Okay I have an ej8 (99 civic) and i've rebuilt an entire motor and installed it and its still not running. My mini me swap consist of the following:
-Stock obd2 harness
-d16y8 head & y8 distributor
-d16z6 bottom end
-arp head bolts (9 z6 arp bolts and 1 y8 bolt nearest to the vtec solenoid)
-d16y8 timing belt
-d16y8 head gasket
-d16z6 cam gear on the y8 head so that the timing isn't 4 degrees off.

Okay as for the ecu, the knock sensor and the ckf sensor (crank sensor) aren't on a d16z6 and the stock obd2 ecu will check for those sensors and since there isnt a spot on the bottom end for either sensor I decided to get a obd2b - obd1 jumper harness and throw a p28 (obd1) on it since the p28 doesn't check for either of those sensors.

Knowing that my crank and cam are both at Top Dead Center making it 100% in time, im getting spark and getting fuel but still it wont run. Won't even hit a lick at all and i've tried starting it with both ecu's.
Its like its not in time and with the way the wiring is set up its basically like having a obd2 head/obd1 bottom end in a obd1 car since the ej8 is now powered off a p28. I need help thanks in advance.

 

both sensors are bypassable if you want to run your stock ecu. im fairly certain you need to use the y8 gear, everyone on dseries.org seems to agree as well.

 

I was thinking the same thing. The deck heights are the same on the D16 engines, only the use of the opposite gear is used when using a D15 block (ie Z6 head, B7 block, Y8 gear).

 

I agree with bot, use of the Y8 gear should get you closer if not the overall issue. Check out the dseries.org site though and get some info from there.

 

okay thanks. ill try that tonight. even the 4 degree difference I would still think it would start up.

 

its more than 4 degrees, its multiple teeth. your timing is almost definitely the reason youre not starting.

 

I have both a z6 and a y8 can gear. same exact amount of teeth on each but where the keyway is located is like 1/8 of a inch away from one another. just enough to make it run like crap.

 

I got to looking into it. A sharpie confirmed my issue...
I put a mark on the cam gear and a mark on the timing belt in the exact same
spot and after letting the car turn oner a few times the belt and cam gear are no longer in sync.... the machine shop that did my engine has the crank entirely too tight and when the timing belt is tight it's basically pulling itself out of time.

Not sure how exactly its doing that since the crank is being turned by the starter and flywheel and even if the crank is too tight it shouldnt be dragging the camgear causing belt slippage.

 

is the belt properly tensioned?

 

yeah I got the issue resolved. I had to get a 2nd set of hands to help me out. 1 person to pry the tensioner up while I tighten it. now with either can gear at tdc still sounds out if time.

 

sounds or is? hard to help on vagueness.

 

thats not the proper way to tension it, so its most likely out of time again

 

Tension Adjustment

CAUTION: Always adjust timing belt tension with the engine cold.

NOTE:
*Inspect the timing belt before belt tension adjusting.
*Tensioner is spring-loaded to apply proper tension to the belt automatically after making the following adjustment:

1.Set the No.1 piston at TDC.
2.Loosen, but do not remove the adjust bolt.
3.Rotate crankshaft counterclockwise 3-teeth on camshaft pulley to create tension on timing belt.
4.Tighten adjust bolt.
5.If pulley bolt broke loose while turning crank, retorque it to: 165 Nm (16.5 kg-m, 119 lb-ft)

NOTE: Put transmission in gear and set parking brake before retorquing pulley bolt.

 

So what ever happen