On my 97 ex just recently started to hear noise from the head and then found out it was valve ticking so here comes the real question I've asked a Freind he siad to retard the ignition timing until the valves stop tickling but when I did some research it say it's mostly for Diffrent power out puts in rpm ranges so back to what I have to say I only hear the valve noise around 2k-4ish if that could give any clues so do I have to do valve lash adjust and check my mechanical timing ? Thnx any help will be appreciated

 

Ignore your friend, and do a valve lash adjustment.

 

some tap is normal on these older Honda's but as said check lash and adjust if needed.

 

thnx guys umm also what if my mechanical timing is off how would i fix that do i have to take my timing belt off to do that and thnx agian btw could a lose timing belt cause vlave ticking like as in very loud

 

If your mechanical timing is off, you would need to remove the belt, readjust everything, then reinstall. You would notice other problems, though, if you had jumped a tooth.

 

umm can u list some problems that could acur if i have a jumped tooth like would bad idle be one ? and thnx for the advice man

 

loss of power would be the biggest problem.

 

loss of power as in when ur flooring it and you can feel all your power stop around 4k rpm then pick back up after vtec and then start acting hella weird around 6500k rpm like in *** when u hit 6500k rpm it starts to sputter ??

 

Also what feeler Guage would you guys recomand ? Found some on snap on they any good

 

No it wouldn't cause a noticeable loss why ppl speared that is beyond me, you'd loose a few psi of compression but not enough to feel it. As for your question ANY will do no need for a fancy feeler gauge.

 

because when my Dodge jumped 1 toothyou would notice a large drop in power

 

Would these do the job ?

 

yes those would do fine.

@ajbardo are you talking about mechanical timing being off or lash being out of spec two different things...

 

I know. I was replying to this question.

 

@b_swapped93 I also would need this tool to ?

 

yes^ it's virtually impossible without it.

 

Thnx for all the help man I ordered all the tools and will be dion the lash adjustment soon thnx agian for all the help

 

no its not. Use a 10 millimeter closed end wrench and a flat head screwdriver. A friend of mine and myself adjusted my valves in 40 minutes using that method.

 

On a VTEC B-series yah it's 100% impossible, heck I'm 90% sure it's impossible to do it without that tool on DOHC engines I assumed OP had a swap he didn't say if still using a single cam.

 

Ok I'm willing to learn something new. Please tell me why I didn't do it in 40 min? I just checked the head to make sure what I own because I didn't want to give false info. My car is a 98 ex with a d16y8

 

What makes it so much more difficult on the DOHC? I've only had the pleasure of SOHC tampering with so far.

 

...I've done it more than once without any kind of special tool. The tool just keeps it from tightening the clearance while you're tightening the nut. It's an oiled assembly, so the torque values are extremely predictable - you can figure out how much it will tighten the tolerance while you torque down the nut, leave the clearance loose by roughly that amount, and then torque it down. Doing that, it should be roughly within spec.

Does the tool make it easier? Hell yes it does. Is it entirely 100% necessary? Nope.

 

I'm not driving a race car so I didn't need it to be within 2ip. The boxed end wrench way worked fine for me and that was 3rd miles ago.

 

I have a spare b18c1 head lying around look at what I circled they're about an inch and a half down in the head no box wrench in there that's why I said it's extremely hard.

 

Ok, In that case you are correct. You can not do the valves without that tool. when talking about the head vald and I have, your wrong. On the d16y8 you can use a box end wrench and a flat head like we have been saying.