Hello guys, I am brand new to this forum!

Later tonight I will be removing my cylinder head to take to a machine shop in the morning. Then tomorrow after school I will be spending time cleaning the Engine bay, Replacing the entire Exhaust (manifold included) and changing all my cooling hoses to their red silicone counterparts, as well as replacing the head gasket, exhaust gaskets, and intake manifold gaskets. If you guys could post any critical things that I need to make sure I do, that would be a huge help! I will be posting pictures and asking questions as I go. One thing That I would like to know is using any Gasket maker to supplement the head gasket. I have seen some use ~Permatex® Ultra Copper® Maximum Temperature RTV Silicone Gasket Maker - See more at: http://www.permatex.com/products-2/p....Ebs9j3Za.dpuf ~
Some use razor blades to clean the surface of the block that mates with the head, some use 220 sandpaper on a block. anything guys that would help would be awesome!

Also, I have never done an exhaust switch, but it seems pretty straight forward. Anyways, thanks in advance to those who reply and help a beginner get his roots started!

 

Don't use anything beyond the OEM head gasket - no copper ****. Use new head bolts/studs. If you haven't already, buy/borrow/download a factory service manual and follow it TO THE LETTER.

 

Here are some pics of the Job. Catalytic converter bolt is tight as ****!!! Can't get it loose. Put some WD40 and let it sit over night.

 

This, along with the rest of the kit is what will be installed today! (If I can get that damn Cat off.

 

There's the Cylinder Head!

 

There is the Exhaust system (new on right) (old on left)

 

How much do these go for nowadays? I'm keeping it in case I move to a place that does Inspections -_-

 

GUYS! Need help. I need to get to the Timing Belt, which is underneath these two wheels. I have seen the use of a compression gun or something. I head of a place where you can rent a tool for this. But I have no idea what the name is or anything. Any information that would help would be appreciated!!

 

you really need a "crank pulley holder" 25$ at most part stores or less, 2nd thing you need is a 3/4'' drive 3-4ft breaker bar and a 17mm socket and a 1/2'' drive 2ft bar to hold the pulley holder.


they're called "impact guns" the good ones are far from cheap same with the compressors to power them.

 

As for cleaning your block, I wouldn't suggest using razor blades, a single nick and it's that much harder to get the gasket to seal. What I've usually seen the pros use is white roloc bristle discs with a pneumatic die grinder.

 

Side question, what constitutes a good impact gun? I've seen some pneumatic ones at Canadian Tire for a little over 50 bucks that say they do around 450 ft-lbs of torque. This isn't average or an okay torque? I don't know that much about impact guns.

 

Hey i can relate to the crank pulley.
im actually in a middle of something similar to your project. (doin hg, tb, most of maintenance parts)
Ive tried the special honda hex crank pully tool and my crank pulley wouldn't get enough friction.

I would suggest u go and look for a "Chain wrench" it works like a vice grip but it ACTUALLY WORKED.

ive tried a normal home use compressor with a $200 IR impact gun, no work. and my only options were Tow it to a real shop with a real compressor and more expensive impact gun OR get a $50 chain wrench and do it at home


i didnt know about the chain wrench until i paid a local "FB" group (kind of like a CL, but on FB) to take it off, he used the chain wrench i mentioned and he got it off in 3 minutes from "i timed it, i started it right when he touched my car and when it was off, took him 3 minutes total.

looks like this


from what i got suggested from my build thread

IR GUN or save up for one, it seems IR is top dog impact guns

 

the maximum reverse torque is what you're looking for, but if you already have a compressor make sure the gun isn't over kill by that I mean look at the CFM rating and working air pressure then have a look at the specs on your tank. I highly recommend getting a gun first then getting a compressor to match what the gun needs to "function" without having to pause every 10 mins. I looked at those when I first started seemed good 50$ and 450 ft-lbs considering my breaker bar had a 300 ft-lb rating and I hadn't snapped it yet, the thing is many of those guns can't actually do 450 etc more like high 300's if you're lucky. The first gun I bought was a Ingersoll Rand 2350xp rated at 690ft-lbs it couldn't break the pulley bolt loose on my 99 dx and the 10gal compressor I had wasn't helping. So I saved up and got a 40gal one on boxing day this year and a IR 2145Qi 3/4'' drive at 1,350 ft-lbs of reverse TQ nothing has beat it yet lol. if you're not planning on axel nuts or pulley bolts those ones are fine but I like the added insurance. check out princess auto I pieced together that set up for under a grand ! normally I'd be out 2 for it.

Cliffs: shop grade guns like IR require rather large compressors with a good duty cycle 40+gal to never have to wait when doing a big job ex:clutch DIY/weekend mechanic: you can use ones from Canadian tire and such paired with a 15-25gal compressor and be happy with the time saved.

 

i have done quite a few head gaskets/swaps without needing to touch the pulley. ever. SOMETIMES i loosen the tensioner, but usually the belt can be slid off of the cam gear and back on.