Ef d16z6 won't run
I recently installed a d16z6 motor in my ef sedan. The car started as a dpfi d15b2 setup. I converted to mpfi about a year ago and all was well. So doing the d16z6 swap meant just adding vtec wires and 4 wire o2. I replaced all seals, timing belt, water pump and plugs. The motor had low miles. Once swap was complete, it started no problem. It was throwing 4 cels (3,6,7 & 10). Took it for a test spin and it bogged like crap. So, after that I realized that I had forgotten to remove the paint from the valve cover from me painting it. No prob… I disconnect the battery to reset the ECU and clean the paint off meanwhile. Put everything back together and car won’t run. It starts and try’s to run for 0.5 sec. I pull the codes and now I’m throwing only 2 (6 &10). I checked for fuel by cracking the firewall filter, got fuel. Main relay clicks and pump primes. I then pull plug No. 1. It is wet with fuel, but has a nice white spark when tested. Not sure what to try now. My MIL light will stay on when the key is in second position. But as soon as you activate the service jumper it reads the 2 codes. So not a fried ECU I don’t think. Is there a way to check for timing with having to remove the upper tbelt cover on these motors? Any help would be great. Oh, and I already checked all the grounds, and added one from G101 to firewall.
Probably get more help in the EF section:
https://honda-tech.com/forums/honda-crx-ef-civic-1988-1991-3/
And more importantly:
https://honda-tech.com/forums/honda-crx-ef-civic-1988-1991-3/how-pull-clear-cel-codes-your-obd0-ecu-3097979/
CEL Codes:
3- Map sensor
6- Coolant temp
7- Throttle position
10- Intake air temp
Your car won't run right with a code 3. The MAP is very important. It will bog and be crap. You probably don't have it hooked up correctly or the plugs swapped on it and the TPS. (I think) Check that for sure. Also check your grounds at the thermostat housing, transmission and valve cover. I would always start with the codes and work from there. No reason to check for fuel when your engine is throwing a big warning at you.
As for timing. Take a clean, thin, rod and put it down the spark plug hole in cylinder #1. Rotate the crank with the wheels off the ground until you find the spot where the rod sticks out the most. That is TDC. It should line up perfectly with the mark on the crank for TDC. A timing light will show you the running timing. You move the distributor to adjust that portion.
https://honda-tech.com/forums/honda-crx-ef-civic-1988-1991-3/
And more importantly:
https://honda-tech.com/forums/honda-crx-ef-civic-1988-1991-3/how-pull-clear-cel-codes-your-obd0-ecu-3097979/
CEL Codes:
3- Map sensor
6- Coolant temp
7- Throttle position
10- Intake air temp
Your car won't run right with a code 3. The MAP is very important. It will bog and be crap. You probably don't have it hooked up correctly or the plugs swapped on it and the TPS. (I think) Check that for sure. Also check your grounds at the thermostat housing, transmission and valve cover. I would always start with the codes and work from there. No reason to check for fuel when your engine is throwing a big warning at you.
As for timing. Take a clean, thin, rod and put it down the spark plug hole in cylinder #1. Rotate the crank with the wheels off the ground until you find the spot where the rod sticks out the most. That is TDC. It should line up perfectly with the mark on the crank for TDC. A timing light will show you the running timing. You move the distributor to adjust that portion.
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