TripleLude

Apparently, the previous owner drilled a hole in the trunk to mount an amp ground and drilled through the WHITE PLASTIC part that is considered the 'fuel vapor recovery valve' or something like that for the filler recovery. It causes a CEL for a P1432 or something like that.

Anyway, I thought about using silicon, but perhaps there is a better sealant out there I can squirt in that hole?

*edit*
2000 Civic EX Coup

TomCat39

http://www.henkelna.com/product-sear...=8797875666945


Loctite Gasket Sealant 2




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Technical Information







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Gasketing > Gasket Sealant Dressings



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IDH#

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Material Safety Data Sheets
USA / English USA / Spanish Canada / English Canada / French



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1.5 oz tube

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234889 (us/en)



234891

30514

Loctite® Gasket Sealant 2


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235270

80964

Loctite® Gasket Sealant 2


5.0 gal pail

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Former User

Car information please.

TripleLude

Oh sry:

2000 Civic EX Coup.

Former User

Which of these two ORVR valves?

TripleLude

Hard to say by the diagram. It is large, white plastic, and I think it is round-ish. Located at center of trunk, right near the back seat.

*edit*
Oh wait, the diagram I was looking at before points to being the shut-off valve.

Former User

This one?

TripleLude

I think so. Wow you have some good resolution images of the manual man.

Former User

Why not scout junk yards for 99-00 Civics and pull a shut valve out of one?

TripleLude

Hoping to get a quick fix so it can pass emissions and I can run it through the engine break-in process. I have a 7/16" hole there now I can poke a tube through. Plus it has a full tank of Premium fuel for break-in.

I really need it back on the road fast and can pull the tank out later. Right now it is not registered due to emissions and I want it street-legal just to get through break-in. Time is an issue now for other reasons too.

Former User

How do you know that the drill bit did not damage the valve function as opposed to just made a hole in the valve body? In other words, even if you succeed in sealing the hole, how do you know the valve will actually work and not throw a code?

TripleLude

The code is for basically the fuel tank cannot seal pressure.

Former User

Post the code. But what you say doesn't seem to rule out a broken/damaged valve.

TripleLude

True, let me pull that code up on my laptop.

TripleLude

Code: P1456 Power Train Manufacturer Defined

Former User

A loss of vacuum in the EVAP system or a bad shut valve can throw P1456. What I'm saying is that, even if you succeed in sealing the hole in the shut valve body, P1456 may still be thrown because the drill hole could have damaged the shut valve.

TripleLude

Yea, I am aware that damage might have occurred. Here is a perfect example of why we should never trust car audio shops to install an amplifier.

So I guess I will first try the sealant method. If I can keep the code away for 30 miles, I can pass emissions testing and then run it through engine break-in to use up that near-full tank of gas.

After that, I will drop the tank and do it right. I hate messing with a full tank of gas. Just too dangerous. I'd rather drive it out first.

Former User

Good luck.

TripleLude

Thanks for your help.

sowellman88011

I wouldnt do any kind of silicoln theres alot of vacuum in that thing I believe it may just suck it into the hole. at that point if it did still work then it wont after that. probably better off going with something that gets hard like an epoxy. parts stores sell different strengths. the longer it takes to harden the stronger it is. even a quick 1 should do the job. but no matter what you use make sure it doesnt flow inside.

TripleLude

I sealed it up with a fuel-grade sealant and drove it about 5-6 miles. No stored or pending codes, and all emissions systems appear to have completed their cycles. Today I will go to take the GA emissions test and hopefully it has enough miles on it for a pass.