2 months ago i replaced my main relay bc i heard a clicking in the dash n the car was shutting off for a quick second. i replaced it and about a week later it started again but spiratically. then today the car just totally stopped. i turn the key n it just sounds like its turning but not sparking or not getting fuel. any ideas?

since i replaced the main relay is there another reason for that clicking and the car shutting down for that quick second? im assuming it not starting now has something to do with it. but i really dont know. i replaced the cap rotor wires and fuel filter in sept 2013. any help with this would be appreciated. i dont know what goes into the fuel system or delivery except the major things like filter pump n injectors. other then that im lost.

jay

 

next time it dies note if the dash lights also go out ... it could be the ignition switch

 

have you checked the battery? and if the battery isn't the case, then the starter* would be next probable cause.

 

Make sure the battery terminals are clean and tight, and that the battery is holding a full charge. Next as Holmes mentioned, check the ignition switch.

 

Once the car is running the battery doesn't make any different nor would the connections. The connections would only come into play when you try to start the car.

The sole job of the battery is to start the car. As soon as the car is started the alternator takes over.

 

battery is clean and tight. im not sure about the dash lights bc i haven't really driven it at night. i have a truck so i just use this to get to the train station down the road. i have noticed every time it dies, it clicks and the check engine light comes on and immediately shuts off when the car comes back on. the whole turning off and on process is literally a second or 2.

 

The battery is a storage device, it is the primary means of electrical power. Alternator is just to maintain charge. You would never want to run the car solely off the alternator as this will over heat the alternator. Motors/Alternators are not designed to be used at their full power ratings. Any car with extra ancillaries uses larger or multiple batteries, rarely you will see a vehicle with multiple alternators/generators.
Hondas have the ELD(electrical load detector) which will have the ECU change the alternators charging output, depending on electrical loads. IIRC the ELD, will not allow the alternator to burn up from charging excessively when the battery begins to fail.

 

I am going to respectfully disagree.

http://www.ehow.com/about_6537171_pu...r-battery.html

This is a good informational page for the purposes of a battery.

Honda charging systems only have two modes. High output, which is the standard output of most other automakers charging systems and low output, which is only used to save gas when there is no large current draw. If it was charging in low output when there is a larger draw the battery would not be charged enough to start the car after shutdown.

If the eld fails it will just charge in high output which won't damage any components. The voltage regulator is in charge of keeping the alternator from burning up, imo.

also, low output is 12.6v and high output is 14.6v