Still haven't pulled the trigger on a lightweight battery friends are suggesting the anti-gravity ones weighing in at just 2-6lbs !! however before I do this I'd like to know if I'm missing any items that draw juice from the battery when the car is off. here's my list of what I have left

ECU/Hondata s300
Power locks
interior dome/map lights (may be coming out)
hazards
tail lights
autopage alarm(it's coming out)

now arguably some of these thing only work when you press them etc, but they're at the "ready". am I missing any items ? if it's off the list I don't have it on the car anymore

 

There is always a "parasitic" draw from the batt. unless it is disconnected, memory for the ECU/ECM, clock, radio all draw power from the batt. when ign. is off.

Parasitic draw becomes a problem when the draw is more then the batt. can "handle" and how long that is depends on the batt. you have and what the draw is.

Of the things you list only the ECU and the alarm will draw power when ign. is off. 94

 

By chance do you know the ah(amp hour)-draw the ECU takes ? or a way I could figure it out, the one I'm looking at has a AH rating of 12. I had a thread regarding how much the headlights/stereo being on while car was off ah draw would take on the batt, the car cranks over in the first 3 seconds so I'm not too concerned about CCA. I do plan to try and disconnect the battery when I can but it's something I'd have to leave my self a note for lol, along with the fact if I ever need to go somewhere quick I'd rather not have to pop the hood and fiddle with it(will be relocated soon). http://antigravitybatteries.com/ytz10-12/ also when they're talking about 8cel 12 cel etc what does that mean the 8 cell has the same specs as the 12 and weighs the same.

 

Would a toggle switch work for the battery? So instead of popping the hood every time to connect or disconnect the battery you can flip the switch.

 

That would have to be a big toggle switch, [100A].

Better to install a batt. minder.

The amount of "acceptable" draw will depend on batt. and how long the car sits for without starting.

Simple test is to do a parasitic draw test using a 12V test light, [not LED type] if it lights up at all, [very dim] you have about a week on a good stock batt. before it has an effect, [slow or no crank] the brighter the light the less time you have, full brightness will kill a batt. overnight.

With a meter look for .00X amps.

Again, if left long enough, no matter what the batt. and ho low the draw is, the batt will go down. 94

 

So figure out what the batt reads at full charge with no draw then use a mulitmeter to determine the draw once I get the alarm out ? thus determining the A/HD of the ECU ?. and then factor that into the A/H rating and doo the math.

 

Does anyone know what is meant by 8/12/etc cell battery's ? they all have the same weight/CCA I got the 8 cell cause it was cheaper http://antigravitybatteries.com/oem-case-clymb/

 

bump for curiosity

 

Go to YouTube and search for Parasitic Battery Draw.
Buy the needed parts at Radio Shack and test your car.

It's a lot easier than you would think.