1990 Integra turbo no start
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From: New Orleans, LA
1990 Acura Integra 5 speed
B20B turbo
Hondata s300
550cc injector
walbro 255 fuel pump
gm 3bar map
So I got my car street tuned last saturday and everything went fine. The car always starts up every time and ran like a champ. It got street tuned and felt great. I plan this to be a daily driver and its not meant for power. Just a nice commuter with a little power.
I want to fine tune some of the fuel map so I can put it in closed loop and use my wideband in closed loop. So I started the car up without a problem to let it warm up. 20 minutes go by and I turn it off and load the new map to the ecu and go to start the car but it doesn't fire up. It starts to fire up but doesn't. I loaded the tune from my tuner back on and still nothing. Both tunes were the same with the exception of a few fuel changes. Nothing that would prevent the car from starting.
Things I have changed with known working parts. No check engine lights
Main fuel relay (new from the store)
Ignitor from a distributor from my other engine
Coil from same distributor from above.
fuel pressure regulator changed from my b&m to a stock one with same result and same fuel pressure on the gauge at the filter is the same with both parts
Checked fuses
Fuel pump primes injectors and turns off after 2-3 seconds from turning car to on
The only thing I changed was the alternator b/c the other one went back. This one is new and my voltage is 14v at all times now. Battery is charged. Starter cranks over strong
The car will attempt to start right up but then just not finish cranking. Just rotates a few times and then tries to start up again. Pushing on the throttle makes it not even want to try and fire up. So I assume it's a fuel thing but the pump primes and I get fuel at the rail. I am seeing a map signal and tps response on my laptop with Smanager.
This is really frustrating. I'm going to check the wiring on the distributor to make sure it's all good.
The only things left to check are the ECU and the fuel pump. I don't feel like dropping the tank again unless I have to. I have another ECU S300 I can swap in and load the tune on but I'm not getting a check engine light at all so I don't think that's it.
Any help is appreciated.
B20B turbo
Hondata s300
550cc injector
walbro 255 fuel pump
gm 3bar map
So I got my car street tuned last saturday and everything went fine. The car always starts up every time and ran like a champ. It got street tuned and felt great. I plan this to be a daily driver and its not meant for power. Just a nice commuter with a little power.
I want to fine tune some of the fuel map so I can put it in closed loop and use my wideband in closed loop. So I started the car up without a problem to let it warm up. 20 minutes go by and I turn it off and load the new map to the ecu and go to start the car but it doesn't fire up. It starts to fire up but doesn't. I loaded the tune from my tuner back on and still nothing. Both tunes were the same with the exception of a few fuel changes. Nothing that would prevent the car from starting.
Things I have changed with known working parts. No check engine lights
Main fuel relay (new from the store)
Ignitor from a distributor from my other engine
Coil from same distributor from above.
fuel pressure regulator changed from my b&m to a stock one with same result and same fuel pressure on the gauge at the filter is the same with both parts
Checked fuses
Fuel pump primes injectors and turns off after 2-3 seconds from turning car to on
The only thing I changed was the alternator b/c the other one went back. This one is new and my voltage is 14v at all times now. Battery is charged. Starter cranks over strong
The car will attempt to start right up but then just not finish cranking. Just rotates a few times and then tries to start up again. Pushing on the throttle makes it not even want to try and fire up. So I assume it's a fuel thing but the pump primes and I get fuel at the rail. I am seeing a map signal and tps response on my laptop with Smanager.
This is really frustrating. I'm going to check the wiring on the distributor to make sure it's all good.
The only things left to check are the ECU and the fuel pump. I don't feel like dropping the tank again unless I have to. I have another ECU S300 I can swap in and load the tune on but I'm not getting a check engine light at all so I don't think that's it.
Any help is appreciated.
If you have fuel to the rail the pump is working, all you need to do is check fuel pressure.
If it is good, check for spark, [use an HEI spark tester and check all 4 cylinders.
If the spark is good, remove the spark plugs and let the cylinders "air out" over night, you may have "flooded" the cylinders, if you have fuel and engine is not starting, fuel is still entering the cylinders and can "flood" them and even wash the cylinder walls dropping compression. 94
If it is good, check for spark, [use an HEI spark tester and check all 4 cylinders.
If the spark is good, remove the spark plugs and let the cylinders "air out" over night, you may have "flooded" the cylinders, if you have fuel and engine is not starting, fuel is still entering the cylinders and can "flood" them and even wash the cylinder walls dropping compression. 94
Thread Starter
Honda-Tech Member
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From: New Orleans, LA
If you have fuel to the rail the pump is working, all you need to do is check fuel pressure.
If it is good, check for spark, [use an HEI spark tester and check all 4 cylinders.
If the spark is good, remove the spark plugs and let the cylinders "air out" over night, you may have "flooded" the cylinders, if you have fuel and engine is not starting, fuel is still entering the cylinders and can "flood" them and even wash the cylinder walls dropping compression. 94
If it is good, check for spark, [use an HEI spark tester and check all 4 cylinders.
If the spark is good, remove the spark plugs and let the cylinders "air out" over night, you may have "flooded" the cylinders, if you have fuel and engine is not starting, fuel is still entering the cylinders and can "flood" them and even wash the cylinder walls dropping compression. 94
I actually did pull the plugs first thing this morning before I tried starting it and they were all wet. So I left them out of the engine to air out like you said. I was also worried about flooding the motor when I saw they were still wet from the previous day. It also dawned on me that I didn't try a different distributor rotor wheel. I don't think I'm getting spark to any cylinders b/c all plugs were wet with fuel. I'm about to go swap it out with a new one I have and see how it goes. I really hope it's this works.
Thread Starter
Honda-Tech Member
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Joined: Nov 2008
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From: New Orleans, LA
Well it ended up being the tune for some reason. after checking that the plugs were firing with a ground. I was stumped I decided to put my old tune on and it fired right up. Put the new tune back on and it wouldn't fire up. So I copied the maps from the new tune and pasted it to my old one. So the ignition and fuel maps matched. Car fires up with no problem now. The file must have gone corrupt some how. Really weird but I'm glad I figured it out and it didn't cost me anything. Thanks for the help. Your post are always helpful.
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