2001 accord EX 4-Cyl, ULEV, 2.3 Liter hesitation/stall
Car was running great then all of a sudden it wouldn't start. Mechanic diagnosed and replaced the entire distributor. Starts just fine now, but when taking off from a stop sign or traffic light the rpm's dip before coming back up, sometimes dipping so far that it stalls out. Also sounds like pinging when it does this. I called as I was heading home and they said since it came in non-running it could be anything and not necessarily the new distributor causing it. I know the car was running just fine before the new distributor and they are saying they may have to charge me another diagnostic fee. I am thinking BS, so could the timing be off or something that I can adjust on the new distributor so I don't have to take it back to these scam artists? The timing belt was changed a couple years ago and like I said it had no hesitation before the new distributor. Please advise thanks, Damian
Ignition timing is non adjustable on your car. Ask them to replace the distributor. Also, any time you have your car worked on and someone wants to replace a part, tell them beforehand you want the old part back. They may tell you they are going to use a remanufactured so they need to send the old part back in, just tell them you want a new part, not a reman part then.
I would go back and tell them that you want to do a warranty claim on the distributor you bought because it has caused drivability issues. They may choose to find the problem at that point for free. If they really fight you on this, then just go somewhere else and eat the money you paid them. It sounds to me like they created another problem to get more money out of you. There are shops out there that do that.
After these issues are over, make sure never to go back there again since they clearly don't stand behind their work.
I would go back and tell them that you want to do a warranty claim on the distributor you bought because it has caused drivability issues. They may choose to find the problem at that point for free. If they really fight you on this, then just go somewhere else and eat the money you paid them. It sounds to me like they created another problem to get more money out of you. There are shops out there that do that.
After these issues are over, make sure never to go back there again since they clearly don't stand behind their work.
I asked for the part they said they needed it for a core charge. I am afraid to try and deal with them again as they are already spouting off that another diagnostic charge will be needed. Any clues to what could be wrong? Something I may be able to fix? Thanks
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