).
I just pulled out my subframe to replace em along with the entire front suspension.
paid 300$ for LCA, ball joints, UCA w/ ball joints, sway bar links, and I got a shim kit for the hell of it incase the alignment shop needs em. Advanced wanted 600$ but I had em price match rock auto.
I got a subframe from an Integra too, since a cap nut broke off of mine. Freakin 1 dumb nut cost me a 50$ subframe and 2 hrs labor (took me 3 1/2 the first time).
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