Trying to get into legal drag racing
Hey guys, my name is Rob and ive been into hondas since 2001. I recently built a sleeved b18c1 put into a 92 civic si. I recently brought it to the track for an import faceoff in the october last year and ran a 12.9 at 119mph. I used slicks and launched very soft. I just wanted to see what the car would do on the setup i built.
Setup: Built B18c1
Comp ct3 5252 billet wheel turbo
Stock GSR tranny with ACT 6 puck clutch
Skunk 2 stage 2 tuner cams and Skunk 2 valve train
Hondata s300
Edelbrock Intake manifold
24.5/50/15 slicks
I launched soft to keep from breaking the axles and plan to upgrade the tranny once school is done this May.
My question is.. where can I look to find out information to get into drag racing. Maybe something to show me exactly what is required and legal to start out into this type of racing. I would like to go out for the fwd turbo class if I could. Any advice would be deeply appreciated. Thanks!
Setup: Built B18c1
Comp ct3 5252 billet wheel turbo
Stock GSR tranny with ACT 6 puck clutch
Skunk 2 stage 2 tuner cams and Skunk 2 valve train
Hondata s300
Edelbrock Intake manifold
24.5/50/15 slicks
I launched soft to keep from breaking the axles and plan to upgrade the tranny once school is done this May.
My question is.. where can I look to find out information to get into drag racing. Maybe something to show me exactly what is required and legal to start out into this type of racing. I would like to go out for the fwd turbo class if I could. Any advice would be deeply appreciated. Thanks!
How big is your wallet? You can go as fast as you want till you run out of money . . .
You're pretty much already doing what 90% of the people out there do with drag racing, making actual money doing it is a different deal altogether.
You're pretty much already doing what 90% of the people out there do with drag racing, making actual money doing it is a different deal altogether.
Your turbo will limit your power output slightly. What is your fuel system setup like? Injectors? Pumps? How about suspension?
Like the above posted stated; you can go to events with what you have more or less and have a great time or you can spend a **** ton of money chasing lower times.... It just depends on your wallet size and your means.
Going from a 12 second car to a 10 sec car (both fully dialed) is probably a $10,000 commitment at least.
If you want to start racing at events; IFO events are the way to go IMO. rules are posted, easy to understand and tech is very relaxed when it comes to some of the details. Just make sure you buy a catch pan or containment device to catch fluids if you break and you'll be the tracks best friend.
Good luck
Like the above posted stated; you can go to events with what you have more or less and have a great time or you can spend a **** ton of money chasing lower times.... It just depends on your wallet size and your means.
Going from a 12 second car to a 10 sec car (both fully dialed) is probably a $10,000 commitment at least.
If you want to start racing at events; IFO events are the way to go IMO. rules are posted, easy to understand and tech is very relaxed when it comes to some of the details. Just make sure you buy a catch pan or containment device to catch fluids if you break and you'll be the tracks best friend.
Good luck
Yeah if you want to get deep into the 10's or in the high 9's there is a lot more to it.. You see a lot of guys talk all day about how they do this and do that with stock everything in the 10's what they don't tell you is they bust their crap all the time.
If you build your car the right way you can run 10's all day and leave with it in one piece as well..
You start getting into low 9's and 8's, no matter the money you spend your gonna break stuff.
If you build your car the right way you can run 10's all day and leave with it in one piece as well..
You start getting into low 9's and 8's, no matter the money you spend your gonna break stuff.
I was in your shoes about three years ago. Stick with your current setup and stick with the FIS (forced induction sport) class at import face off. The class has a 62mm turbo limit and you won't have to upgrade much right now. Just learn how to drive the car and enjoy it for now. The $10,000 mark to go from 12's to 10's is pretty accurate.
You'll see guys on here going 10's with 450-500hp, others with 700hp still running 10's. Just go ahead and assume you won't be the guy with the lucky setup, that runs miracle times on low power.
Keep racing and have fun!
You'll see guys on here going 10's with 450-500hp, others with 700hp still running 10's. Just go ahead and assume you won't be the guy with the lucky setup, that runs miracle times on low power.
Keep racing and have fun!
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I'm looking into buying full race traction bars for my setup. My suspension has new urethane control arm bushings and solid motor mounts. I read that you have to adjust the traction bar in a way to get slack out of it?
Install the traction bar then get the car properly aligned by someone that understands wheel alignments.
Yeah if you want to get deep into the 10's or in the high 9's there is a lot more to it.. You see a lot of guys talk all day about how they do this and do that with stock everything in the 10's what they don't tell you is they bust their crap all the time.
If you build your car the right way you can run 10's all day and leave with it in one piece as well..
You start getting into low 9's and 8's, no matter the money you spend your gonna break stuff.
If you build your car the right way you can run 10's all day and leave with it in one piece as well..
You start getting into low 9's and 8's, no matter the money you spend your gonna break stuff.
It's all about weight, really.
Lighter cars take less to get them moving. Simple. Imagine putting huge 100 lb jeep tires on your civic and dumping the clutch at 8000. Boom.
Light tires/wheels, light car, light everything. Less breakage, less power needed to get the number you want. When you get into racing a particular class, there will be weight minimums, so that kinda goes out the window.
If you're trying to be competitive in a class, find one that you like and read the rules extensively. Build the fastest car you can to those standards and practice practice practice.
If you're trying to just keep it legal and have some fun, hit up all the test and tune weekends! No reason to build your car to a specific set of rules and you meet/race against all kinds of people.
Lighter cars take less to get them moving. Simple. Imagine putting huge 100 lb jeep tires on your civic and dumping the clutch at 8000. Boom.
Light tires/wheels, light car, light everything. Less breakage, less power needed to get the number you want. When you get into racing a particular class, there will be weight minimums, so that kinda goes out the window.
If you're trying to be competitive in a class, find one that you like and read the rules extensively. Build the fastest car you can to those standards and practice practice practice.
If you're trying to just keep it legal and have some fun, hit up all the test and tune weekends! No reason to build your car to a specific set of rules and you meet/race against all kinds of people.
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vteczone
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