D16Z6 - My first engine rebuild, do I have everything in order?
Ok, so after the whole oil pan gasket incident, https://honda-tech.com/forums/tech-misc-15/dark-spark-plug-causes-3174823/ I began gathering a parts list. This is my first engine rebuild, however I will be doing this at school where I have access to just about any tool I can think of and its brother. As well as our instructor who's been a mechanic for 40 some years. I've done a decent amount of research before hand I just want to make sure all my ducks are in a row before I just dive into tearing everything apart. Im planning to go OEM as much as possible, unless there is a better aftermarket replacement that provides better longevity. I'm fairly certain that I might have a bent valve so I plan to pull all the valves out and inspect them, and replace as needed. On top of replacing the usual parts: gaskets, main bearings, seals, etc. Our shop is literally right next door to the welding/industrial shop, and Im going to ask tomorrow if they could hone my crank when I get it out. I also plan to get the head and block hot tanked and cleaned up all nice and purty. As far as putting everything back together, we have access to Alldata and I plan on picking up a HELMS manual on top of that. Is there anything I missed? Anything I need to really watch for while I'm taking everything apart? I figure if there's any little things to watch for or notice I figured the best place to ask was on here. I plan to start my project right after we return from Christmas break. I'll start a thread with plenty of pics during said project. If I missed anything here please let me know. Thanks guys.
Here's a copy of my build sheet if you wanna use it as a checklist for things. I constantly refer to it and change/add things as I go. Keeps me on track
B20V Build
Bottom end
*Machine work done by DG machine
-bore (84.5mm), balance rotating assembly (flywheel, PP, pistons, rods, crank),check line bore, press rod bolts and re-round
*84.55mm ITR style Pistons- $190
*84.5mm B20 Block
*LS Crank-89mm-DONE
*LS rods 137mm-DONE
* ARP Rod Bolts (ARP-208-6401) - $75
*ARP Head Studs - ARP 208-4303- $100
*TypeR/GSR OEM Oil pump-$100
*ACL Race bearings-$100
Cylinder Head
*B16 head- 3 angle valve job, new seals/guides, stock port, resurface
*Skunk2 Alpha Header- $397
*Rocket Motorsports M22X cams- DONE
*Rocket Motorsports or Super-tech Valve train (Dual spring & Ti retainers)-$ 300
*JG Cam Gears-DONE
*ITR Intake manifold 96+ spec- DONE
*Speedfactory Thermal Intake Manifold Gasket-$35
*Torque Solutions Thermal TB Gasket-$21
*Omni-power 68mm TB-$90
*Full Race VTEC conversion kit- $99
*BK7RE plugs-DONE
*NGK Blue Spark plug wires-$43
*Gates High Tension Racing timing belt/ TypeR 22T OEM Water Pump /Type R tensioner $140
*3” Short Ram w/ Velocity Stack and Filter- $80
Fuel
*Injectors -K-Tuned Denso RDX 410cc-DONE
* Plug/clips & adapters- $80
*ITR Fuel Rail & FPR-DONE
*Walbro 255-$90
Drivetrain
*S4C tranny w/ LSD-DONE
*Fidanza stage 1 racing clutch/PP -$249
*Fidanza 8lb flywheel-$170
*ARP flywheel bolts-$70
MISC
*Hasport Mounts-$280
Axles, Shift linkage w/ ES bushings, starter, alternator, silicone hose kit, plug wire cover, dizzy, Alt belt
PCV breathers and catch can
B20V Build
Bottom end
*Machine work done by DG machine
-bore (84.5mm), balance rotating assembly (flywheel, PP, pistons, rods, crank),check line bore, press rod bolts and re-round
*84.55mm ITR style Pistons- $190
*84.5mm B20 Block
*LS Crank-89mm-DONE
*LS rods 137mm-DONE
* ARP Rod Bolts (ARP-208-6401) - $75
*ARP Head Studs - ARP 208-4303- $100
*TypeR/GSR OEM Oil pump-$100
*ACL Race bearings-$100
Cylinder Head
*B16 head- 3 angle valve job, new seals/guides, stock port, resurface
*Skunk2 Alpha Header- $397
*Rocket Motorsports M22X cams- DONE
*Rocket Motorsports or Super-tech Valve train (Dual spring & Ti retainers)-$ 300
*JG Cam Gears-DONE
*ITR Intake manifold 96+ spec- DONE
*Speedfactory Thermal Intake Manifold Gasket-$35
*Torque Solutions Thermal TB Gasket-$21
*Omni-power 68mm TB-$90
*Full Race VTEC conversion kit- $99
*BK7RE plugs-DONE
*NGK Blue Spark plug wires-$43
*Gates High Tension Racing timing belt/ TypeR 22T OEM Water Pump /Type R tensioner $140
*3” Short Ram w/ Velocity Stack and Filter- $80
Fuel
*Injectors -K-Tuned Denso RDX 410cc-DONE
* Plug/clips & adapters- $80
*ITR Fuel Rail & FPR-DONE
*Walbro 255-$90
Drivetrain
*S4C tranny w/ LSD-DONE
*Fidanza stage 1 racing clutch/PP -$249
*Fidanza 8lb flywheel-$170
*ARP flywheel bolts-$70
MISC
*Hasport Mounts-$280
Axles, Shift linkage w/ ES bushings, starter, alternator, silicone hose kit, plug wire cover, dizzy, Alt belt
PCV breathers and catch can
Awesome, That's definitely a huge help, Ill definitely set up a list like that. fingers crossed, everything goes smoothly.
yea, I have a pretty good idea on how, I've been working with cars in general since about 15, I've done just about everything but rebuild a motor or transmission. I don't think it should be too bad I just have to make sure I put everything back together correctly and with the right torque.
So I had someone tell me today if i Replace the piston rings, I have to have the block honed, is this true? If so I'm going to have to find someone to do it, I'm still building my list of things to do and this would definitely be a big thing to add to that list. Thanks all
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Ok thanks, I'll look up a few numbers and see if I can't find someone to hone the block. based on the compression tests my instructor said I probably had bad rings in cylinder 1, so all those rings will be getting replaced the pistons might be getting replaced as well, thanks for the help. I can't wait to start getting my hands Dorty on this build.
Don't just replace the cyl1 rings, replace all four sets of piston rings. They're cheap, and if you don't, you will NEVER get a good seal on the cylinders with the old rings. While you have it apart, replace your bearings, period. They aren't something a smart engine builder reuses, ever.
ok, yea I figured I would replace all four sets of rings, main bearings are a must, what about connecting rods? Those should be ok as long as far as being re used correct? Also when it comes to doing the head. When I replace valves, what all parts can be re used or need to be replaced? I have heard that spring retainers are usually replaced but I wasn't sure if anything else needed to be replaced as well.
As long as you didn't spin a bearing, you can keep your rods. You don't need to replace your springs or retainers, but you should replace your seals.
Ok, awesome I can't wait to get started. The more I learn the more eager to start I become, we've been going deeper in depth at school and starting after Christmas break we can have long term projects that we are able to work on. I may only be 19, but I'm finding out real quick I have a passion for working on cars, and as I learn my addiction grows. Whether its turning wrenches or driving fast I could do it all day and night. I'll be posting a thread together when I start the rebuild lots of pics the whole way, if nothing else it will hopefully be something others can refer to in the future.
Ok, its been a while since I've posted on this thread, but the 20th is when my big check is coming in and it will be time to start buying parts. On top of the motor rebuild I'm doing a couple misc things that desperately need done to the car. So far that additional list contains: trailing arms bushings, stabilizer bar bushings, replacing a wheel stud on the front left wheel and replacing the wheel bearing while everything is off, tie rods inners and outers, end link bushings, I plan on installing a megan racing short throw shifter, and of course while everything is apart its all getting cleaned from engine bay to the trunk everything is getting detailed. Im buying everything like I said the 20th, and the project will start as soon as we are back from christmas break which I believe is the week following the first. Ill have plenty of pictures and hopefully will have a couple good guides. Its going to be a long road but Ive never been more excited to take on a project. Fingers crossed it all goes well.
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