Hi everyone, I just bought a used 1999 Honda civic ex 2 door coupe, and wanted to ask, what Performance parts should I consider to make my car run faster? more in terms of HP and/or speed. thnx.

 

if it doesn't have a b-series swap one in. Upgrading a single cam is pointless N/A even boosting it you're limited to 200hp area.

 

Also I'm new to Honda cars and do not have much car knowledge. So what does b-series mean?

 

It's the DOHC engines found in the civic Si and more commonly the Acura Integra's they fit nicely into civic tho. power rangers from 160hp to 200 they're found in 1.6l and 1.8l versions. Do a bit of reading around here you'll lean quick just hold off on spending money till you know what you want.

 

Yeah I like to do my research before I consider any of the possibilities and save some money. Thnx for the advice

 

Also I read in another Honda forum that you can turbo the b series engine if you wanted to. That's also what I'm considering once I have the money to swap to a b series engine if its possible.

 

Don't waste your time with engine bolt-ons. They're nothing but bling and/or noise generators. That said, it doesn't matter if your car makes 97 hp, or 997 hp, without the right suspension, tires, and brakes, you're just going to flop around on the road/track/strip like a dying fish.

Start off by investing in those parts. Tires first, which will vary a LOT depending on where you live. Brakes from there - You can never go wrong with Brembo blanks and Hawk or EBC for pads; Use a mid-range compound for daily driving. Suspension, if you want affordable and functional, Koni "Yellows" with Ground Control springs are the classic go-to. They've been tested in every scenario imaginable, take abuse, and they're both backed by great companies. I've heard good things about Progress CS-II's as well, but have no personal experience there.

Once you have all that done, then you can start worrying about going faster. Here's the general breakdown of what to expect, power-wise, with a tune that'll keep the motor healthy if you do it right.

D series
Stock motor - ~100whp in good condition
Stock motor with turbo - ~200 whp
Forged internals, turbo - ~250-270 whp

B series
Stock motor - ~150-200 whp in good condition, depending on which motor you use
Stock motor, turbo - ~250-330 whp
Forged internals, turbo - ~350-300 whp

There are also options for H swaps, H2B (H series motor w/ B series transmission), K, and even C or J (Honda V6) if you're handy with fabrication. There's also transmissions to look into - Different transmissions have different gear ratios, and will put power to the wheels differently. Shorter gears gives you faster acceleration with higher revs on the highway, while longer gears give you slower acceleration with lower revs on the highway. Then there's differentials (open vs locked vs automatic torque biasing).

The last thing you need to remember is this: A Honda is not like any other car you've driven in the past. They're lightweight chassis', and the power goes to the front. You don't need a boatload of power to keep up with big, heavy cars, and anything past 250-300 for an inexperienced driver can get scary to drive. Until you've been behind the wheel on a track, or handled that kind of wheel-wrenching power, you're an inexperienced driver.

This is all covered in the FAQ's sticky. If you have any other basic questions like this one, please read that sticky before posting - you might just be able to help yourself.

 

Hopefully, your car has a manual transmission. Not always about HP when driving especially in winding roads and turns. Get a set of lowering springs, reasonably priced 15" rims and a low profile tires and you can have fun in that lightweight chick magnet.

If you don't need vehicle inspections in your state you could rip out the catalytic converter screens (at your own risk). It will give you maybe a few HP gain, but shifting will be smoother and the car will feel as if pulls better. Remove the timing belt cover, no HP gains but your car will sound a bit more bad *** in the cabin. Most important is maintenance: new timing belt if it hasn't been done within 80,000 miles. New oil, oil filter, air filter, fuel filter and PVC valve (if no recent parts/service records provided). Clean throttle body, IAVC and do a valve lash if not done in past 20,000 miles.

 

Only do what is in bold. The rest is terrible advice.

 

I say this every time I see a thread like this.
First "upgrade" should be an alarm/security for the car. No point in putting money in it if you can't keep it in the driveway.
Next, IMO, suspension is the best mod for a car. No car is more fun to drive than one that handles well. Fast or slow taking corners is fun. Add some GOOD tires/wheels and you're glued to the ground.
Then put some power to it.

 

investigate/research on the matter....set a plan/goal....rethink your options....and if you still want to go that route and you have the capital then start from the most expensive parts down.

 

I recommended suspension upgrade (lowering springs) and lower profile tires for better handling. However, doctordick called it terrible advice. I said "at you own risk" rip out cat screens, it will do what I said it will so, it's not terrible advice, it's just a choice. Read before you talk son.

 

Lowering springs on stock shocks is stupid, and will fry the shocks. "Low profile" tires don't magically make your car handle better. Gutting your cat will give zero noticeable power gains - it's been proven. Yes, your "advice" was terrible advice.

 

Prove anything you just said. No magic, just common sense that lower profile tires equals less roll and bounce, especially wider ones.

My quote "If you don't need vehicle inspections in your state you could rip out the catalytic converter screens (at your own risk). It will give you maybe a few HP gain, but shifting will be smoother and the car will feel as if pulls better." Notice I said maybe a few HP gains, and it definitely will shift smoother. Please read before you vomit words.

Stock shocks can last years on lowered springs.

 

no one needs to prove anything it's just common knowledge besides lowering spring with shocks are out dated now a days with full body coilovers available for cheap. just get a test pipe instead of hacking out the cat I have 225,50,15 R888's those aren't "low profile" tires but they are an R compound tires. Learn what you're talking about before you say it and then get mad when ppl who potentially work on cars for a living correct you.

 

Okay, coilovers and lowering springs they do the same thing and that is they lower the car to improve handling. Again, a choice for the OP. Why pay for a test pipe? He has an EX it's a cat-back.

Here's what ebay calls lower priced coilovers set of 4: http://www.ebay.com/sch/Coil-Springs...%2520Aspirated which look exactly like lowering springs.. coincidence?

Here's your cheap coil over for 1 unit only (just an example) http://www.ebay.com/itm/Monroe-Shock...0250b8&vxp=mtr

If daddy's paying for all your parts then by all means go for the best, otherwise try to keep the price in perspective of the real value of your 15 year old car, which is basically very little.

 

You realize just lowering a car does not improve handling? You realize gutting a cat on a stock D/B series engine will do nothing?

I can not believe no one else did not jump on the idea you gave to remove the timing cover and even more idiotic was the reason why.

If you can't give good advice stop giving advice at all

 

Probably the most moronic thing I have heard on here.....

 

Ohhh god I didn't even realize that those are "coilover sleeves" idiot not a fullbody coilover like I was talking about. the 2nd link is a stock strut assembly....no I pay for my own parts actually and have a good job to fund my hobby's unlike most broke *** Honda owners.

 

Have you removed your cat screens or used a test pipe? If not, you wouldn't know how it improves shifting and "feels" like the car is pulling better. Lowering a car without a doubt improves handling, and drag. Remember: even a little improvement is an improvement none-the-less. I'm not trying to argue with you boys, please just read. Words like may, possibly, might are all grey areas and not definitive.

 

I have two race cars, a swapped Honda and a daily. I have owned many other cars especially Hondas, I think I have some experience

For removing the cat it will help on a car with actual power, on a B/D series no, no it will not. Your butt dyno may tell you one thing but it only feels faster.

Please explain to me this shifting smoother theory you have?

No, lowering a car on shitty suspension parts can decrease handling and actually make it worse. It might improve drag but that has little to do with handling.

I am not arguing either, just pointing out your mistakes. I will not call you a Moron or Idiot or any other personal attack, but I may call your ideas Idiotic or Moronic.

 

So, are you saying that it won't be louder inside the cabin when it's removed? Try it and tell me I'm wrong. If it's so moronic than why is it one of the reasons so many people do it? Your *** is made for turds not for talking, please shut up.

 

it won't do anything removing the sound deadening will however....derp why didn't you think of that ?. Don't come in here and act like you know what you're talking about you just come off as a ricer.

 

I respect you for that. Cheers.

 

There is a reason there is a cover on there, and there is a reason people remove them. Your reason makes no sense.