I'm afraid I may have bent the frame on my car after a few potholes and curbs since my car is also a daily driver. I know a lot of members here have had their frames bent back into factory specs because they bent them originally w2w racing.

1) For those of you that have corrected frame damage, how much did it typically cost? Also what kind of damage did you sustain?

2) How much would you suspect it would cost just to have the car mounted on the machine to take measurements? I am not positive the frame is damaged, but I would like to check before adding my auto-cross bound suspension pieces.

Any help on this matter is much appreciated.

 

I haven't had to do it to the Civic but I did have a Toyota FX16 GTS several years ago that had a bent frame (I hit a piece of 4x4 lumber on the freeway). The total cost to have the car evaluated and straightened out was around $400 as I remember. They basically put it on a huge rack that has numerous vertical pins that insert into the chassis. The process of evaluating it is the first step in fixing it since they use the same machine to measure the deflection from spec.

 

If you didn't bend up any suspension parts, then the frame is fine. Just check the alignment. If your caster is all out of whack, then you have something to worry about.

As for actually getting it checked and pulled, it's about $600 around here to get it pulled. That's for any sort of twist or single rail bent out of shape.

Warren

 

If the right front isn't acting funny from toe, it is acting funny from caster.

Hypothetical question: How would you know if the frame is bent if the caster is out of spec but you have adjustable caster via a camber/caster kit? Would the only way to know, be to put it on the frame rack and have them check it? Anyone know how much this would cost without actually having the frame tweeked by their machines?

I fear that the front subframe is slightly bent. I clocked that curb pretty darn hard.

 

Replacing the front sub-frame isn't too complicated, but it isn't a lot of fun. Caster isn't adjustable on the Hondas so if its off any alignment shop will be able to check it.

Mike

 

Prolly like 300+ if they don't pull anything. It takes a good bit of time to setup a car on a machine.

Here's an example rebuild of a racecar:
http://www.koalamotorsport.com/ouch/default.htm

Warren

 

thats cool as hell.

the guy who caused it was an IDIOT. nice work using the grass to pass...

 

insurance companys pay 2.5 hours for set up and measure. this is drive car on frame machine. jack it up set it in the clamps. put the measuring ladder under it. set up measuring points. it pays 1 hour per pull.

this can add up when you have frame repair rates around $50 per hour.

i'd also have to say have an alignment check done first. it'll be a lot cheaper

 

Where's the 13/13 rule when you need it....

 

That step by step was truly amazing. Thanks for the link!

 

Warren, thanks for the link and the information.

Everyone else, thanks for the insight. After seeing that BMW, frame damage doesn't scare me quite as much as it used to.

<u>Here are the stages I'll be going through</u>:

Step 1: Install new Shocks/Springs

Step 2: Have alignment checked with ride height equal on each axle, but do not adjust alignment.
-If caster/camber are in spec, go on to step 5.
-If caster/camber are out of spec, go to step 3.

Step 3: Purchase new right front suspension from junkyard and install.

Step 4: If caster/camber are out of spec do not adjust alignment. Check frame and tweek as necessary.

Step 5: Take car in for corner-weighting.

Step 6: Take car in for a computer alignment.

Does this sound like a feasible plan, or am I going over board?



[Modified by mojoGSR92, 11:36 AM 10/29/2002]

 

The new springs and shocks will likely change the alignment.

 

Read through the steps again. The alignment is the last thing I do. Installing the shocks/springs, installing new right front suspension pieces, and corner-weighting will all change the alignment.

 

Won't installing the springs and shocks cause the alignment/caster/camber to go out of spec. Which means you will purchase a new front right suspension.

 

To the best of my knowledge, caster should be within factory spec regardless of ride height. If caster is not within spec, it means a suspension piece is damaged, or a mounting point has moved. Camber will go out of spec when the car is lowered, but I am checking to see if is different from left to right. If it is, then something is likely bent and will need replaced. That is what I meant by the above steps.

That is why I said to "check the alignment" but not adjust it yet. Adjusting the alignment would be the last step, and that only includes toe until I purchase the front camber kit. I've been shimming the rear upper control arms for camber adjustment. Camber will be out of factory spec, but should be the same on the left front/right front and the left rear/right rear unless something is damaged. Caster should be in factory specs regardless of ride height.

Edit: Clarifying some things.


[Modified by mojoGSR92, 1:49 PM 10/29/2002]