Is it just for looks or does it actually have some performance to it? I've read that its supposed to stabilize your rear shocks giving it zero flex.

 

What are you doing with your car?

The DC2R is already reinforced in these areas:



I'm going to say that you probably won't notice any difference unless you are running stiff springs and R-comps. And at that rate, a real cage will be 100x better anyways.

IMO it's mostly a ricer upgrade, but others will probably chime in, I'm sure.

 

^^^I agree

 

Rice

 

Thanks. Was just wondering because i always thought it was just a cheap "roll cage" kind of thing until i saw the price tag and wondered why people buy them.

when i get back from deployment I'm going to dedicate a lot of heR time in track and autox and get a beater for daily driving.

 

Yeah, save your money for mods that'll actually do something, like wheels/tires, suspension, daily beater to save the R, etc.

My feeling is that the X Bar is mostly for hard-parkers.

 

If you dont mind me asking, would a 15x8 +32 TE37SL fit on my stock height OEM suspension. I ask because i have a set of BNIB koni/GC 450F/400R that i would throw on when it comes time to change to a "better" suspension... I plan on running 225/45-15 R-S3 r-comps.

 

FYI Hankook R-S3 are street tires from Extreme Performance Summer category, they are not r-comps.

If you are trying to learn stick with OEM's are throw on the 15x8 TE's later. You want to make incremental changes to know and understand the benefits. That big of a tire might hide mistakes early on that will set you back in the long run.

 

A lot of 15x8 +32 questions lately.

Contrary to what some folks say on here (do a search to see the discussion on this), you will most certainly get rubbing with that combo with 225 tires on it if you leave your fenders as-is.

If you aren't running for time, then just do 205's on a 15x7. 225's will be faster, but it won't be significant. Rubber compound makes much more of a difference.

 

This x bar does not make much sense in my opinion, I think it would be much more beneficial to connect the strut towers with the sheet metal the trunk lid is attached to, there are 5 layers of sheet metal in that area and it looks like a really strong part of the chassis. A rear tower bar is also barely noticeable, just a hint more oversteer with it than without is what I noticed.

Imo, the weak point of the chassis is in torsion because there is only 1 layer of sheet metal in the roof above the b pillar. Not sure how to make it stronger there though, maybe you need to weld on additional OEM sheet metal like those guys at Opera Performance do.

Make sure to get a 3p front tower bar though, that one makes a huge difference. I would go for something like the Ultra Racing bar because it is really good value for money in my opinion. It makes the suspension work better and makes the car more stable during braking.

 

looks