Ok so I recently slammed my car, lower than I have ever been. Its a 95 civic dx. My wheel specs are 16x7 +37. I have ground control/koni yellows. I recently got my car aligned and here are what my camber specs are: Front Left: -3.7 Front Right: -3.5 Left Rear: -3.2 Right Rear: -3.5

The car has been handling weird since I dropped it so much like the front end is too loose. Everyone keeps telling me to get camber kits but could I have some kind of frame damage. Is this negative camber usual from just a drop?

 

If you are slammed....those numbers look right.

What does handling weird and "feels loose" mean exactly. More details...


Something to read if you wanted https://honda-tech.com/forums/suspension-brakes-54/no-you-do-not-need-camber-kits-2614449/

 

what do your caster numbers look like?

 

So when I jerk the wheel to the right or left, it feels as if the rear isnt really attached to the car. Like the front turns first then the rear comes back and straightens out. And this happened after a hit a NASTY dip on the hwy and threw up sparks. I had it realigned and we could not find anything out of the ordinary. And I did the inner and outer tie rods on both sides before everything as well.

 

Caster is .6

 

That is how slammed cars handle. Especially if your camber is way off to the point of treading into the toe limits when you turn. The more your tires wear unevenly the worse this feel will get until you feel like you're riding a boat and your steering rack starts eating itself along with your tie rods. When you start killing axles is when you should consider bringing the car up after wasting all of that money to fix everything twice.


edit: Frame damage is not hard to check, just pull your fenders and bumper off and look at the rails they are clearly visible. If you see spider webbing in the paint or what looks like stretch marks in the metal you know it has frame damage.

 

Im going to buy some camber kits and try and get it to about -2 degrees all the way around. Ill probably need to raise it up a tad but I do not feel like destroying parts either.

 

As long as your tie rods and axles are siding loading they will experience greater than normal wear. Increased side loading occurs when the axle is in a straight line and you're driving it on the street where the whole assembly is being flexed and pushed every time you turn or go over any significant roads that cause the suspension to actually flex.

Doesn't matter if you have fixed the camber or not. Those parts were simply not designed to handle the side loading that they will experience with a lowered car. Upgrading both solves the problem temporarily but it causes issues elsewhere, as the spherical bushings to solve the tie-rod issue do not last long on the street, and the axles cost at least 300 for a pair that can handle greater side loads.