Idle Problems with brand new engine
I have a GSR that has been completely rebuilt. It has JDM ITR cams, USDM ITR pistons and brand new seals and everything. I am running a Toda header and Skunk2 Intake Manifold. Rywire harness and chipped obd1 P75 ecu.
I have no secondary o2 sensor, no CKF sensor, no FITV, no EVAP. The ecu has been chipped for this setup by one of my local tuners.
Now that I have the car started I have some idle problems. The engine idles like at 2800 RPMS. When I first got the car started the header was glowing red and then I retarted the timing almost all the way and it stopped that problem. I cannot adjust the idle at the idle screw because it is adjusted all the way. There is also a small 300 RPM surge as well. When I unplug the IACV to time the car it only drops down to 1300. I cannot time the car because I cannot get it to the proper idle speed. Also I am having a problem calibrating the TPS. It is reading between 3.5-5 volts and I cannot get it to the proper .5 volts. I am reading the signal wire and not the power. I have a CEL code 0 for ECU as well.
Any ideas and where to start?
I have no secondary o2 sensor, no CKF sensor, no FITV, no EVAP. The ecu has been chipped for this setup by one of my local tuners.
Now that I have the car started I have some idle problems. The engine idles like at 2800 RPMS. When I first got the car started the header was glowing red and then I retarted the timing almost all the way and it stopped that problem. I cannot adjust the idle at the idle screw because it is adjusted all the way. There is also a small 300 RPM surge as well. When I unplug the IACV to time the car it only drops down to 1300. I cannot time the car because I cannot get it to the proper idle speed. Also I am having a problem calibrating the TPS. It is reading between 3.5-5 volts and I cannot get it to the proper .5 volts. I am reading the signal wire and not the power. I have a CEL code 0 for ECU as well.
Any ideas and where to start?
Code 0, isnt that a fault code for a bad ECU? try a new ecu.
High idle... vacuum leak.
glowing red manifold @ only 2800 rpms sounds pretty serious.
High idle... vacuum leak.
glowing red manifold @ only 2800 rpms sounds pretty serious.
no more glowing manifold. Got that figured out. Got the car timed and fixed the vacuum leak. Only problem is the idle is still a bit high like at 1200rpms. Code 0 would it be because of the map on the ECU is incorrect when flashed or the ecu is bad itself? Also would deleting the coolant lines to the IACV cause the slightly higher idle speed.
If you're getting a code for map it's either 3 or 5. I don't think code zero has anything to do with the map.
Pull the iat sensor and see if it's damaged...
Pull the iat sensor and see if it's damaged...
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I dont mean map sensor I mean the basemap on the ecu. It is throwing code 0 I jump the connector and the CEL doesnt blink. Thats the only code I get with the high idle and not allowing me to rev passed 3000rpms
Okay I'll try it again. Now would it be detrimental if I drove the car to an event that I have later this week. Or does code 0 hide other problems that could be occurring?
Well I could only get it as low as 3.5 volts at idle. Everything else is fine. It idles correctly and is timed now. I just have that CEL. When I jump the connector it doesnt blink. I mean that is how you do it right if the car is converted to obd1? I just need to be able to get it to this event.
It was the ecu. I out in a p30 ecu and no CEL and it revs passed 3000 and doesnt idle high. Do you guys think this can be used to drive 40 miles?
If you can NOT confirm the afr's with a wideband sensor I would recommend NOT driving the car. The last thing you want to do is wash down the cylinders from being too rich or burn up the motor being to lean.
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