So like topic states, I changed my thermostat like I have many times, and I get nothing but a click or two when I turn the key over.

I did disconnect and reconnect the negative battery terminal for the job. I also removed the starter ground at the housing and remounted it before reconnecting the battery. I can't think of anything I could have done wrong, some antifreeze leaked around in the area but I don't think that'd cause any issues.

Any input will be appreciated.

 

Did you reconnect the ground for the ecu? It is located on the thermostat housing

 

I did one yesterday, first time ever lol and it was a piece of cake, fixed the cars problem too thank god.

 

The only ground I disconnected went straight to the harness which then leads straight to the starter. It is a 10mm bolt that bolts right to the housing.

 

check your battery ?

 

Ok so I got some midnight determination and went out for another look. The ground directly on the starter came out. Don't know how considering I didn't touch it. It's ground that you just slide on. The car started right up.


But back to my original problem. It is still over heating and I have no heat. WHAT NOW!?

 

You need to bleed the cooling system

 

According to Google, you, and about three other people in the past three minutes, that seems to be the solution.

I've never done that before. What is the level of difficulty and should it cost me anything?

Upper rad hose is hot, lower is cold (leading to the thermostat).

 

Ok so sounds like I just need to basically take the rad cap off, fill it with coolant, turn the car on, add coolant, squeeze it through the hoses, and continue until it is full?

 

Its pretty easy and doesnt cost anything. Heres some info on the bleeding near the end of this article. http://www.team-integra.net/forum/bl...-bleeding.html

Did you use an OEM thermostat?

 

I didn't bleed my buddies after we did it and it ran fine. make sure you're using 50/50 coolant/water, I'm sure you're aware of that lol. I'm sure bleeding it would help though.
maybe the heater valve on the firewall is clogged?

 

Thanks, and no. I had replaced the thermostat with an OEM one when I rebuilt the engine about 8 months ago (all OEM), so now I'm doubting the problem was ever the thermostat..

I hope it's not the heater valve, I read you have to pull the dash for that?

 

That's the bolt you use to bleed the coolant. Leave the radiator cap off, have the car running so the engine warms up, then open up that valve so some coolant starts dripping out. You should start to see some bubbles show within the radiator. Once you no longer see bubbles, you're done.

As a safety reminder....never open the radiator cap after the engine is warm. You can, however, leave the cap off if the car is cold and let it heat up with the cap off. It won't build up pressure until you put the cap on.

 

Thanks for the info. Heading out right now to give it a shot. I'll report back later.

 

It's up and running great. Heat is blowing nice and hot. It seems the rubber tube inside the reservoir came detached, that couldn't been the problem after all.

 

The hose in the reservoir would not cause the car to overheat or loose heat. You had other issues and still may.

 

It could have been the issue. With the hose off the cooling system is not a closed system which could cause overheating since the system cant build pressure. The same thing has happened to people who have a bad radiator cap.

 

i literally read about 4 days ago someone had the same issue, and that was their problem as well lol.

 

I think it had to have been the issue. The thermostat and coolant are only 8 months old. My suspension is fucked and has been knocking **** all over the place. I hope there are no more issues.

My thoughts exactly. When I opened the reservoir and saw the rubber hose floating around inside I knew that had to be it. There was no way for coolant to transfer back in to the rad and air was able to find it's way in to the system...Same reason why the reservoir has to be filled enough to cover the end of the rubber hose, or else air will get in.

 

I thought we didn't have a bleeder screw in our engines?

 

I didn't notice that bleeder screw there either, that pic looks like a D series. It's possible I just missed it though, it's sort of a tight area. You can bleed it from the bottom of the radiator.

 

I'm not aware of a bleeder screw. I always filled the system, turned on the car, let the engine get to full operating temp, and then burped the system using the hoses.