Apparently, the previous owner drilled a hole in the trunk to mount an amp ground and drilled through the WHITE PLASTIC part that is considered the 'fuel vapor recovery valve' or something like that for the filler recovery. It causes a CEL for a P1432 or something like that.

Anyway, I thought about using silicon, but perhaps there is a better sealant out there I can squirt in that hole?

*edit*
2000 Civic EX Coup

 

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Car information please.

 

Oh sry:

2000 Civic EX Coup.

 

Which of these two ORVR valves?

 

Hard to say by the diagram. It is large, white plastic, and I think it is round-ish. Located at center of trunk, right near the back seat.

*edit*
Oh wait, the diagram I was looking at before points to being the shut-off valve.

 

This one?

 

I think so. Wow you have some good resolution images of the manual man.

 

Why not scout junk yards for 99-00 Civics and pull a shut valve out of one?

 

Hoping to get a quick fix so it can pass emissions and I can run it through the engine break-in process. I have a 7/16" hole there now I can poke a tube through. Plus it has a full tank of Premium fuel for break-in.

I really need it back on the road fast and can pull the tank out later. Right now it is not registered due to emissions and I want it street-legal just to get through break-in. Time is an issue now for other reasons too.

 

How do you know that the drill bit did not damage the valve function as opposed to just made a hole in the valve body? In other words, even if you succeed in sealing the hole, how do you know the valve will actually work and not throw a code?

 

The code is for basically the fuel tank cannot seal pressure.

 

Post the code. But what you say doesn't seem to rule out a broken/damaged valve.

 

True, let me pull that code up on my laptop.

 

Code: P1456 Power Train Manufacturer Defined

 

A loss of vacuum in the EVAP system or a bad shut valve can throw P1456. What I'm saying is that, even if you succeed in sealing the hole in the shut valve body, P1456 may still be thrown because the drill hole could have damaged the shut valve.

 

Yea, I am aware that damage might have occurred. Here is a perfect example of why we should never trust car audio shops to install an amplifier.

So I guess I will first try the sealant method. If I can keep the code away for 30 miles, I can pass emissions testing and then run it through engine break-in to use up that near-full tank of gas.

After that, I will drop the tank and do it right. I hate messing with a full tank of gas. Just too dangerous. I'd rather drive it out first.

 

Good luck.

 

Thanks for your help.

 

I wouldnt do any kind of silicoln theres alot of vacuum in that thing I believe it may just suck it into the hole. at that point if it did still work then it wont after that. probably better off going with something that gets hard like an epoxy. parts stores sell different strengths. the longer it takes to harden the stronger it is. even a quick 1 should do the job. but no matter what you use make sure it doesnt flow inside.

 

I sealed it up with a fuel-grade sealant and drove it about 5-6 miles. No stored or pending codes, and all emissions systems appear to have completed their cycles. Today I will go to take the GA emissions test and hopefully it has enough miles on it for a pass.