Was doing some work on the race car today. Went to remove the front passenger side LCA and ran into the stupid common seized bolt issue. I've dealt with this before a number of times on different Civics in the past, but only with the rear LCA's which are generally easy to deal with. This time the front inner LCA bolt is putting up a fight.

The bolt is seized to the metal collar inside the OEM bushing. Using an impact gun, the metal sleeve has already torn away from the bushing material. The bolt will start to unthread from the nut on the other side but since it is seized to the metal collar, it is actually separating the subframe where the arm bolts into.

I've already tried cutting through the sleeve/bolt with a sawzaw but the sleeve is so thick and hard, the blade hasn't even nicked into the metal! The blade is just wearing down super fast and not doing jack... I've also started to try drilling into the bolt but again, the bolt is so damn hard it's not getting very far...

I'm not so sure if heating the LCA/bolt would really do any good.

So, I have to ask if anyone here has dealt with this particular issue and how they got around it. Car is not moveable in the condition it is in so I'll have to get this taken care of by myself and find something that will work. I feel the only way to get it out is to cut through the bolt on both sides of the control arm but what the hell will be sharp and strong enough to do so?

Any help or ideas would be great! Thanks!

Here are pics of what I'm dealing with.
You can sorta see where I tried to make the cut. Didn't even nick the metal, just clean it!! wtf?! lol


trying to drill into the bolt. Started easy but then it stopped like hitting a brick wall...

 

Buy better blades? Not trying to knock you, just a suggestion. I've always used Lenox bi-metal blades and never had an issue cutting though those sleeves. They are expensive, but work very well and last. I just had to cut the rear toe links out of my integra. Same blade(which was fairly well used to begin with) made four cuts and was still working fine afterwards. Also, that's a grade ten bolt(I think) so without the proper drill bits and technique you will not be able to drill it out. You may have already work hardened it if you tried to go after it foot to the floor so to speak.

 

I was using a DeWalt sawzaw with new Milwaukee Torch blades. Doing a little more research it looks like those Lenox blades are popular for something like this. I just didn't think if the Milwaukee blade didn't even scratch the metal that the Lenox ones wouldn't do much better. Guess I'll give those a shot.

 

I think you'll be pleasantly surprised what a good metal cutting blade will do

 

I always use carbide blades, but I've never had to get through that particular bolt. Can you tell if the blade is staying still on the collar? You probably already thought about this but it won't cut if either it or the collar is vibrating side-to-side. Those abrasive bits are extra particular about that. You could try a toothed blade but they will loose teeth esp. if they get too hot.

It's crazy that it seized so bad.

 

The blade is making contact but not able to dig into the metal so the blade itself ends up moving side to side basically just polishing the collar lol. The collar itself definitely isn't moving since it's seized to the bolt. I'm going out to get a set of those Lexon bi-metal blades and see if that works. If they don't I may try and heat the metal and see if it'll loosen up the seize between the bolt and collar enough to just unbolt it.

 

Can you spin the bolt back down so there is less clearance between the bushing and the frame bracket? That might help with the wiggling. You could also start the cut on an angle into the bushing and then correct it once the cut starts.

 

Ok wtf.. Bought new Lenox armor thick metal bi metal 14tpi blades and they didn't do jack. Just like the others, worn down super fast. I'm able to keep the blade straight and from vibrating but even at low speed, high speed, low pressure or high pressure the blades will not even nick the metal.



Do you think I'd have any chance of freeing the bolt up if I heat it? This is really starting to frustrate the hell out of me.

 

-that's your problem. 18-24tpi.

 

According to Lenox's chart, the 14tpi should have worked for thick metal.



I suppose I could try out an 18tpi but I'm very skeptical at this point.

 

Bump.

1998gsrintegra, what blade/tpi did you use to make that cut? Just wanted to know before I go out and buy a new blade to try out.

Thanks!

 

I'll have to get back to you on that to be sure. I'm fairly certain 18tpi.

http://www.lowes.com/pd_5371-28303-E...nox&facetInfo=

I'm really surprised what you bought didn't work. What are your bushing sleeves made out of? Solid diamond

Honestly if the blades that I consider to be fantastic are losing teeth and not doing a damn thing then you might as well move to cutting the sleeves out with an oxy acetylene torch.

Just out of curiousity, what part of MD are you in?

 

I bought a pack of 18tpi lazer blades today. Il going to try them tomorrow with my slower sawzall to try and get the cut started.

I'm in Montgomery County off 270. Didn't see you were from MD too.

 

Oh ok, out near Gaithersburg. That's not too far from me. I'm just off of 50 in Bowie.

 

Welp, tried the 18tpi lazer blade and....didn't do jack... The blade definitely lasted longer but still just not cutting in.

Going to try heating the bolt up and holding onto the collar with vise grips and try backing the bolt out. I HOPE this works, otherwise I'm completely lost on what to do..

 

When you try to back the bolt out and it starts spreading the lca why dont you try cutting off the head of the bolt or try drilling it out or maybe if you can sneak a blade inbetween the collar and lca just cut thye bolt out then just drill out the head?