obd2 to obd1 prelude swap question
hey guys I have a few questions so please bare with me. I have a 1993 prelude si and I just ordered a euro r long block from hmotorsonline. my question is what all needs to be done to make this particular swap run correctly in my prelude? as far as the ecu goes im buying a p28 with the s300 but not exactly sure what else needs to be done to make an obd2 motor work in my obd1 prelude? any advice is greatly appreciated thanks guys
You will need a obd1 dizzy, obd1 alternator, obd1 injectors or jumpers for obd2 injectors, and a 2-pin obd1 USDM IACV. You will need a resistor box with obd1 injectors though. You will also need to block the air holes in the intake manifold if you are not keeping the 3-pin IACV system, which you cant anyhow going obd1. Then you will also be able to use usdm intake gaskets.
Thats about it, with a good tune you should be golden.
Thats about it, with a good tune you should be golden.
You will need a obd1 dizzy, obd1 alternator, obd1 injectors or jumpers for obd2 injectors, and a 2-pin obd1 USDM IACV. You will need a resistor box with obd1 injectors though. You will also need to block the air holes in the intake manifold if you are not keeping the 3-pin IACV system, which you cant anyhow going obd1. Then you will also be able to use usdm intake gaskets.
Thats about it, with a good tune you should be golden.
Thats about it, with a good tune you should be golden.
ok so I got the motor in and running but runs like ****. I used my h23 harness, h23 distributor with external coil, h23 alternator... then I used the euro r manifold and euro r fuel rail and injectors but car is running like **** any ideas on what I did wrong?
I believe you gotta use obd1 injectors and fuel rail. Swap over the fuel rail and injectors. get obd1 h22 injectors that are like 340cc. and swap your h23 fuel rail over.
Idk what else. I'm going to be in your position soon, except with an h23a.
Idk what else. I'm going to be in your position soon, except with an h23a.
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I thought it would only harm the ecu if I was using peak and hold injectors WITHOUT a resistor box? in my case im using saturated injectors with a resistor box but I only kept it running for 5 mins... im deleting the resistor box tomorrow
You will need a obd1 dizzy, obd1 alternator, obd1 injectors or jumpers for obd2 injectors, and a 2-pin obd1 USDM IACV. You will need a resistor box with obd1 injectors though. You will also need to block the air holes in the intake manifold if you are not keeping the 3-pin IACV system, which you cant anyhow going obd1. Then you will also be able to use usdm intake gaskets.
Thats about it, with a good tune you should be golden.
Thats about it, with a good tune you should be golden.
Did you block the injector holes on the manifold?
I thought that implied not needing a resistor box for obd2 injectors. Otherwise having a resistor box on any H series would just be a given or irrelevant , and not in need of mentioning. Theres a acronym KISS- keep it simple stupid. If you dont need something, and you are running it you are intentionally making things more complicated then they need to be. In this case its bad for the ECU.
Did you block the injector holes on the manifold?
Did you block the injector holes on the manifold?
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