obd2 gsr in 93 civic si
So last weekend me and my good buddy went to go see a 97 gsr asking price was 1500 talked him down 2 1000.deal was I get the the swap he gets the shell and it happend.now im im HERE lol.......first off I did research many I mean MANY were out dated so just to double check and get all the confusion cleared up in my head I decided to make my post.so doing my reasearch I came up with....switching everything over 2 obd1 like....intake manifold,dizzy, alternator obd1 gsr wire harness should.I be get with that?
Ive also read that obd2 gsr swaps are pretty much plug in play with my car is it true ???
As of now im running and obd1 jdm d15b with a chipped p28 not my fist swap but its my first B Series VTEC swap I've had a 94dx hatch b20 swapped myself
The car me an my buddy practically stole (ps. Clean tittle!!)

The swap....

And the car geting the swap

Any info will be greatly appreciate it and thanks in advance
Ive also read that obd2 gsr swaps are pretty much plug in play with my car is it true ???
As of now im running and obd1 jdm d15b with a chipped p28 not my fist swap but its my first B Series VTEC swap I've had a 94dx hatch b20 swapped myself
The car me an my buddy practically stole (ps. Clean tittle!!)

The swap....

And the car geting the swap

Any info will be greatly appreciate it and thanks in advance
Check here for the wiring answers and let me know if you have any questions
https://honda-tech.com/forums/honda-civic-del-sol-1992-2000-1/92-00-honda-engine-swap-wiring-guide-vtec-non-vtec-2987229/
https://honda-tech.com/forums/honda-civic-del-sol-1992-2000-1/92-00-honda-engine-swap-wiring-guide-vtec-non-vtec-2987229/
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From: TRILLINOIS....WAY downtown, jerky.
Plug everything in via your stock harness. Rewire the plug for the alternator. You can either buy a sandwich harness for the distributor if you're not comfortable with wiring....or do the distrbutor rewire yourself. Remember to solder the connections. If you're planning on using butt connectors and tape, just buy the conversion harness.
You'll need to make a knock sensor sub harness depending on what ECU you use. Don't break the knock sensor when you unplug it or plug it in. It's very easy to break.
You also need to wire the IAB if you want the IAB to work.
You'll need to make a knock sensor sub harness depending on what ECU you use. Don't break the knock sensor when you unplug it or plug it in. It's very easy to break.
You also need to wire the IAB if you want the IAB to work.
Plug everything in via your stock harness. Rewire the plug for the alternator. You can either buy a sandwich harness for the distributor if you're not comfortable with wiring....or do the distrbutor rewire yourself. Remember to solder the connections. If you're planning on using butt connectors and tape, just buy the conversion harness.
You'll need to make a knock sensor sub harness depending on what ECU you use. Don't break the knock sensor when you unplug it or plug it in. It's very easy to break.
You also need to wire the IAB if you want the IAB to work.
You'll need to make a knock sensor sub harness depending on what ECU you use. Don't break the knock sensor when you unplug it or plug it in. It's very easy to break.
You also need to wire the IAB if you want the IAB to work.
If you use an OBD2 integra engine harness the whole thing is plug and play, simply use an OBD1 ECU and wire knock back to the ECU if you're use an ECU that looks for a knock sensor. You will need to wire vtec from the solenoid to shock tower plugs if using an LS harness. If using a GS-R or ITR harness it's obviously already there.
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Most of the OBD1 vtec ECUs look for knock. P30, P61, P72, PR3, Some PW0s (the Euro ones don't), P13.
P28, P07 and Euro PW0 ECUs are the only ones I can think of right off that don't look for a knock sensor.
P28, P07 and Euro PW0 ECUs are the only ones I can think of right off that don't look for a knock sensor.
Oh dah VTEC ones y0! I never knew the PR3 looked for it. I never had a PR3 with a knock sensor
If you use an OBD2 integra engine harness the whole thing is plug and play, simply use an OBD1 ECU and wire knock back to the ECU if you're use an ECU that looks for a knock sensor. You will need to wire vtec from the solenoid to shock tower plugs if using an LS harness. If using a GS-R or ITR harness it's obviously already there.
No, it wont look for one, it doesn't have the circuitry to operate the secondary butterflies in the intake so there's no point in wiring those either.
The brackets for the power steering pump. You need the A/C bracket from a '97 - '01 CR-V, everything else you reuse from the civic.
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