Installed engine new dizzy checked all grounds and timing was dead on, all it does is crank not even trying to kick

#1 dry 70. Wet 100
#2 dry 90. Wet 110
#3 dry.85. Wet 107
#4 dry 68. Wet 97

New piston and rings std
Cylinder was honed

Original head just added new int and ext valves, valves were lapped

Ready to just go buy a salvage engine

Any ideas

Thinking of just pumping air into each cylinder and listening

 

You need to do a leakdown test to confirm, but it looks like your ring job was done by Edward Scissorfingers. Those are not "new" numbers by any stretch of the imagination. Did you replace valve stem seals?

 

Yes new valve stem seal, i set the rings according to the honda spec top ring at 11 2nd at 1
Top oil ring 7:30 and the 2nd oil ring at 5:30 and the middle oil swallow at 6

 

Did you check and set the valve lash after assembly?

 

Placement of rings != properly installed rings. You also need to make sure your ring gap is correct, and given those compression numbers...it isn't.

 

Sorry there new std pistons and rings

New Crowler springs and all new in text valves lapped to original head

 

You already said that. Just because they're new doesn't mean they're properly gapped. Not every cylinder is the same - proper motor rebuilding involves a lot of precision measurements for ring gaps and P2W clearances.

 

 

I have built many sbc bbc sbc and Bbf I have never had to worry about checking ring gaps when you buy quality piston and rings

But tomorrow I will recheck the valve adjustment, and yes I should have set the head out but i just want this car to disappear and get my son something a little newer, but he is stuck on this car

 

If the valve seats were cut or the valves were ground by the machine shop, the valve would now sit higher in the cylinder head. This means that the adjustment tappets on the valve tip are now TIGHTER than they were previously... and it is imperative that a valve adjustment be done to bring the gap back into spec. This is a COMMON overlooked problem after a cylinder head is "freshened" by a machine shop. I suspect that this is in fact more likely your problem... and the probability of a set of standard bore pistons and unknown ring gaps coupled with a basic hone is the NEXT step. Adjust the valves first... if they are too tight, set the proper lash and re-crank the car. If it doesn't start... re-check your compression numbers. If they are essentially the same as before... then the ring/piston/hone issues are viable.

Good luck.

 

You can build as many motors as you want. If you aren't measuring ring gap and P2W clearances, you're building them all wrong.