If I'm posting this in the wrong section please move the thread to the right place.


I just did a (mini me) y7 block with a y7 block I did all the required wiring for the vtec oil pressure sensor the vtec solenoid, knock sensor, and I changed the 3 wire iac to the y8's 2 Wire.

Problem is with the p2p ecm the car sputters through out the rpm band and I really don't feel the extra 20hp I'm supposed to have added with the head swap.....20 hp lol I know.

I was able to find the plugs for the knock sensor, the vtec oil pressure sensor, but not the iac. So I used 2 espade conectors from an accord I had laying around and connected them directly to the iac.

Like I said the car sputters like crazy so I scanned it and it gave me the knock sensor code, which I knew I was going to have since the knock sensor I had was kinda coming appart, and the second one is iac malfunction.

I disconnected the battery,changed to the p2e computer to see if my problem was the knock sensor. Same results though.

So i changed the possition of the connectors in the iac since there is a 50% i got them connected wrong, And went for a test drive....problem got a little better but persists.

My question is.The spade connectors I used to wire the things to the computer were from that 98 accord plug I had, were similar but not exactly the same, I had to modify them a little to make them go in to my plug, would that cause a Bad connection to the ecm?

Please any wisdom is greatly appreciated. This is my DD and it really sucks commuting to work with my car running like crap

 

?

Pull the CEL codes and post them.

 

This is one of the two. The other one is the knock sensor. I don't want to plug back the p2p its late and cold out here lol. This is the same code I got with the p2p and p2e though

 

what year is the car you did this to
if obd2-A like did you move the A14 pin to A12
and unplug the A13 pin if your obd2-A

http://www.phearable.net/tech/wiring/wiring.96-98_2.jpg
http://www.phearable.net/tech/wiring...schematics.gif

mabey some of it could help I did this in reverse a little while back
as for your spade connector not fitting I would just go to the junk yard and take some ecu harness plugs for a few $

 

I'm guessing neither ECU is made for the Y8?

Looking in the manual the 1509 code is for the Y7 motor IACV circuit failure and 96-98 Automatic transmission cars and then the 99-00 Automatic transmission cars.

If it's a Y8 ECU it should be throwing code 1508.





The flowchart for the Y8 code can be found here:
https://honda-tech.com/forums/honda-civic-del-sol-1992-2000-1/98-civic-coupe-d16y8-fast-idle-fluctuating-3190781/
Post 12 and 13 I believe.

If you compare the pinouts between these flowcharts and the Y8, you might just find what the above poster was referencing. Or where you pinned it wrong for the IACV.

 

How did you pin it for the two wire? What's your year, make, model? What year is the head and intake manifold?

 

I have a 96 ej6 hatchback. I had originally a y7 ob2a, i put the y8 head with a p2p-pa31 off a MT 98 coupe computer. the manifold is 99 with the air injection but i block that off.

this is the wiring I did.

- Ran a Wire from ECU Pin A8 to the VTEC Solenoid
- Ran a Wire from ECU Pin C15 to one of the Pins in the VTEC Oil Pressure Switch (Green Plug in VTEC Solenoid)
- Ran a Wire from the other Pin in the VTEC Oil Pressure Switch to Ground
- Ran a Wire from ECU Pin D6 to the Knock Sensor

Last night I swaped the the wires on the IAC but the problem persist.

Theoretically i think I did it correctly, I need to check after my work and see what i messed up

 

so you didn't do the iacv rewire?

 

reason I put the p2e back on the car, it was to check if my main problem would go away since I have a faulty knock sensor. the p2e gave it a little more power, which I guess was the knock sensor's fault. but the rpm bouncing up and down is still there and gradually getting worse. I would like to get it so at least it revs evenly. I'm getting a full MT 96-98 civic ex wiring harness eventually. and putint the p2p back on with a new knock sensor

I also discovered a big vacuum leak ill be addressing today.

 

i did. ill post pics when I get home

 

i used 2 spade connectors from a ecm plug (bigger ones) and i put electric tape on them so the wouldnt surge and just did away with the orange wire. thats why I swapped the position of the wires twice now with the same result. I'm thinking it could have burn a relay or a fuse

 

I did do the swap of wires on the A connector, and I think for now im going to do just that get me a complete plug from a junkyard and wire it all. there is a couple of Y8 96-00 civics in one close to me but they are AT so ill have to do the A14-12 and toss the A13 away but they will atleast be obd2a plugs

 

question can i have the p2p run with a 3 wire iacv? using the y7 throttle body with the y8 tb rotor?

 

***update*** fixed the problem i had a spade connector on the a12 slot upside down lol hopefully the problem won't reapear

 

No not unless you have an auto Y8

 

Ok thanks. Well car runs better. I still have the knock sensor malfunction. I'm ordering one from auto part store. Was tempted to get one from ebay, but I should know better. And I'm putting the right harness on it eventually.

 

I dont know about you but id try the 25$ ebay knock sensor over the 150$ one the parts store tried to sell me

also you made the harness the right harness I wouldn't bother changing it out and possibly open a new can of worms