Want to do something different..
Thread Starter
Honda-Tech Member
Joined: Jan 2014
Posts: 6
Likes: 0
Want to do something different..
I have a 96 civic hatch non vetch and I want to do something different to it. Im not sure what I wanna do but right now its all stock except for the rims and tint.. I HATE the rims with the 18s it doesn't handle the best....
does anybody have any ideas what I should end up doing I was thinking about doing a k20 swap but the more and more I read on it, it sounds like it is a bitch of a swap..
any input would be nice
thanks
for some reason it wont let me upload a picture
does anybody have any ideas what I should end up doing I was thinking about doing a k20 swap but the more and more I read on it, it sounds like it is a bitch of a swap..
any input would be nice
thanks
for some reason it wont let me upload a picture
Honda-Tech Member
Joined: Sep 2012
Posts: 9,721
Likes: 13
From: Toronto,Ontario
Re: Want to do something different..
it's expensive, 6-8k done right. everything's been done already lol hate to say it but it's true. unless you want to go F2K but that's expensive as ****(F20Cw/ktrans)
Honda-Tech Member
Joined: Aug 2012
Posts: 196
Likes: 9
From: Philadelphia
Re: Want to do something different..
I hate to say it but there's not much "different" out there. Most stuffs been done multiple times. So just do what meets your goals and budget for the car.
Re: Want to do something different..
Yep, there's nothing new or different out there to do.
Figure out what you want your final product to be. Get it on paper. Check it a week later to make sure you're still happy with that final goal. If you aren't, rework your goal, give it another week, and come back to it.
Once you have that done, pick one aspect of it. If you want a fast car with a loud stereo, or a fast car with a leather interior, or a crazy "look at me" car that goes low and slow, pick one part of it. Figure out what it'll take to accomplish that one part, and make a parts list for yourself. Do that one part, make it happen, then start working on part two. If you try doing multiple things at once, you'll just end up broke with a half-finished car.
If "go fast" is part of your goal, first you need to figure out WHERE you want to go fast. Fast in a straight line is a lot different than fast with turns, and cone killing is a LOT different than track days, which is different than touring car racing. Figure out which one you want to do - there's no such thing as a car that does it all well. Then you need to figure out how fast you want to go. 200WHP is pretty damn quick. 300WHP starts to get scary to an amateur driver (if you don't have a season of track driving under your belt, you're an amateur). 400 and above brings you into whole new ball games. Combine those things to figure out what kind of motor you should swap in, and how it should be aspirated. NA, turbo, centrifugal superchargers, roots superchargers, screw superchargers, and nitrous all have MUCH different power deliveries.
The final point to remember is the biggest - Money, speed, reliability. A cheap, fast car won't be reliable, a cheap, reliable car won't be fast, and a fast, reliable car won't be cheap. Make up your mind now, because you changing your mind halfway through will **** your wallet straight up the ***.
If you want to build a good car that will take care of you, make you happy, and earn the respect we all want from our investments, do it the right way. Take your time. Do research. Make decisions, and stick to them. There's a huge wealth of information available here on Honda Tech - use it.
Figure out what you want your final product to be. Get it on paper. Check it a week later to make sure you're still happy with that final goal. If you aren't, rework your goal, give it another week, and come back to it.
Once you have that done, pick one aspect of it. If you want a fast car with a loud stereo, or a fast car with a leather interior, or a crazy "look at me" car that goes low and slow, pick one part of it. Figure out what it'll take to accomplish that one part, and make a parts list for yourself. Do that one part, make it happen, then start working on part two. If you try doing multiple things at once, you'll just end up broke with a half-finished car.
If "go fast" is part of your goal, first you need to figure out WHERE you want to go fast. Fast in a straight line is a lot different than fast with turns, and cone killing is a LOT different than track days, which is different than touring car racing. Figure out which one you want to do - there's no such thing as a car that does it all well. Then you need to figure out how fast you want to go. 200WHP is pretty damn quick. 300WHP starts to get scary to an amateur driver (if you don't have a season of track driving under your belt, you're an amateur). 400 and above brings you into whole new ball games. Combine those things to figure out what kind of motor you should swap in, and how it should be aspirated. NA, turbo, centrifugal superchargers, roots superchargers, screw superchargers, and nitrous all have MUCH different power deliveries.
The final point to remember is the biggest - Money, speed, reliability. A cheap, fast car won't be reliable, a cheap, reliable car won't be fast, and a fast, reliable car won't be cheap. Make up your mind now, because you changing your mind halfway through will **** your wallet straight up the ***.
If you want to build a good car that will take care of you, make you happy, and earn the respect we all want from our investments, do it the right way. Take your time. Do research. Make decisions, and stick to them. There's a huge wealth of information available here on Honda Tech - use it.
Re: Want to do something different..
FAQs - Frequently Asked (Tech) Questions
6th Generation FAQ
WARNING: BEFORE ADDING MODIFICATIONS, SPEND YOUR MONEY ON NECESSARY REPAIRS.
Please, do the roads, safety of other people, your car, & yourself a favor by fixing any problems with it now.Before you plan on slapping on some accessories or modifications, ensure your vehicle is safe, reliable,& sturdy. An overall tune-up would be the best modification if the vehicle hasn't been maintained properly. This may include all fluids (oil, antifreeze/coolant, transmission oil, brake, &/or power steering, & clutch). A distributor cap, rotor, or spark plug + wire change too, suspension bushings, brake pads/rotors etc;. You get the gist, just make sure your vehicle fits spec reliability before you do anything, or else your car will just be riced junk with accessories.
IF YOU HAVE A D16Y7/D16Y8 ENGINE AND YOU WANT TO DUMP $1000's INTO HEADERS/INTAKE/EXHAUST FOR "POWER" YOU'RE WASTING YOUR TIME. YOU'RE BUYING SOUND MODS, NOT POWER MODS. THESE ARE ECONOMICAL ENGINES FOR GAS MILEAGE, NOT HORSEPOWER. THERES NO HIDDEN POTENTIAL POWER FOR AN ALL MOTOR BUILD, DYNO RESULTS PROVE THAT THEY GIVE NO NOTICEABLE POWER WORTH THE MONEY. . SO READ THE LINK BELOW UNDER "ENGINE".
I. Interior
-Integra Dual Bend Shifter
-Weighted Shift ****
-Wide Angle Rear view mirror
-Dome light LED upgrade
-Integra/Civic EX/SI Map light
-Seat Swap
-Cluster Plug&Play
>>Clusters requiring modification
-Steering wheel swaps
-Headliner/Carpet Dye
II. Exterior
-Front Lips
-Rear Lips
-Mudguards
-Fog Lights
-Tail Lights
III. Engine
IV. Suspension
V. Wheels
Interior
~$20+ (usually under $20) used Integra dual-bend shifter into 96-00 Civic
(Will need to be cut/dremeled to fit)
I highly recommend this, a noticeably different feel /short throw and worth the effort.
Length to cut
Shifter Installation Tutorial
~$??? weighted shift ****
If you want a different feel in shifting but don't want to do the shifter mod mentioned above, purchase a weighted ****. I personally use the PWJDM and it makes a huge difference.
~$25 240mm Convex Broadway rear view mirror (Ebay/Amazon)
If you're not a fan of a Convex, then a flat version is available.
~$5 48-LED panel Dome Light insert
Amazon Listing - All Bulb Sizes for Civic
~$??? used Integra/ Civic EX or SI Map-Light DIY
Integra Map Light - Map + Trunk Light Tutorial -
~$??? - Seat Swap
More Info
96-00 CIVIC:
-Front-
•92-95 Civic w/EK rails
•94-01 Integra w/EK rails
•97-01 CR-V w/EK rails
•92-97 Del Sol w/EK rails
•97-01 Prelude w/EK rails
•97-02 Accord Coupe w/EK rails
•01-03 CL w/EK rails*Requires 12v for heat feature
-Rear-(Hatch)
•92-95 Civic *Hatchback only
•94-01 Integra *Hatchback only
•02-06 RSX
-Rear-(Coupe)
•01-05 Civic Si*EP3 only
-Rear-(Sedan)
•92-95 Civic Sedan
•94-01 Integra Sedan
Cluster Modifications
Any 96-00 based Civic chassis cluster will plug & play no modification, this applies internationally.
Japanese, European, Asian, Australian/New Zealand, Canadian clusters will fit in USDM Civic's too.
97-01 CRV's - JDM Honda SMX - CDM (Canada) Acura 1.6 EL - Isuzu Gemini - Honda Orthia - JDM Honda Integra SJ also
Modification Required Clusters:
94-01 Integra
03-04 Civic
S2000
~$??? Steering wheel swaps
"What OEM Wheel fits w/ tutorial links"
~$?? Headliner/carpet dyeing (can be reupholstered easily too which may be better)
Carpet
"Post Your Interior Thread" (For Inspirational purposes)
Exterior
1996-1998 / 1999-2000 Civic Body Differences & Front & Rear Conversion
96 - 98 Lip Options
If purchasing a replica lip, do yourself a favor & get a polyurethane replica, they're much more flexible than the ABS plastic which may crack & break very easily, although their fitment may be more precise (not as precise as OEM or genuine of course)
99 - 00 Lip options
Info: When it comes to replica 99-00 front lips, the OEM 99-00 front lip is the same as the Civic Type R, & the 99-00 EM1/SI coupe front lip. so... CTR = Si = OEM.
You can tell the difference between an OEM/CTR/SI front lip, & a replica version because the replica has more flare on the sides & extends further than the OEM/CTR/Si. It's obvious if you focus.
Same applies as mentioned above for the 96-98 replica lips purchases & quality.
Rear lips:
Info: There is a difference on rear bumpers between the years & models.
96-98 Coupes/Sedans share the same rear bumper
99-00 Coupes/Sedans share the same rear bumper
96-00 Hatchbacks share the same rear bumper
Mudguard options:
Front mudguards:
FOR COUPE = Any '96-'00 Civic mudguards will fit.
FOR HATCH = Any '96-'00 Civic mudguards will fit.
FOR SEDAN = Any '96-'00 Civic mudguards will fit.
Rear mudguards:
FOR '96-'98 COUPE = '96-'98 Civic coupe/sedan mudguards fit.
FOR '99-'00 COUPE = '99-'00 Civic coupe/sedan mudguards fit.
FOR '96-'00 HATCH = '96-'00 Civic hatch mudguards fit.
FOR '96-'98 SEDAN = '96-'98 Civic coupe/sedan mudguards fit.
FOR '99-'00 SEDAN = '99-'00 Civic coupe/sedan mudguards fit.
Rear RSX mudguards have been cut to fit rear bumpers with rear lips on hatchbacks.
Fog Lights options
96-98 Circle - 96-98 Square
99-00 Circle
DIY 96-98 Civic square fog light wiring tutorial
DIY 99-00 Civic Ebay Fog Light Wiring tutorial
Info: In the US, USDM (OEM) Fog-lights came in clear lenses. The OEM Brand for Honda fog-lights would be "Raybrig" or "Stanley". Another common brand is "Depo" which are replica aftermarket foglights. They tend to leak, & install/fitment won't be 100% as OEM, so be aware you get what you pay for. Esuse is another aftermarket brand, of higher quality than Depo though.
Also, for the 99-00's, the OEM ones came with (as mentioned before) clear Raybrig lights, & a gray cover like this. Often, you may see yellow lights & a black cover, as that's usually the "JDM" ebay/replica aftermarket version. P.S: PWJDM Lights are Depo brand, not OEM. This is because in Japan the 99-00 lights are yellow Stanley's from the factory. As an aesthetic option, you can always get clear foglights & tint them with yellow tint, if you decide to change your mind, you may remove the tint & go back to clear fogs.
Tail-light options:
They're separated into different categories as to what matches the body, the coupes & hatcbacks are interchangeable in all years. however the sedans have two different trunks depending on the year.
96-00 Coupes
96-98 OEM Amber - 99-00 OEM Non-Amber - 96-98 Red tint over amber - 99-00 Smoked over Clear
96-98 Sedans
info: (need clarification) 96-98 Red/Clear Depo's are replicas of the 96-98 Red/Clear JDM SiR/Honda Integra SJ
96-98 OEM Amber - 96-98 Red/Clear JDM SiR/Honda Integra SJ
99- 00 Sedans
info: 99-00 Red/Clear Depo's are replicas of the 99-00 Red/Clear Philippine SiR/Honda Integra SJ
99-00 OEM Amber - 99-00 Red/Clear Philippine SiR/Honda Integra SJ
96-00 Hatchbacks
96-98 OEM Amber - 99-00 OEM non-Amber - 96-00 Clear Hatchback Aftermarkets
Engine
A clean sweep for a first, WD40 and/or simple green/engine degreaser and a pressure washer or just simple a hose does a great job. Make sure you cover electrical components though.
If you have a D-series and want to modify the engine for power, but don't have at least $2,000 to spend, you should just give up and save up until then. Read this thread for more info:
Guide to Answer the Common Question: Just Bought a Civic! How Do I Make It Faster?
~$20 Valve Cover Painting
DIY
Suspension:
All that would be said here is if you go cheap, you get cheap. Suspension is crucial to your safety.
In most cases, when referring to Civics coilovers, the coilovers would be a whole aftermarket kit (shocks + springs combo [adjustable or not]), Shocks being just the shock absorbers, and springs/coil sleeves being the springs that are wound around the shock.
Lowering springs w/ stock shocks: Bump stops may need to be cut in half + dust boot (get alignment, shocks may blow)
Adjustable springs w/ stock shocks: Bump stops may need to be cut in half+ dust boot (get alignment, shocks may blow)
A great option to refer to is a rear sway bar, this reduces body roll and helps increase handling. If you feel like you're falling out of your seat in a deep turn, tires slipping, car feels like it's twisting, then get a stabilizer/sway bar and chances of that will decrease, I wish I had purchased a rear sway bar as my first mod.
EK Honda Civic Coilovers Install
The common answer to be the best bang for buck suspension setup,would definitely be Koni Yellow/Ground Control combo. More info here:
Need help choosing suspension? Click here!!
Wheels:
You have a many options as long as they fit your bolt pattern (commonly 4x100 unless a lug-conversion has been done)
OEM wheels, a replica knockoffwheel along the lines of (XXR. Drag. Rota etc
or the more genuine brands such as Work, CCW, SSR, Mugen, Rays, Enkei, etc;.
14's seem to small, 17's are pushing it for the big side (the rice days are over)
Keep your range between 15 & 16 with good tires.
Inspirational / Picture Threads:
Show off your 6th Generation Honda Civic (1996-2000)
** The offical 96-00 civic 4dr thread ** PART 2
***POST ALL SILVER EJ6, EJ8, & EM1 COUPE***
Calling all BLACK 96-00 Civic Coupes!
Post your rare 96-00 Civic parts
Post Up Your LCA's & Exhaust pics.
**The Official RAYS Volk Racing Wheel Thread**
**OFFICIAL ENKEI WHEELS THREAD (RPF1, 92, J-Speed, etc...)**
All Sportmax & XXR wheels, Post them here.
Post your CCW wheels
Low Offset Wheel Thread
Official Konig Wheel thread
-=Official SPRINT HART Wheels thread=-
♠ Shaved, Tucked, Customized Engine Bays - Pics, Theory, Discussion ♠
Post Your DIY Door Panel Inserts!!!
*!*!*Civic's w/ SiR bumper moldings*!*!*
6th Generation FAQ
WARNING: BEFORE ADDING MODIFICATIONS, SPEND YOUR MONEY ON NECESSARY REPAIRS.
Please, do the roads, safety of other people, your car, & yourself a favor by fixing any problems with it now.Before you plan on slapping on some accessories or modifications, ensure your vehicle is safe, reliable,& sturdy. An overall tune-up would be the best modification if the vehicle hasn't been maintained properly. This may include all fluids (oil, antifreeze/coolant, transmission oil, brake, &/or power steering, & clutch). A distributor cap, rotor, or spark plug + wire change too, suspension bushings, brake pads/rotors etc;. You get the gist, just make sure your vehicle fits spec reliability before you do anything, or else your car will just be riced junk with accessories.
IF YOU HAVE A D16Y7/D16Y8 ENGINE AND YOU WANT TO DUMP $1000's INTO HEADERS/INTAKE/EXHAUST FOR "POWER" YOU'RE WASTING YOUR TIME. YOU'RE BUYING SOUND MODS, NOT POWER MODS. THESE ARE ECONOMICAL ENGINES FOR GAS MILEAGE, NOT HORSEPOWER. THERES NO HIDDEN POTENTIAL POWER FOR AN ALL MOTOR BUILD, DYNO RESULTS PROVE THAT THEY GIVE NO NOTICEABLE POWER WORTH THE MONEY. . SO READ THE LINK BELOW UNDER "ENGINE".
I. Interior
-Integra Dual Bend Shifter
-Weighted Shift ****
-Wide Angle Rear view mirror
-Dome light LED upgrade
-Integra/Civic EX/SI Map light
-Seat Swap
-Cluster Plug&Play
>>Clusters requiring modification
-Steering wheel swaps
-Headliner/Carpet Dye
II. Exterior
-Front Lips
-Rear Lips
-Mudguards
-Fog Lights
-Tail Lights
III. Engine
IV. Suspension
V. Wheels
Interior
~$20+ (usually under $20) used Integra dual-bend shifter into 96-00 Civic
(Will need to be cut/dremeled to fit)
I highly recommend this, a noticeably different feel /short throw and worth the effort.
Length to cut
Shifter Installation Tutorial
~$??? weighted shift ****
If you want a different feel in shifting but don't want to do the shifter mod mentioned above, purchase a weighted ****. I personally use the PWJDM and it makes a huge difference.
~$25 240mm Convex Broadway rear view mirror (Ebay/Amazon)
If you're not a fan of a Convex, then a flat version is available.
~$5 48-LED panel Dome Light insert
Amazon Listing - All Bulb Sizes for Civic
~$??? used Integra/ Civic EX or SI Map-Light DIY
Integra Map Light - Map + Trunk Light Tutorial -
~$??? - Seat Swap
More Info
96-00 CIVIC:
-Front-
•92-95 Civic w/EK rails
•94-01 Integra w/EK rails
•97-01 CR-V w/EK rails
•92-97 Del Sol w/EK rails
•97-01 Prelude w/EK rails
•97-02 Accord Coupe w/EK rails
•01-03 CL w/EK rails*Requires 12v for heat feature
-Rear-(Hatch)
•92-95 Civic *Hatchback only
•94-01 Integra *Hatchback only
•02-06 RSX
-Rear-(Coupe)
•01-05 Civic Si*EP3 only
-Rear-(Sedan)
•92-95 Civic Sedan
•94-01 Integra Sedan
Cluster Modifications
Any 96-00 based Civic chassis cluster will plug & play no modification, this applies internationally.
Japanese, European, Asian, Australian/New Zealand, Canadian clusters will fit in USDM Civic's too.
97-01 CRV's - JDM Honda SMX - CDM (Canada) Acura 1.6 EL - Isuzu Gemini - Honda Orthia - JDM Honda Integra SJ also
Modification Required Clusters:
94-01 Integra
03-04 Civic
S2000
~$??? Steering wheel swaps
"What OEM Wheel fits w/ tutorial links"
~$?? Headliner/carpet dyeing (can be reupholstered easily too which may be better)
Carpet
"Post Your Interior Thread" (For Inspirational purposes)
Exterior
1996-1998 / 1999-2000 Civic Body Differences & Front & Rear Conversion
96 - 98 Lip Options
If purchasing a replica lip, do yourself a favor & get a polyurethane replica, they're much more flexible than the ABS plastic which may crack & break very easily, although their fitment may be more precise (not as precise as OEM or genuine of course)
99 - 00 Lip options
Info: When it comes to replica 99-00 front lips, the OEM 99-00 front lip is the same as the Civic Type R, & the 99-00 EM1/SI coupe front lip. so... CTR = Si = OEM.
You can tell the difference between an OEM/CTR/SI front lip, & a replica version because the replica has more flare on the sides & extends further than the OEM/CTR/Si. It's obvious if you focus.
Same applies as mentioned above for the 96-98 replica lips purchases & quality.
Rear lips:
Info: There is a difference on rear bumpers between the years & models.
96-98 Coupes/Sedans share the same rear bumper
99-00 Coupes/Sedans share the same rear bumper
96-00 Hatchbacks share the same rear bumper
Mudguard options:
Front mudguards:
FOR COUPE = Any '96-'00 Civic mudguards will fit.
FOR HATCH = Any '96-'00 Civic mudguards will fit.
FOR SEDAN = Any '96-'00 Civic mudguards will fit.
Rear mudguards:
FOR '96-'98 COUPE = '96-'98 Civic coupe/sedan mudguards fit.
FOR '99-'00 COUPE = '99-'00 Civic coupe/sedan mudguards fit.
FOR '96-'00 HATCH = '96-'00 Civic hatch mudguards fit.
FOR '96-'98 SEDAN = '96-'98 Civic coupe/sedan mudguards fit.
FOR '99-'00 SEDAN = '99-'00 Civic coupe/sedan mudguards fit.
Rear RSX mudguards have been cut to fit rear bumpers with rear lips on hatchbacks.
Fog Lights options
96-98 Circle - 96-98 Square
99-00 Circle
DIY 96-98 Civic square fog light wiring tutorial
DIY 99-00 Civic Ebay Fog Light Wiring tutorial
Info: In the US, USDM (OEM) Fog-lights came in clear lenses. The OEM Brand for Honda fog-lights would be "Raybrig" or "Stanley". Another common brand is "Depo" which are replica aftermarket foglights. They tend to leak, & install/fitment won't be 100% as OEM, so be aware you get what you pay for. Esuse is another aftermarket brand, of higher quality than Depo though.
Also, for the 99-00's, the OEM ones came with (as mentioned before) clear Raybrig lights, & a gray cover like this. Often, you may see yellow lights & a black cover, as that's usually the "JDM" ebay/replica aftermarket version. P.S: PWJDM Lights are Depo brand, not OEM. This is because in Japan the 99-00 lights are yellow Stanley's from the factory. As an aesthetic option, you can always get clear foglights & tint them with yellow tint, if you decide to change your mind, you may remove the tint & go back to clear fogs.
Tail-light options:
They're separated into different categories as to what matches the body, the coupes & hatcbacks are interchangeable in all years. however the sedans have two different trunks depending on the year.
96-00 Coupes
96-98 OEM Amber - 99-00 OEM Non-Amber - 96-98 Red tint over amber - 99-00 Smoked over Clear
96-98 Sedans
info: (need clarification) 96-98 Red/Clear Depo's are replicas of the 96-98 Red/Clear JDM SiR/Honda Integra SJ
96-98 OEM Amber - 96-98 Red/Clear JDM SiR/Honda Integra SJ
99- 00 Sedans
info: 99-00 Red/Clear Depo's are replicas of the 99-00 Red/Clear Philippine SiR/Honda Integra SJ
99-00 OEM Amber - 99-00 Red/Clear Philippine SiR/Honda Integra SJ
96-00 Hatchbacks
96-98 OEM Amber - 99-00 OEM non-Amber - 96-00 Clear Hatchback Aftermarkets
Engine
A clean sweep for a first, WD40 and/or simple green/engine degreaser and a pressure washer or just simple a hose does a great job. Make sure you cover electrical components though.
If you have a D-series and want to modify the engine for power, but don't have at least $2,000 to spend, you should just give up and save up until then. Read this thread for more info:
Guide to Answer the Common Question: Just Bought a Civic! How Do I Make It Faster?
~$20 Valve Cover Painting
DIY
Suspension:
All that would be said here is if you go cheap, you get cheap. Suspension is crucial to your safety.
In most cases, when referring to Civics coilovers, the coilovers would be a whole aftermarket kit (shocks + springs combo [adjustable or not]), Shocks being just the shock absorbers, and springs/coil sleeves being the springs that are wound around the shock.
Lowering springs w/ stock shocks: Bump stops may need to be cut in half + dust boot (get alignment, shocks may blow)
Adjustable springs w/ stock shocks: Bump stops may need to be cut in half+ dust boot (get alignment, shocks may blow)
A great option to refer to is a rear sway bar, this reduces body roll and helps increase handling. If you feel like you're falling out of your seat in a deep turn, tires slipping, car feels like it's twisting, then get a stabilizer/sway bar and chances of that will decrease, I wish I had purchased a rear sway bar as my first mod.
EK Honda Civic Coilovers Install
The common answer to be the best bang for buck suspension setup,would definitely be Koni Yellow/Ground Control combo. More info here:
Need help choosing suspension? Click here!!
Wheels:
You have a many options as long as they fit your bolt pattern (commonly 4x100 unless a lug-conversion has been done)
OEM wheels, a replica knockoffwheel along the lines of (XXR. Drag. Rota etc
or the more genuine brands such as Work, CCW, SSR, Mugen, Rays, Enkei, etc;. 14's seem to small, 17's are pushing it for the big side (the rice days are over)
Keep your range between 15 & 16 with good tires.
Inspirational / Picture Threads:
Show off your 6th Generation Honda Civic (1996-2000)
** The offical 96-00 civic 4dr thread ** PART 2
***POST ALL SILVER EJ6, EJ8, & EM1 COUPE***
Calling all BLACK 96-00 Civic Coupes!
Post your rare 96-00 Civic parts
Post Up Your LCA's & Exhaust pics.
**The Official RAYS Volk Racing Wheel Thread**
**OFFICIAL ENKEI WHEELS THREAD (RPF1, 92, J-Speed, etc...)**
All Sportmax & XXR wheels, Post them here.
Post your CCW wheels
Low Offset Wheel Thread
Official Konig Wheel thread
-=Official SPRINT HART Wheels thread=-
♠ Shaved, Tucked, Customized Engine Bays - Pics, Theory, Discussion ♠
Post Your DIY Door Panel Inserts!!!
*!*!*Civic's w/ SiR bumper moldings*!*!*
Re: Want to do something different..
I'm going to go out on a limb and guess that you don't actually mean B18A. That's a weak, twin-carb motor from the late 80's, and isn't even really a B.
Trending Topics
Re: Want to do something different..
See, that does make more sense. Like I said, put in your research now, otherwise you'll just end up disappointed with a build that doesn't really do what you wanted it to. Different motors, even within the same designation, act differently. A B16 can rev stupidly high, and make power through it's powerband. A B20 can't rev quite as high (at least, not without a considerable bit of bottom end work), but moves a lot of air, and makes more torque. A B18 is a healthy medium that loves forced induction, and can range from stupidly cheap to stupidly expensive.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post