A few days ago my GF bought a 4 banger Auto 4 dr and as soon as we looked at it i knew it was going to need some things but the more I look the more I find

Tube seals were puking, plug wires looked original or close to it, bad motor mount, warped rotors/bad caliper (haven't pulled it apart yet), bypassed power window relay, D4 light is flashing was going to check the code today but didnt get to it, needs at least 2 tires and maybe tire rods with alignment or maybe a rack (again haven't checked yet), no muffler from the midpipe back, large cracks in the drive belts.

Whoever owned the car before the 18 year old we bought it from wrote the T-belt had been done at 73Kish on the inner fender with paint marker. I want to do the T-belt soon, I pulled the timing cover back and the belt didn't look terrible but you never know.

Today I replaced the valve cover gasket, spark plugs, plug wire, cap and rotor. Learned the battery terminals were loose and after I changed all that the car wouldn't start Runs alot better thats for sure. I plan on welding a FART CAN on it this coming weekend too HAHA!

Ill post some pics soon, didn't get to it before it got dark.

 

Before you blame the rotors being warped, verify that the pads are properly bedded in. These are Hub over Rotor design, it will require removal of the hub/wheel bearing assembly to replace the rotors. After doing it once it is fairly simple to do, but can be a right PITA the first time doing it with no guidance.

If you post up your location a local may be willing to point out some quick tips/tricks/places to press off/on the bearing. If you get into removing the rotor, it is best to replace the bearing and LBJ while you are in there.

Post up the D4 codes when you can.

 

DDDDDUUUUUDDDEEE

I was hoping that was only the newer accords, I couldnt remember what year they started that whole design with the Hub over rotor mess.

thanks for ruining my day lol.

Got some fart can action today



This is where the exhaust ended when we got it.



This is what I pieced together today with a fart can I had laying around from a 720 I parted out.

 

Checked the code for the trans and it also had a stored CEL

Trans - #2 Lock up shift solenoid from what Ive read on another site. At a glance on google a new one is $250, not trying to spend that money yet.

CEL - #43 Fuel delivery issue. Been told its a bad O2 sensor, just trying to get a second opinion.

Soooo after the tune up a hard start issue in the morning started almost like it was starving for fuel. Then replaced the fuel filter, burned some seafoam through the intake and added some to the gas tank no change. Kinda stumped.

still need to get drive belts and an alignment, got 2 tires the other day, and will be pulling the distributor apart soon to replace the inner seal and the O-ring in the head.

 

SOOOO just ordered front wheel bearings, rotors, pads, upper/lower balljoints, front motor mount, and torque strut.

The mounts are cake Ive done those before. I have a few things on the brakes/balljoints that I have questions about.

1. Any advice on the wheel bearing replacement? I watched Eric the car guys video about them and Ive cut outter races off VW hubs before so thats nothing new. Anything I should be aware of? Ive replaced a lot of Subaru Wheel bearings so Im not new to this just dont have access to a good press, but I do to a Sh!tty one.

2. Know of a good cheap balljoint clamp/press or a good way to fabricate one? saw one on Amazon for like $45 shipped but dunno if it will do the job without breaking..

 

Since I posted this a LOOOOONG time ago there has been a idle issue that this car has been having. Its only on Cold start up the idle drops down to nearly nothing until it starts to get warm after warm it idles fine. Occasionally will die on start up too but it is very rare after not starting it for a few days.

I replaced the T-belt, Water pump, all the shaft seals, T-belt tensioners, drive belts, coolant temp sensor, 02 sensor, and replaced the Distributor shaft seal and o-ring.

This issue started after replacing the spark plugs and wires, didnt change after I replaced all of that other stuff. Well got a little better after I change the coolant temp sensor. Ive played with the Idle speed screw on the throttle body and increased the idle but still takes awhile to get past the low idle when cold.

A "Honda" guy I work with said these cars have issues with the throttle body and could be the issue but Ive never read anything about that and I imagine it would throw a CEL but maybe not.

 

With wheel bearings/front suspension work there are a few writeups in the FAQ at the top of the page with tricks on how to break down the front suspension. If you do not have a press, just pay a mechanic or machine shop to pull off/press on the bearing.
Check your local parts store(usually chain stores) have a tool rental, you will need the Honda BJ adapter and the normal large C clamp to remove the LBJ.
Look in the FAQ for info and pics.

Normally you never touch the idle screw. If the car is not properly idling the IAC is either gummed up or needs to be replaced. Clean the TB with a rag to remove any coking.
Verify the base ignition timing is correct. Warm the car up jump the two wire blue SCS connector and check the timing.

If code 43 verify the fuel pressure is correct, check your wiring harness for damage/corrosion.

D4 code 2 is for the lockup solenoid, check the wiring/connectors to the upper pair of solenoids for corrosion or damage.
With key OFF remove 26P connector at TCU, there should be 12-24Ω between the GRN/BLK and BLK/RED wires.
With key ON there should be 0 Volts.
Look for damage to wiring grounds or shorting in the wiring if you find otherwise.

 

could be a main relay

 

You need to clean the metal outer mesh of the iacv, clean out your fitv, and ignore what the last guy said about the main relay being bad.