CR-V 2001 replacing front brakes and rear brake shoes
This week I'm thinking of replacing my front brakes (pads/rotors) and rear brake shoes and I have a couple questions on buying the parts needed for it. Should I buy the parts on this website http://www.1aauto.com/1A/brake-pad-a...Fc1afgod5gIAZQ, they have the best price that I've seen but I'm worried that it might be poor quality parts or should go to my local NAPA auto store. Also does it make a difference having a OEM part or aftermarket part for the brakes/paying a higher price, and is there a good video/tutorial on how to change the brakes.
You get what you pay for! Don't skip out and go cheap on brakes! Spend a decent amount of money on some quality parts oem or aftermarket! Brakes are very important in imo or at least to me on my cars as everything else just things some more than others
. They are both easy to do imo other than rusted, stuck, rounded bolts, nuts, screw etc as some maintenance are. But if you got the right tools any job should be easy reguardless. Have someone who knows their **** teach and show you how to or google and youtube how to videos etc and if you don't have a very good understanding and idea on how to...BEST to leave it to the pros or someone who knows their ****! GL
. They are both easy to do imo other than rusted, stuck, rounded bolts, nuts, screw etc as some maintenance are. But if you got the right tools any job should be easy reguardless. Have someone who knows their **** teach and show you how to or google and youtube how to videos etc and if you don't have a very good understanding and idea on how to...BEST to leave it to the pros or someone who knows their ****! GL
I agree with above post. Do not ever cheap out on brakes or tires, as they are the most important parts on your car.
I would buy a pair of Wagner Thermoquiet front brake pads and rear shoes. I run them with my Wagner rotors and they work fantastic, stop fast (With good tires of course), and with very minimal brake dust. You can usually pick these up at your local Advance Auto. Make sure to use their coupon codes if you can find some, as you can get some sweet deals!
Here is a good video on the front:
And the rear:
Good luck!
I would buy a pair of Wagner Thermoquiet front brake pads and rear shoes. I run them with my Wagner rotors and they work fantastic, stop fast (With good tires of course), and with very minimal brake dust. You can usually pick these up at your local Advance Auto. Make sure to use their coupon codes if you can find some, as you can get some sweet deals!
Here is a good video on the front:
And the rear:
Good luck!
I always use ceramic brake pads.
I always take apart the pins and clean and relube. The metal brake pad "sliders" that clip into the caliper i always clean with a wire brush and lube that as well. Permatex purple ceramic brake lube is the best!

IDK about where you live, but down here, theres either an old person or some chic on a cell phone that just pulls out in front of me. Having good brakes is a must.
Also tires has alot to do with brake performance. Alot of people cheap out on the part of the car that touches the ground. No bueno!
I always take apart the pins and clean and relube. The metal brake pad "sliders" that clip into the caliper i always clean with a wire brush and lube that as well. Permatex purple ceramic brake lube is the best!
IDK about where you live, but down here, theres either an old person or some chic on a cell phone that just pulls out in front of me. Having good brakes is a must.
Also tires has alot to do with brake performance. Alot of people cheap out on the part of the car that touches the ground. No bueno!
Thanks for the reply's! Both of the videos were great and how does brake bleeding work, will I need to get new brake fluid? Also has anybody heard good reviews about these http://www.autoanything.com/brakes/61A5870A0A0.aspx brakes?
Also I've heard that you should loosen the lug nuts on the wheel before you jack the car up and tighten them when the wheels are back on the ground, is this true or does it matter?
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What I did in the past was use a brake hose clamp like this:
http://www.harborfreight.com/4-piece...set-65116.html
When you crack open the bleeder, it wont let the air up in the line.
then push pedal and release the clamp. I used a piece of vacuum line and a water bottle to bleed the cruddy fluid until it bled clear.
If you fluid is brown or black, it should be changed. Do this at all 4 corners.
http://www.harborfreight.com/4-piece...set-65116.html
When you crack open the bleeder, it wont let the air up in the line.
then push pedal and release the clamp. I used a piece of vacuum line and a water bottle to bleed the cruddy fluid until it bled clear.
If you fluid is brown or black, it should be changed. Do this at all 4 corners.
Thanks for the reply's! Both of the videos were great and how does brake bleeding work, will I need to get new brake fluid? Also has anybody heard good reviews about these http://www.autoanything.com/brakes/61A5870A0A0.aspx brakes?
. I run Wagner rotors and Wagner Thermoquiet Ceramic brake pads. They work wonders with all the "wonderful" drivers up here in the DC metropolitan area that think they are too good for blinkers and paying attention.this is the bleeder kit I bought to replace my fluid recently. worked great and made it a easy job.
I just wanted to update this post. I successfully changed the front brakes and would definitely recommend the Wagner pads/rotors. Next on my list is to replace the brake shoes and bleed it later this year. The only problem with changing the front brakes was a lug nut seized on me as I was taking it if off and sheared, fortunately there was enough thread to put a new lug nut on. As far as replacing the stud should I do this sooner than later?
I just wanted to update this post. I successfully changed the front brakes and would definitely recommend the Wagner pads/rotors. Next on my list is to replace the brake shoes and bleed it later this year. The only problem with changing the front brakes was a lug nut seized on me as I was taking it if off and sheared, fortunately there was enough thread to put a new lug nut on. As far as replacing the stud should I do this sooner than later?

Now for your broken lug....
Good thing you can at least get some part of a lug on the broken stud. I would suggest changing it though, just to be on the safe side (even though I did drive on 3 studs for a little bit, stupid tire place...
). Driving around without proper studs could work the lugs lose. Unfortunately, changing out the front lug studs on that particular CR-V is a PITA. There is not an easy access hole. You either have to pull the hub out, or grind down part of the bolt and knuckle to slide it in. Thats what I, and most of us that had that problem have done.Do a quick search for it, as it has been mentioned plenty of times. There are also many how-tos on it.
Good luck!
Harbor Freight sells a decent air-powered bleeder kit for the home mechanic
This enables you to bleed brakes alone
http://www.harborfreight.com/brake-f...der-92924.html
This enables you to bleed brakes alone
http://www.harborfreight.com/brake-f...der-92924.html
When I did mine, I actually used a vacuum bleeder like this:
http://www.harborfreight.com/mityvac...ump-39522.html
Made it super easy with no pedal pushing, and the pump can be used for a bunch of other things.
Make sure to use a 25% off coupon on it!
http://www.harborfreight.com/mityvac...ump-39522.html
Made it super easy with no pedal pushing, and the pump can be used for a bunch of other things.
Make sure to use a 25% off coupon on it!
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jxhxb
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Jul 13, 2009 04:55 AM



