Hey Guys! Just picked up a B16A block today and I am super excited to start build something cool! the following list came from my research from other peoples builds. So feel free to give me suggestions, advice or recommendations since this is my first build. keep in mind that my goal is 400whp in a 97 civic hatch. my turbo knowledge isn't very good but I want a fast spooling turbo and the car will rarely see over 4k RPMs since its a daily driver. Thanks!

Block
B16A1:
JE 9.0:1 Pistons:
Crower Connecting Rods:
ARP Head Studs:
Darton Sleeves:
ACL Main Bearing:
Stock Crankshaft:
Hasport Mounts:

Head
B16A2:
Golden Eagle Head Gasket:
Crower Valves:
Crower Springs/Retainers:
Crower Stage 2 Turbo Cams w/ Keepers and Guides:
Eldelbrock Victor X Intake Manifold:
OEM Intake Manifold Gasket:

Turbo
GO-AUTOWORKS Tuner Kit:
Turbonetics T3/T4 50 Trim .63a/r
Tial Q 50mm BOV
GO-AUTOWORKS Stainless Log Manifold
GO-AUTOWORKS SS 2.5" Downpipe
GO-AUTOWORKS Dumptube
Tial 38mm MVS Wastegate w/ 14psi Spring Combination
GO-AUTOWORKS Pro Oiling Kit
GO-AUTOWORKS Race Charge Pipe Kit
GO-AUTOWORKS R FMIC Bar & Plate Intercooler

Electronics
Blitz Boost Controller:
HKS Turbo Timer:
Oil, Boost, EGT, A/F Gauges:
Mounting Bezels for Gauges:

Fuel/Ignition
Honda s300:
RC1000 Injectors:
AEM Fuel Rail:
AEM Fuel Pressure Regulator:
Walbro 255 Fuel Pump
MSD Digital 6A:
MSD Blaster SS Coil:
MSD Distributor Cap:

Drivetrain
B16A2 Transmission:
Action Stage 3 Clutch:
Action Lightened Flywheel:
Hasport Axles:
Quaife LSD:

 

There's nothing wrong per se, with the GA turbo kit, but you could definitely go a lot cheaper by piecing together your own hardware. The AEM rail and FPR, as well as the MSD garbage are all completely unnecessary for your power goals. Lightweight flywheels aren't good for boost. The Quaife LSD is GREAT, but you can get the same thing (and the same quality) for cheaper from MFactory.

Good work setting a goal and making a list before jumping into it I've seen too many builds go all over the place because the owner didn't set a clear, defined goal for themselves. Have you thought at all about wheels, tires, suspension, and braking? A car is only as fast as the tires and suspension allow, and a fast car is only good if it can stop, too!

 

yes got my wheels tires and suspension dialed and cool less parts means less money haha and less money the build will get finished faster. ive looked into piecing together a kit but id rather get something new and have some assurance

 

I mean, you can still piece together a new kit. The kit I'm piecing together involves a CX Racing "basic" kit, cheap eBay one piece piping and intercooler, and a Precision turbo to replace the garbage chinacharger that comes with the kit. Sell the garbage turbo to some tool on facebook for $150, and you have a fully functional kit (minus fueling) for under a grand.

 

True never thought about that way

 

My exact plan for months now lol.

 

I saw that kit and I'm thinking about doing the same. But idk about trusting the turbo manifold from chinatown, the log cast iron manifold from Go Autoworks is only $120 with a centered 38mm wastegate flange.

 

The .50 trim don't get you to 400whp, I know thy offer a .57 trim or a billet turbo as option with go-auto tuner Kits. It's a little more money but try the 3" downpipe, it can be done with 2.5 but do it right the first time, when the time to raise the power comes (it comes believe me) you not have to buy another downpipe.

For 400whp not lose your time with MSD, stock do the trick.

Not waste your money in crower stage 2 turbo cams you will be better with Type R cams.

The Rc 1000's are not the best choice knowing to fail. You not have to enter in the bandwagon of I.D. but something like Deatschwerk, Five-O or precision will've a better choice. For intake gasket try to use a thermal one they do the difference.

 

my cx racing intercooler and piping kit is doing great for me at 500 hp. in fact when i switched over to the larger cx intercooler and aluminum piping instead of steel i had to add a bunch of fuel over 7000 rpm. maybe a bit more power up top lol.

here, ill edit your list:

Block
B16A1: trade that **** for a ls/b20 block the displacement does matter
JE 9.0:1 Pistons:
Crower Connecting Rods: no reason not to get eagle rods
ARP Head Studs:
Darton Sleeves: ok if ur going to sleeve it, go 84mm get some displacment back
ACL Main Bearing: oem if you can because of different sizes. acl are good too tho
Stock Crankshaft:
Hasport Mounts:

you can go from a 1.6L to a 2.0L if your get an ls/gsr/itr block and sleeve it to 84mm. it will be night and day ive done it personally

Head
B16A2:
Golden Eagle Head Gasket:
Crower Valves: stock valves dont **** around
Crower Springs/Retainers: id run supertech 70lb springs and k20 retainers
Crower Stage 2 Turbo Cams w/ Keepers and Guides: blah blah itr cams and be done
Eldelbrock Victor X Intake Manifold: honestly may be too big of a plenum for less than 1.8L motor
OEM Intake Manifold Gasket:

Turbo
GO-AUTOWORKS Tuner Kit:
Turbonetics T3/T4 50 Trim .63a/r 57 or 60 trim at least
Tial Q 50mm BOV
GO-AUTOWORKS Stainless Log Manifold nope, mini ram at minimum
GO-AUTOWORKS SS 2.5" Downpipe you mean 3" turboback exhaust
GO-AUTOWORKS Dumptube
Tial 38mm MVS Wastegate w/ 14psi Spring Combination lord no get a smaller spring.
GO-AUTOWORKS Pro Oiling Kit
GO-AUTOWORKS Race Charge Pipe Kit
GO-AUTOWORKS R FMIC Bar & Plate Intercooler

Electronics
Blitz Boost Controller: waste, get a mac solenoid and run bbg in hondata
HKS Turbo Timer: save ur cash and just sit in the car for 60 sec while it idle down
Oil, Boost, EGT, A/F Gauges:
Mounting Bezels for Gauges:

Fuel/Ignition
Honda s300:
RC1000 Injectors: not a fan of rc. this has been discussed already. i use precision no probs
AEM Fuel Rail:
AEM Fuel Pressure Regulator: you can run stock fpr
Walbro 255 Fuel Pump
MSD Digital 6A: you mean all stock distributor with new plugs/ cap/ rotor/wires
MSD Blaster SS Coil:
MSD Distributor Cap:

Drivetrain
B16A2 Transmission: if you are gonna be in the trans, get a gsr 5th gear.
Action Stage 3 Clutch: might need more clutch
Action Lightened Flywheel: go find an itr oem flywheel. still all steel but 12 lbs
Quaife LSD: good call/ mfactory works awesome too and cheaper

 

awesome thank you for advice! ill keep in yours in mind and ill keep looking up other peoples setups and asking questions.

 

For a welded ram, top mount, or sidewinder, I would agree with you...but for a cast log mani, I've never had a problem with the cheap ones.

 

Me too I'm using cx racing 29x9x3 intercooler with SRE piping and Precision injectors.

 

I daily 12 psi on my GReddy kit I got on Craigslist for $600

My kit on my b16:

TD-05 18g Greddy Turbo
Greddy log style manifold
GReddy BOV
Greddy Elbow/Downpipe
Greddy intake pipe
Greddy Airnix Filter
RC 310cc Injectors
Megan testpipe
Oil lines
JDM Sport Intercooler
Full cxracing b16 piping
Tuned on s300

 

Hate to break it to you but if you want to make 400whp on a civic and not go over 4k rpms then good luck building boost.

A 57 trim .63 ar will make 400whp but that'll be the limit. Boost won't come in until 4k rpms. That garret wont cut it. A 50 trim .48 ar will get you 350 max.

 

thing is pretty sick, plan on a build sort of similar to this.